It’s a Stereo Integrity SHS24 the order is is wrong it’s $2500 but they don’t make them anymore. I read a old post Nick at resonix put up back in 2017 but I got confused on the Matter because it has the Fs on here but not the Sd so I couldn’t figure that out to do the rest.
I need to know the square ft for the box to be made according to the thread I’ll link it Nick at resonix wrote I can do up to 40% reduction to not lose sound quality. I’d like to get it down to possibly 20hz30hz a yes I know that’s ridiculous low for a Tline box but if someone could give me the sqft of 20hz and 30hx with the 30%40% box reduction with out losing sound quality I would appreciate both numbers.
I have about maybe a total of 28ft to play with maybe 30sqft in my hatch doing a wall Tline. Is my goal over a 4th order. I was told this box can do sealed at 7 cubes sealed by Nick at stereo integrity. I was originally gonna do a 2:1 4th order but decided to do this Instead if possible for space.
DESIGNING YOUR TLINE
This will be a quick and simple primer on how to design a consistent dimension ¼ wave tline. There are a variety of different ways to build tlines but this will be an explanation of what has been, for me, the easiest method. For the example, we'll use a single, hypothetical 15' driver.
First thing we need from our sub is Sd or, usable piston area. To find that we need the diameter of the driver, which is measured from the apex (center) of the surround on one side of the driver to the same point on the opposite side. For most car audio 15s, that measurement is 12.75".
Then we take that measurement and half it: 12.75 ÷ 2 = 6.375
Now apply the formula πR² to that number: 3.14 * 6.375  6.375 = 127.6
For our purpose, that number can simply be rounded to 127in².
Sd will be out line area. Line area is what would be called port area in a conventional vented enclosure but since our box is nothing but one long port or, line... it's called line area. This number can be modified for a couple of different reasons. First off, if your design is strictly for sound quality, I'd leave the line area equal to Sd but if you need to save space or you want a bit more of an SPL oriented box you can reduce that number by up to 40% with no serious affects on sound quality. What you will lose, in my experience, is performance on the top end of the sub bass region (60100Hz).
But, that loss is minimal, especially in a vehicle cabin. Aside from the aforementioned benefits, reducing line area also seems to increase cone control, which is really important for us bassheads since we tend to abuse our subs on a daily basis. smile emoticon
Next we have to calculate the tuning frequency of the line. For that you need to know the speed of sound in feet. That varies with elevation and other factors but for my area and conditions it's usually 1130 feet per second so, that's what we'll use.
You can find it for your area if you like but for the purposes of what we're doing there is no need of that much accuracy. We'll tune our line at 30Hz, which is the most common tuning I use for daily builds. The formula is speed of sound ÷ tuning ÷ 4. This formula tells us the length of a sound wave at the tuning frequency we chose and then we take ¼ of that length for out box... hence ¼ wave transmission line.
For our box: 1130 ÷ 30 ÷ 4 = 9.41'
To convert that to inches: 9.41 * 12 = 112.92 or, round it to 113".
Now that the easy part is over we have to figure out a way to contort our 9' long square tube around and into the trunk or back seat of a vehicle. That's where line area reductions become pretty handy because even though the line won't get any shorter, its bulk will be lessened. If you have a large footprint but not a lot of height, I would recommend a snail shell styled box with the sub(s) in the center facing upward and the line terminus (port) facing out the side or rear, as in a trunk. If you have a wide but narrow space for the box, like the back seat of a truck or behind the back seat of a truck, a folded design with sub and terminus up works pretty good. Either way you're going to have some 90° and/or 180° turns to make and below I'll explain how I calculate the length of those turns.
The formula for circumference is πD or 3.14 * diameter.
For our box we'll assume the line dimension is 14" wide by 9" tall. I arrive at that measurement by dividing our needed line area (127in²) by the mounting diameter of our typical 15" driver (14") for a height of 9". Knowing that the line is 9" tall is important because that's the number we'll use to measure the length of our bends. Next we'll ad the thickness of our construction material to that number, which is normally 3/4" so... 9.75 is the diameter of our radius bends.
Now apply the formula to find the length of any 90° or 180° bends.... 9.75 * 3.14 = 30.615 or rounded to 30.6. That's the circumference of our radius.
For 180° bends, divide that by 2 for: 15.3".
For 90° bends divide by 4 for: 7.65"
So now all you have to do is draw the line out and enter those numbers into any bends you have and then add them all up (along with the straight lines) to get the total length of your line. For a simple box I normally take my two most critical measurements and then start arranging my lines and bends through the center point of the line height until I find an arrangement that'll work.
Lastly, when figuring wave guides (45°s) for the bends, just measure from the pivot point of the radius at a 45° angle out to the desired line height and then measure across the line 90° perpendicular to get the width of your wave guide.
I need to know the square ft for the box to be made according to the thread I’ll link it Nick at resonix wrote I can do up to 40% reduction to not lose sound quality. I’d like to get it down to possibly 20hz30hz a yes I know that’s ridiculous low for a Tline box but if someone could give me the sqft of 20hz and 30hx with the 30%40% box reduction with out losing sound quality I would appreciate both numbers.
I have about maybe a total of 28ft to play with maybe 30sqft in my hatch doing a wall Tline. Is my goal over a 4th order. I was told this box can do sealed at 7 cubes sealed by Nick at stereo integrity. I was originally gonna do a 2:1 4th order but decided to do this Instead if possible for space.
