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Discussion Starter #1
Finally got the equipment and time to re-install system since theft. The equipment is the same that I've always used:
Kicker ZX460 and Kicker ZR240

Running Kicker Resolution (polys) 4in components with TWX module doing processing on the 460 and 2 10" Comps off the 240.

Got everything connected, turned on ignition and amps powered up but no sound. Turned off and rewired speakers, turned back on and now no power!!! Everytime I did any connections I unplugged the inline fuse. Very frustrated.

Unhooked everything, checked all fuses (nothing wrong there) took bottom plate off and no visible evidence of damage. In fact the sub amp wasnt even connected to speakers and same issue. Power is going into amps, but they arent turning on!!!!


I had a similar issue with same model amps years ago in another car but just started working....I'm just getting pretty freaking pissed now. Havent had audio in car for almost a year and now this!
I know I rambled but if anyone has any ideas that would be great!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ok, so even though i tested the power with volt meter, i never checked the remote.....guess what. nothing at the remote. Pulled radio and connection is good, sooooo?

At least a new variable narrowed down....now what to do?
 

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if you have no voltage at the remote wire on the amplifier and it is connected to the HU, the only two things.

1) the wire has a break in it or bad connector
2) the HU remote voltage is bad.
 

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What style fuse are you using? On more than one install I've done for customers I found defective AGU style (large glass fuses). The fuse looks perfect visually, and voltage will show up at the amp but there was a loose internal connection in the fuse. What had happened in my case was the solder that actually held the fuse element inside the glass tube was badly soldered. There's a small puddle of solder in each endcap of the glass fuses. One of these was poorly soldered, and loose. This poor connection allowed voltage to pass so your meter could read it, but sufficient current would not pass.
 

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What style fuse are you using? On more than one install I've done for customers I found defective AGU style (large glass fuses). The fuse looks perfect visually, and voltage will show up at the amp but there was a loose internal connection in the fuse. What had happened in my case was the solder that actually held the fuse element inside the glass tube was badly soldered. There's a small puddle of solder in each endcap of the glass fuses. One of these was poorly soldered, and loose. This poor connection allowed voltage to pass so your meter could read it, but sufficient current would not pass.
that happens if you are operating near the fuse rating on those too. my main fuse used to be a 50A AGU. about once a year i had to replace it for that same reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, so problem fixed! I'm just going to blame this on Sony because I cant believe after the 40 or so HU i have installed that I did this. Heres a hint.....when the source is on fm/am the amps turn on!
 

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Ok, so problem fixed! I'm just going to blame this on Sony because I cant believe after the 40 or so HU i have installed that I did this. Heres a hint.....when the source is on fm/am the amps turn on!
So ya had it connected to the antenna power and not the remote turn on.

I can one up that... Dude that I work with was doing fresh wiring for a radio in an old Toyota truck, he was looking for a constant hot wire and found one, assumed it was a battery wire. Didn't realize that he hooked into the pin switch on his door for the dome light and the radio only worked with the door open LOL.
 

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So ya had it connected to the antenna power and not the remote turn on.

I can one up that... Dude that I work with was doing fresh wiring for a radio in an old Toyota truck, he was looking for a constant hot wire and found one, assumed it was a battery wire. Didn't realize that he hooked into the pin switch on his door for the dome light and the radio only worked with the door open LOL.
That is tremendous!
 

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Ive had that remote wire problem happen to me on quite a few Sony head units they have a serious issue with them sometimes they somehow short internally or something Ive had them work fine for a while then just stop all of a sudden so i switched to pioneers and haven't had a problem with any of theirs and Ive had quite a few of both and almost every Sony deck had a problem of some sort with the remote wire
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well Andy was correct, so everything was working great. Then left to go on an hour road trip. Wasn't on interstate 5 min then both amps went out again! Rewired as before but zr240 won't come back! This sucks. Powers up the protect lights up and then shuts down!
 

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check the remote wire with a dmm i can almost guarantee its b+ for a few seconds then somehow turns b- its happened to every sony deck i have ever had run a wire from the battery or fuse box and put a switch on it use a 10a fuse and problem will be solved just remember to shut the switch down when the radio is off or you will have a dead battery in the morning i like the light up switches and always mount them in a spot where i can see the light so i remember to shut it down when i get out of the whip
 
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