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Hello, I have a lot of questions so bare with me as I'm still trying to learn more in-depth info on this fun hobby.

I have a 2008 Lexus IS250, just base stock system. I believe the fronts fit 6 1/2 or 6 3/4 not 100% sure, and I also believe the rear doors are the same.

For a while now I was planning to get good component speakers for the front, and just decent speakers for the back (I didn't want the rear passengers to hear a ****ty sound system but if this isn't the case at all please enlighten me).

My initial setup was going to be:
Front - Alpine SPX-17 Pro
Rear - Alpine SPR-60C (they just updated the type-r and type-s speakers)
Amp - Alpine PDX-F4
Sub - Alpine SWR-1243D (newly refreshed model)
Sub Amp - Alpine MRX-M50 (like the M500 but with PDX features and a better frequency response)


I picked all Alpine because they seem to me like a legit company that makes good high quality products for the price. I'm not looking for some competition setup.

I chose the SPX-17 Pro because it is top of the line for Alpine and had great reviews and I've read over and over the front speakers are where money should be spent though some say mid-bass is lacking. Would it really be noticeable where I'll be disappointed given I'll have a sub? My IS250 has a pretty small cabin for a 4door sedan.

I chose the SPR-60C for the rears because they can handle 100w RMS like the SPX-17Pros and the PDX-F4 does 100w RMS x 4 @ 4 ohms


Now I just need to clear some questions I can't figure out.


Would I have just as good or better listening experience if I just did the fronts and the sub in the trunk? Would the rear passengers experience a good listening experience like the front is?
If not, and you do recommend rear speakers, if I put a more budget speakers in the rear, would it degrade the sound quality of the SPX-17 Pros in the front?


As for my sub, I decided to go with the Alpine Type-R 12" mainly because it was just redesigned and they made it louder/cleaner/deeper than before. I've read the SQ is comparable to a JL W6. I also noticed it produces a lower frequency response than the Alpine Type-X subwoofers.. which I can't understand why.

Would this sub match well with the SPX-17Pros? I'll custom make the exact box the owners manual recommends.


I have large confusion with which amp would be best for powering my speakers, whether just the fronts or the fronts/rears if that will sound better.

Lastly, I noticed Alpine updated their Type-R/Type-S subwoofers and speakers. I think the Alpine Type-X speakers/subwoofers haven't been refreshed in years. Are there any rumors there will be in the near future? If so, I would rather wait an extra 2 months.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I know there's alot of stupid questions but I just need some honest help. :)
 

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It sounds like you are on the right track with the decisions you have made so far.

You could come up with some potentially better drivers for the front, but unless you have the time to listen to all kinds of different setups, you will be hard pressed to come up with a educated reason why to pick anything other that what is already on your list. If you plan on installing everything as drop in, into the stock locations...I would say go for it. That is a reasonable sufficient amount of power, and if you are worried about the rears pulling the image back, or causing havoc with the front, use the Fader...

If you are planning to use the stock head unit, then make sure that you are pulling the subwoofer signal from the front channels, that way if you fade to the front you do not lose the signal to the subwoofer.
 

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You truly hear 80-90% of the music up front, So focus on your front stage. It is your choice if you want to have "rear fill" or not. To me, I do not sit back there when I drive So I could care less. Some people like "rear fill." If you are on a budget, forget about it. It's all on you to decide:)

As far as amplifying your speakers, again, focus on your front stage. You will not get full potential out of your speakers, especially component speakers if you run them off your H.U. Most H.U.'s only put out 18-22 RMS, if. Again, you can go ahead and amplify your rear speakers if you choose to replace them, but it's all a matter of how much you want to spend and what you prefer.

As far as jumping into choosing a set of speakers, you should ask yourself a few questions. These questions that I have listed below are mainly for you component speakers up front.

1.) What is your budget?
2.) Where will you be mounting/imaging your component speakers. Where will your mid-woofers be mounted, and where will your tweeters be mounted? Will they be in stock locations? If so, where are your stock locations. What kind of parimeters do we have to work with here, as far as depth, diameter, etc. Will your mid-woofers and tweeters be posionted "off" or "On-Axis" or a combination of both?