School me on TLine
So I have always wanted to experiment with building a Tline box but really don't know much about them other than they can be loud. I have this ID8v3 D4 I'd like to experiment with. In someones post they were building to the speakers Fs and people chimed in to note that it wasn't the parameter...
www.diymobileaudio.com
DESIGNING YOUR TLINE
This will be a quick and simple primer on how to design a consistent dimension ¼ wave tline. There are a variety of different ways to build tlines but this will be an explanation of what has been, for me, the easiest method. For the example, we'll use a single, hypothetical 15' driver.
First thing we need from our sub is Sd or, usable piston area. To find that we need the diameter of the driver, which is measured from the apex (center) of the surround on one side of the driver to the same point on the opposite side. For most car audio 15s, that measurement is 12.75".
Then we take that measurement and half it: 12.75 ÷ 2 = 6.375
Now apply the formula πR² to that number: 3.14 * 6.375  6.375 = 127.6
For our purpose, that number can simply be rounded to 127in².
Sd will be out line area. Line area is what would be called port area in a conventional vented enclosure but since our box is nothing but one long port or, line... it's called line area. This number can be modified for a couple of different reasons. First off, if your design is strictly for sound quality, I'd leave the line area equal to Sd but if you need to save space or you want a bit more of an SPL oriented box you can reduce that number by up to 40% with no serious affects on sound quality. What you will lose, in my experience, is performance on the top end of the sub bass region (60100Hz).
But, that loss is minimal, especially in a vehicle cabin. Aside from the aforementioned benefits, reducing line area also seems to increase cone control, which is really important for us bassheads since we tend to abuse our subs on a daily basis. smile emoticon
Next we have to calculate the tuning frequency of the line. For that you need to know the speed of sound in feet. That varies with elevation and other factors but for my area and conditions it's usually 1130 feet per second so, that's what we'll use.
You can find it for your area if you like but for the purposes of what we're doing there is no need of that much accuracy. We'll tune our line at 30Hz, which is the most common tuning I use for daily builds. The formula is speed of sound ÷ tuning ÷ 4. This formula tells us the length of a sound wave at the tuning frequency we chose and then we take ¼ of that length for out box... hence ¼ wave transmission line.
For our box: 1130 ÷ 30 ÷ 4 = 9.41'
To convert that to inches: 9.41 * 12 = 112.92 or, round it to 113".
Now that the easy part is over we have to figure out a way to contort our 9' long square tube around and into the trunk or back seat of a vehicle. That's where line area reductions become pretty handy because even though the line won't get any shorter, its bulk will be lessened. If you have a large footprint but not a lot of height, I would recommend a snail shell styled box with the sub(s) in the center facing upward and the line terminus (port) facing out the side or rear, as in a trunk. If you have a wide but narrow space for the box, like the back seat of a truck or behind the back seat of a truck, a folded design with sub and terminus up works pretty good. Either way you're going to have some 90° and/or 180° turns to make and below I'll explain how I calculate the length of those turns.
The formula for circumference is πD or 3.14 * diameter.
For our box we'll assume the line dimension is 14" wide by 9" tall. I arrive at that measurement by dividing our needed line area (127in²) by the mounting diameter of our typical 15" driver (14") for a height of 9". Knowing that the line is 9" tall is important because that's the number we'll use to measure the length of our bends. Next we'll ad the thickness of our construction material to that number, which is normally 3/4" so... 9.75 is the diameter of our radius bends.
Now apply the formula to find the length of any 90° or 180° bends.... 9.75 * 3.14 = 30.615 or rounded to 30.6. That's the circumference of our radius.
For 180° bends, divide that by 2 for: 15.3".
For 90° bends divide by 4 for: 7.65"
So now all you have to do is draw the line out and enter those numbers into any bends you have and then add them all up (along with the straight lines) to get the total length of your line. For a simple box I normally take my two most critical measurements and then start arranging my lines and bends through the center point of the line height until I find an arrangement that'll work.
Lastly, when figuring wave guides (45°s) for the bends, just measure from the pivot point of the radius at a 45° angle out to the desired line height and then measure across the line 90° perpendicular to get the width of your wave guide.
Specs  
Manufacturer  Stereo Integrity 
Driver Size  24" 
Weight  115 lbs 
Specified Xmax  47 mm 
Gap Height  50 mm 
Spider Diameter  10 in 
Cost  $1500 
Voice Coil  
Coil Type  Overhung 
Wire Type  Flat Wire 
Wire Element  Copper 
Aprox. Coil Diameter  4 in 
Number of Layers  4 
Winding Width  100 mm (3.94) in 
Installation Specs  
diameter  24.5 in 
cutout  22.5 in 
boltDiam  23.5 in 
mountingDepth  16.5 in 
TS Parameters  
Qts  0.348 
Qes  0.382 
Qms  3.926 
Fs  23.3 Hz 
Res  3.153 Ω 
Le  4.08 mH 
Vas  237.9 liters 
Mms  1257.56 g 
Cms  37 μm/N 
BL  38.99 Tm 
BL2/Res  482 N2/Watt 
L/R Time Constant  1.294 miliseconds 
SplSens  90.9 
Measured Complex Inductance Parameters  
Re'  3.153 Ω 
Leb  0.65 mH 
Le  34.279 mH 
Rss  84.445 Ω 
Ke  0.59 sH
