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No dynamat was used in that install. the volvo was just getting a face lift for the speakers and head unit.
I wasn't talking about the volvo, I was talking about whatever vehicle I saw that had dynamat covering the whole thing. I was more concerned with the air leaks in the baffle in the picture, that would be bad, speaking from first hand experience.
 

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Thought you might have a perspective on this...I have a 2004 Land Cruiser and am about to embark on a replacement of all audio components and speakers except for the head unit as it is integrated with the nav system.

I have been told by someone that there is no way to upgrade the system as you cannot replace or bypass the factory amp because of its importance to the integrated system. It was my understanding that I could use a factory integration unit along with a new amp just fine, but I don't want to go out and buy everything if that's not the case. There does not appear to be a way to bypass the factory amp (best as I could tell from my research) and I don't want to remove it if doing so is going to shut down my integrated nav system.

Does you happen to have a perspective on 1) if what I was told about not being able to upgrade the system is actually true, and 2) if false, you have any experience with this or similar installs?

Appreciate your feedback.
Um, you need to leave the factory amp in there, IIRC. I did one of those where we added a Pioneer flip out nav (Avic-N5, IIRC, it was a while ago).
The volume, balance and fade are controlled at the amp. I fed the outputs of the N5 into the factory amp instead of the factory radio, but you still had to use the factory radio to control balance, and fade. I set the factory volume at a decent level and then you could use the volume on the N5 for the most part...I would have liked to do more, but all they wanted was a Navi.
We had to build a dash piece for it too...I had to relocate the factory part of the head unit (the part with the knobs) into the read side panel...IIRC there was a pocket on the right side by the rear seat. I put it in there for adjustments. He wanted to keep the factory DVD changer and rear overhead.
We also set it up so he could do video in motion for the factory screen.
It was a pain in the butt, because there is NO wasted space in those trucks....very hard to find locations for things when the customer still uses the third row seats sometimes, and folds them when he hauls his dogs.

This was 4 years or so ago, back before BitOnes and 360.2's and Cleansweeps...

Jay
 

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Hey there, I am newly subscribed to the forums but have been a frequent viewer for a while now. I have a few quickie questions for you if you don't mind. I'm pretty good with wiring and all but I am tied in a knot this time.

I just bought an Alpine W900 and my question is do I only need to hook up the main wiring harness and the GPS antenna? I ask this because there is a TON of stuff on the back of this thing but I was guessing that its for all of the available extras. Do I need to mess with the multiple RCAs and A/Vs?

I thank you and everybody for any help with this thing
 

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It's a shame that you're 4 hours from me.
I have boxes of equipment that are on order, or in my dining room that will need to be installed. And I would love to learn how to do it properly.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I use a radio shack butane soldering torch for 20 bucks you can not beat it. Also weller makes nice circuit board solder very thin stuff usually comes in a plastic tube works very well.

Tips:

Start off by joining your wires together in a twisting motion so it looks like one constant wire not twisted together coming to a pint. After getting them tight together heat up your gun. Than apply a small about of solder to the tip of the gun than flick it off. This gives the tip a cleaner start for the solder. Than apply a small amount to the tip again and hold to the wires. Than on the wires apply solder.
 

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I think they are still restoring the forum from the mod that is abusing his authority.

If you could gladiator post the emails here so other people know what I said. If you do not mind.
 

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I think they are still restoring the forum from the mod that is abusing his authority.

If you could gladiator post the emails here so other people know what I said. If you do not mind.
Sure.

Original Question - How to get 4 channels out of the harness going into the DSP Amplifier in an E39(97-03 BMW 5 Series), specifically 540i.
What followed

Ok here is where I myself got confused about. The DSP amp is all digital signals. The digital signal comes into the black amp in the trunk and goes out to multiple channels for the speakers.

Here is what you need to do. Take the black amp out. After that disconnect of reconnect the neg battery terminal and recommend. This will reset the factory system to think it is a base system. At this point the harness the DSP was hooked up to is now sending out 4 channels of low pass output.

You are going to basically cut the ends of your new rca cables off and solder them to certain wires in that harness than just plug them into your amps. You might need a Y splitter of use the line output of your new amp "like I did to the sub amp"

These links may help more. If you need more help please ask. Now some wires on that harness you need to actually add wires to some of the blank spots.

Re: 2001 BMW 740 audio upgrade help (Re: 2001 BMW 740 audio upgrade help)
Thanks man!!
I'll go take some pics tomorrow and post before I do any cutting/splicing.

1. Will the Metra harness fit into the harness going into the DSP amp thereby preventing cutting of stock wires?? Link - Metra 71-9003 (met-719003) - Wiring Harnesses - Sonic Electronix (Metra 71-9003 (met-719003) - Wiring Harnesses - Sonic Electronix)

2. What do you think about RCA -> AudioControl Line Driver(in place of LOC) -> Amp?

3. Man am I missing something coz that forum you posted a link to is a PITA to navigate, I couldn't find search either. Hats off extracting info from there. Informative but I have a migraine now :sick:
Dude trust me I hat that forum as much as you do for nav around. But the helped me out there. That harness adapter may but for me I had to get that pull 2 wire "any of them" out of the harness stick them in the stock harness in the blanks that needed wires than wire up the rcas to them. Unless yours is different I do not think that is going to help you just plug and play. I do not see why you would need a audiocontrol in this place you will already have LOC when you do this and they are high quality. Unless you are looking for more control than I suppose you could use that.
 
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