Off-Axis: Typically flush mounted where speakers face straight across the cabin at eachother.

On Axis: Speakers will be imaged directly at you

What kind of Tweeter do you prefer? Do you like the soft domes or hard domes? Hard domes typically sound better below the waist while soft domes typically sound better above the waist.

Soft Domes: Provide a "smoother" sound at the cost of the "rainbow effect."

Hard Domes: Provide great Detail, but often are more "edgy."

(keep in mind that this is all subjective)


What type of Cone Material do you prefer? I believe there is a comparison between cone materials on this forum. I will try and dig up the thread if I can find it. There's many types including paper>poly, aluminum, etc.




Well I hope that is enough to get you started, ask yourself those questions and post another reply. Maybe we can get into going with Raw Drivers? And save yourself some money.
Please don't confuse the guy......less is more when you are new to car audio
 

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I'd just do the front stage and forget about the rear speakers.

Can't comment about your speaker choices but if you're just planning on replacing the drivers and use the factory system signal - it's probably not going to sound better. Different & slightly louder, yes probably so.

I replaced the midbass in the doors of my 350 and ran them off the factory signal for a while. A little louder and noticably more bass output (likely due to improved driver efficiency), but it was boomy as **** and actually sounded worse in my opinion.

The factory signal is heavily stepped on by DSP, so plan on adding a signal processor if you want to get the most out of your new drivers.

The IS has 6.5s front & back, BTW
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What signal processor would you guys recommend?

Not including the signal processor my budget is about $1000-1400 on the speakers/amps/sub.

I want tweeters that will be on axis.


Am I missing anything else?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Let's Re-Evaluate.

What is your set-up going to be again?



and, do you plan on using your OEM Head Unit, or will you be swapping it out with an aftermarket one?

Looks like your fond of Alpine? May I suggest an Alpine H.U. matched with Alpine Imprint
I plan on using the OEM headunit/nav. I think an aftermarket alpine headunit would look silly.

I just want great quality speakers in the front 6.5" and decent speakers in the rear, which can also house 6.5". The only reason I wouldn't add speakers in the rear is if the lower quality rear speakers (type-r) will degrade the overall sound quality in the car ( plan to have the fronts type-x pros). I'm afraid if I only have speakers in the front, it will only sound amazing for the front passengers where I want the whole car to sound amazing.

I'll also have a single alpine SWR-1243D in a custom box that is made to the exact specifications alpine recommends for a ported box for that particular sub.
 

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What signal processor would you guys recommend?
I am currently using the Bit One in my Lex, works well with the OEM system and has lots of tuning options. It's spendy at retail, but you can find good deals on used ones in the classifieds here.

For less, you could get the new Bit Ten, which has much of the same functionality as the Bit One, but with fewer outputs you'd probably have to run some of your drivers passively through their crossovers.

I have also tried the MS8. It doesn't play nicely if you have the factory NAV, but from my understanding it works well if you have the base non-Nav system and gives you true rear fill processing too. MS8's can be found fairly cheaply on here or new.

Maybe the cheapest processor option is the JL Cleansweep, which will clean up the factory signal but won't offer any tuning options.

Where do you plan to mount your tweeters on-axis?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am currently using the Bit One in my Lex, works well with the OEM system and has lots of tuning options. It's spendy at retail, but you can find good deals on used ones in the classifieds here.

For less, you could get the new Bit Ten, which has much of the same functionality as the Bit One, but with fewer outputs you'd probably have to run some of your drivers passively through their crossovers.

I have also tried the MS8. It doesn't play nicely if you have the factory NAV, but from my understanding it works well if you have the base non-Nav system and gives you true rear fill processing too. MS8's can be found fairly cheaply on here or new.

Maybe the cheapest processor option is the JL Cleansweep, which will clean up the factory signal but won't offer any tuning options.

Where do you plan to mount your tweeters on-axis?
Where should I mount my tweeters?
 

