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Well ive decided that im going to get npdangs mids comming out once they are ready, and im gunna stick those suckers IB in custom made fiberglass doorpods and get rid of the kickpannels (I want my leg room back lol). Ive had plenty of experience with FB, ive just never tried anything on my doors. So any general information on fabricating it helps out. If you got any links to tutorials or pics from people who have done it that would be awesome. Ive been searching tons of forums but not having much luck. Im mainly just trying to get the ideas, where most poeple put them ect. And ive seen my doors guts, talk about no mounting room lmao. Window/motors/wiring takes up almost all usuable area, so these door pods will most likely be pertruding 2.5"-3" to get the mid to fit how i want.

And in case you were going to refer me to npdangs post on how to improve doors for speakers for some more reading, ive already been there (awesome thread btw).

thanks guys, ill get pics up later today so you can help me a bit more with ideas. (and ideas can get fairly wild as i am going to completely copy my door pannel out of fiberglass so i dont have to sweat killing my doors lol)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
man you guys are fast lol, im posting this pic literally 5 min after the original post lol. Truck is a 94 Chevy Z71



All the shaggier looking carpet to the left is kinda of off limits becuase when door closes its all next to the seat, and since these speakers are going to be playing up to 2k, i cant have my seat blocking it. So basically we're talking about the area where the little cubby is in the door up to the control plate.

I was thinking about re-creating the cubby, having that as the area where speaker is mounted, but do it in such a way so i keep part of the cubby. So half will be taken up by speaker (bottom right corner). Wow talk about lots of sanding lmao. Doing that shouldnt be too hard though as ill be able to use the existing peice as my mold.
 

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I'd personally try and find a set of door panels with the provisions for the door mounted drivers and go from there. May cost a little more, but will cut fab time excessively.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'd personally try and find a set of door panels with the provisions for the door mounted drivers and go from there. May cost a little more, but will cut fab time excessively.
Bro, im 16, i have no bills and a job which means im itching to do something with my money lol, i work with my dad who owns a contracting buisness so i got any tool i could dream of, i also am still in permit mode so this truck isnt required to be on the road durring fabrication. This may seem insnae to some of you, but making this any easier to me takes all hte fun out of it. I need something to fill my time lol, and i cant think of anything better that the things i enjoy (audio)

Thx for links everyone!
 

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What i'd say do is take the same plane from your map pocket on up to just below the switches and make that area into a place to mount the speaker...as well as airspace needed for the speaker....you look to have a decent amount of space. That seems to me to be the most logical way to do it....as you have no existing openings or whatnot as it looks.
 

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just got a router so Im going ast this weekend (assuming it comes in the mail)

and AzGrower your doors look good

I wish I could mount my Xls 8" like that, I like the look of not being able to see the scrwe holes---looks sweet


hey man what bits are you using by the way?

and any chance you want to let go of some of those ezlocks so I dont have to buy two full boxes
 

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Tirefryr said:
AzGrower said:
newtitan said:
Hey thats me! :D

Also check out the Glassman forums. There are plenty of nice projects there.
http://www.glswrkz.com/
Very clean, but I have 1 problem with it. Are you simply relying on the door panel to create a seal between the front and rear waves? It seems to me there would be some leakage problems. If so, how did you go about fixing them?
The front wave is separated. I am adding some "window" sealing strips to the driver for this. Other than that, yes the panel creates the seal.
 

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newtitan said:
just got a router so Im going ast this weekend (assuming it comes in the mail)

and AzGrower your doors look good

I wish I could mount my Xls 8" like that, I like the look of not being able to see the scrwe holes---looks sweet


hey man what bits are you using by the way?

and any chance you want to let go of some of those ezlocks so I dont have to buy two full boxes
Thanks. I am using a 1" long, spiral upcut bit. The bit is used to make straight cuts in wood. I used a 3/4" roundover bit to round over the edges. And I will be using a 1/2" "Flush Trim" bit to make the tweeter mount, in combination with the roundover bit for a nice curved edge. You can find most of these for fairly cheaper at any Home Depot, Lowes, Sutherlands, or Ace Hardware. But to give you an idea, look here:
https://selectproducts.com/frames.html

PM me with the amount of inserts you need. But really, $9 for a bag of 100 is dirty cheapy anywho.
 

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thx man I had no idea which bits to use lol

ill head over to ace to pick up the ones you listed

and I might as well order the boxes I guess since it will cost at least 3.85 to ship priority
 

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newtitan said:
thx man I had no idea which bits to use lol

ill head over to ace to pick up the ones you listed

and I might as well order the boxes I guess since it will cost at least 3.85 to ship priority
I live in Arizona, and the nearest McMaster-Carr was in the LA (California) area, it took 2 days for normal UPS ground to get to me. They will ship from the nearest warehouse, and they have like 10 nationwide, so it should get to you fairly quick. For 200 pieces (100 of each size) it was $4.00 shipping. What size do you plan on using? The 1/4-20 are nice for mounting larger pieces to the panel, whereas the smaller 8-32 is nice for the speaker mounting. Got any pics of the panel you are planning on re-building? By the way, I am doing another project for the door pods. I am going to glass a mold of my speaker grill insert, them use that to mount a ring baffle to, then mount that to my door panel in place of the grille. But thats on a Chevy truck, so I dont know what its like in your case. I just want to see what way is easier to fabricate, and which gives the best results.
 

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cool man Ill post some pics of my door panels in a few and mabe you can give me some ideas

outer door




inside panel (no matt installed)




so what do you think ?
 

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And you say you want to fit an 8" driver in the stock spot? It can be done. It looks like what you can do is take that entire area thats indented in (the area with the stock speaker grille) and make that flush with the pocket, this will give you room to make an enclosure for the driver. You would need to make a fiberglass pod. I imagine that are (the lower panel section) can be separated from the rest of the door panel? If so, then you can glass over the entire lower section, after you make the door pod enclosure, then prep it and either paint it or cover it in vinyl. You might want to toss those pictures up over at Car Sound &Performance forums, under the Fabrication section to see what they say as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok so im slightly confused on how i want to mount the speaker to have it IB.
From what i understand. i want to have the speaker ring/baffle attached to the frame (metal) of the door, and let the fiberglass raise over to cover the front of the baffle but not seal it off behind the driver. This way your suspending the driver inside the door basically making the entire airpsace of the door the enclosure?
 

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smee said:
Ok so im slightly confused on how i want to mount the speaker to have it IB.
From what i understand. i want to have the speaker ring/baffle attached to the frame (metal) of the door, and let the fiberglass raise over to cover the front of the baffle but not seal it off behind the driver. This way your suspending the driver inside the door basically making the entire airpsace of the door the enclosure?
The baffle/speaker ring is attached to the fiberglass, which essentially becomes one piece when bonded together. This keeps the front and rear waves separated. Just like using a piece of mdf. The only difference is the material used in making the door pod or whatever. But to answer your question more clearly, YES. But in order to get better efficiency and response, you will need to sound deaden the door and cover all holes/openings/gaps in the inner door the best you can. This creates the larger "enclosure" needed for IB applications. You will get some leakage however cause door panels are not waterproof. Just do the best you can. I used 2 layers of Raammat bxt on mine and I am happy with the results.
 
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