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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There isn't too much on the net besides a few specs and pics. I really just wanted to know if I got a good deal and which mode is better for SQ? High current or high power. Just scored this guy on Good ole CL for $90. Condition is working and cosmetic 7/10. Also are there any simple upgrades to the amp that could be easily/cheaply made? Thanks for all your help in advance!!:)
 

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http://narbi.free.fr/manuels/Amplis/Soundstream/r604.pdf


*NOTE: The High Power/High Current switch affects both pairs of channels of
the REFERENCE604

The high power switch/mode is 1ohm stereo loads or higher (you get the most out of it at 1ohm with switch on High Power).


The high current switch/mode is for 1/2 ohm stereo loads.



As for which is better....that depends on your drivers dc resistance. Better SQ, go with 4ohm stereo loads and the "high power" switch. 75w x 4 @4ohm is not bad at all.
 

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There isn't too much on the net besides a few specs and pics. I really just wanted to know if I got a good deal and which mode is better for SQ? High current or high power. Just scored this guy on Good ole CL for $90. Condition is working and cosmetic 7/10. Also are there any simple upgrades to the amp that could be easily/cheaply made? Thanks for all your help in advance!!:)
I dig the username. :) NCSU grad myself.
Go Pack

That's a nice amp too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks trickyricky, I just found more specs for it and am pretty amazed at the versatility. Sadly this will be powering 4 memphis mclass coax's. I think it's crazy it's 1/2 ohm stable. I just want to ask why they don't make amps like this anymore!! Or do they?
 

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Because people thought it was a good idea to power them up with 1/2 loads with the amp in HIGH power mode. As you can picture it, it didn't end well....smokestreams.

If you know what your doing and how to properly set it, then it shouldn't give you any problems.



I suggest you clean all the switches and pots, the old soundstream's are known for dirty switches. I use DeoxIt D5 but there are other brands out there.



Some of the new amps today use current sense to set the rail voltage, so there's no need for a high power/current switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey look I'm a baller on a budget man. Components will come with more capital... I was gonna buy a set but saw this amp... I thought I did well. I found a guy with some pretty new focal components for less than 200. Baby steps for me... And I would never run this amp less than 2 ohms... Trickyricky! Is there a walkthrough on how to do all this cleaning? Qtips and deoxit? Thanks again!
 

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The deoxit D5 has three setting for the spray output, so I set mine between low and med then place nozzle tip right above the switches....slowly spray a little and then start rocking them back and forward a few times.

Same thing goes with the pots. If you leave a bunch behind on the board you can use a q-tip for clean up.



Do NOT run a Ref at 1/2 Ohm unless you want to replace it.
I agree....Just finished a 405 and tested the sub output at 1ohm, when I saw the manual stated that the switch can be left at "high power" I was shocked. So I did and got 229watts out of it prior to clipping, then with the switch on "high current" I got out of it 148watts. So amp did well with either setting, a little more power with it set on "high power" but to be on the safe side I would suggest setting it on "high current". The 405 has a very large bank of outputs for the sub channel.
 

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All the high current switch does is move the power supply rail Voltage to allow lower impedance loads. If you're not running under 2 Ohms stereo or 4 Ohms bridged, leave it in high power. Trust me. I've literally installed hundreds of Refs. I do miss the days when we'd have one go bad and I could just go to SS and pick up a replacement if we were out of stock. Ahhhh, memories. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The deoxit D5 has three setting for the spray output, so I set mine between low and med then place nozzle tip right above the switches....slowly spray a little and then start rocking them back and forward a few times.

Same thing goes with the pots. If you leave a bunch behind on the board you can use a q-tip for clean up.





I agree....Just finished a 405 and tested the sub output at 1ohm, when I saw the manual stated that the switch can be left at "high power" I was shocked. So I did and got 229watts out of it prior to clipping, then with the switch on "high current" I got out of it 148watts. So amp did well with either setting, a little more power with it set on "high power" but to be on the safe side I would suggest setting it on "high current". The 405 has a very large bank of outputs for the sub channel.
Thanks man. You're a huge help. This will be my first one I'm cracking open. The previous owner bought it new and it has never been opened. I'll post some pics when I get a chance!! :)
 

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This is more of a question for Ricky but also a suggestion...I wouldn't use an old amp like his without replacing the caps and inspecting all electrical components for damage. I'd replace the thermal paste while at it. Is cap replacement necessary? I know SS wasn't known for leaky caps like other brands, but caps do loose capabilities (like batteries) over the years.

OP, nice score. I really like the ref series from SS.
 

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With the description you gave, I would say you got a nice deal. These original 604's bring 2-3 times that amount on feebay depending on condition. I have been looking for a nicer 604 for a couple years and the nicer ones bring too much money.

Definitely take Ricky's advice and clean the pots & switches. If they are not giving you problems now, they will soon. I have yet to see the caps leak on an Original Reference amp(and I still own 9 of them). But 20+ years out of a cap is pushing its life span and correct tolerance. I recently had my Ref 200 recapped as a precautionary measure since I shipped it out to have it looked over. Enjoy your newfound treasure:D
 

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Opening the amplifier is not necessary for the switches (as they have a grommet cover right above them)...only for the pots. The switches was the main cause of issues on SoundStreams.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You guys will be happy to know that I picked up a minty set if cdt ef61i components. This amp will no longer be wasted on memphis m classes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Opening the amplifier is not necessary for the switches (as they have a grommet cover right above them)...only for the pots. The switches was the main cause of issues on SoundStreams.
The switches have never been touched according to the first owner. I'm a bit hesitant to mess with them.
 
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