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I would mount tweets on the apillar, 90% of them are designed to have excellent off axis response as well.
Cheap processor that has great features is the bit.10
The 360.3 won't be out anytime soon.
if u are not to experienced in tuning and want ease of install thr ms8 is the best choice.
 

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I assume you meant to buy SPR-60 for the rear fill, not SPR-60C (60C is the component version). It's in general recommended simply to turn off the rear speakers, although some people have experimented with various forms of DSP to make them blend with the fronts. I think it's better to just turn off the rear speakers with fader function on the head unit. If you want to have rear speakers only to occasionally entertain your passengers, just leave the factory speakers in place. Also if you use an after market stereo, you could run rear speakers off that stereo's amplifier in in order not to waste amplifier channels on them. In that case, it's recommended that you install some kind of high sensitivity coaxial speakers in the rear. The new Morel Maximos or the new HAT Mirus would work running on head unit power better than SPR-60.

The SPX-PRO speakers are considered to be a little overpriced speakers, considered for what you get. Their tweeters and crossovers are considered to be some of the best in their class, but their mid bass is lacking a little in the bass area. However, their crossover is bi-amp capable. This means that you can use separate amp channels to drive the tweeter and the woofer, being able to match their outputs better for your install. I would go with these pros if I was ready to replace their mid woofers with something else, should I not like them, running in bi-amp mode.

Or you could also buy and install the new HAT Unity speakers. They combine the woofers of the highly regarded HAT Imagine speakers with the crossover and tweeters of even more respetable HAT Clarus speakers. Their MSRP is around $350, so their price is about the same as Alpine SPX PROs.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I assume you meant to buy SPR-60 for the rear fill, not SPR-60C (60C is the component version). It's in general recommended simply to turn off the rear speakers, although some people have experimented with various forms of DSP to make them blend with the fronts. I think it's better to just turn off the rear speakers with fader function on the head unit. If you want to have rear speakers only to occasionally entertain your passengers, just leave the factory speakers in place. Also if you use an after market stereo, you could run rear speakers off that stereo's amplifier in in order not to waste amplifier channels on them. In that case, it's recommended that you install some kind of high sensitivity coaxial speakers in the rear. The new Morel Maximos or the new HAT Mirus would work running on head unit power better than SPR-60.

The SPX-PRO speakers are considered to be a little overpriced speakers, considered for what you get. Their tweeters and crossovers are considered to be some of the best in their class, but their mid bass is lacking a little in the bass area. However, their crossover is bi-amp capable. This means that you can use separate amp channels to drive the tweeter and the woofer, being able to match their outputs better for your install. I would go with these pros if I was ready to replace their mid woofers with something else, should I not like them, running in bi-amp mode.

Or you could also buy and install the new HAT Unity speakers. They combine the woofers of the highly regarded HAT Imagine speakers with the crossover and tweeters of even more respetable HAT Clarus speakers. Their MSRP is around $350, so their price is about the same as Alpine SPX PROs.
What do you mean when you say running in bi-amp mode? Also, if it's really an actual better setup to just run the front speakers, what amp should I get? I was planning to get the PDX-F4 because it's 100w RMS x 4 which seemed perfect.

Also, even if the SPX-Pro's are lacking in mid bass like many say who are gifted in audio sensitivity, wouldn't the sub help/make up for it?

I won't be running those aftermarket headunits that install in your dash. I have the stock nav and I want that look to stay that way. So I guess this means I need something like JL cleansweep? What exactly does this do, and does it need a separate power source?

Sorry I am new, but I appreciate any help, I want to learn.
 

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My response was more towards your comment about rainbow affect which is an install and EQ issue.

About the dome material, I tend to agree w/ Zaph Audio where he states that other design factors are more important and have larger affect on the overall sound of a driver. I've heard both very smooth metal domes and very harsh fabric domes.

It's not too often we get a selection this big of tweeters where everything is identical but the dome material. It definitely points one thing out - dome material is not nearly as important as other design elements.
 
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