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Discussion Starter #1
I've always had 12" subs in my vehicle installs. Now, I've gotten to the point where I don't need two, one is plenty. Last install was a 3 way with 8" Peerless SLS in the doors and a 12" SI Mag. My current install is/will be Usher 8945P 7" and it looks like I'm going to be stuck with a 10" sub (different vehicle, Mag is gone already).

I have a 2011 WRX hatch and the only good prefab fiberglass box for it is 10". The space in the trunk is limited and I usually have a golf bag back there so I don't think a 12" is going to fit, even if I make my own FG enclosure.

The thing is, I don't want to drop $600+ on a box and new sub if I'm going to be disappointed. I actually enjoy 60-100hz bass notes the best probably but my main concern is that the sub won't play low with any authority. I hate knowing there is musical content that I can't hear, or can barely hear for that matter.

What can you tell me about a single 10" vs 12" sub in a car?
 

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I don't think your going to have any issue with a ten. Of course it depends on what ten you decide on, but more importantly, giving it the right power and right enclosure.
What are you looking at?
 

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In my experiences, I've always been left wanting a little more on the lowend when listening to 10's in sealed enclosures. They always seem to be straining to get down really low. Having a hatch does help though, what type of music do you listen to?

I'm guessing ported is out of the question?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, it has to be sealed, unfortunately. I also have only about .65 cu. ft. and about 6" of depth, give or take, depending on the width of the magnet. A JL 10w6 is about the largest sub, and possibly the best, that I can fit. I'd love to hear any other recommendations though.

As for power, I need an amp that is 8" x 11" or less. I'm thinking a PDX-M6 but I don't know if that has enough power. The M12 is so expensive. The JL HD 750/1 is also an option. I'm still trying to find if there are any other 800-1000 watt amps that are that small...
 

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Looked at the Dayton HO reference 10" yet? You should be able to go ported in that size enclosure and have a flat response down close to 20 hz. there is alot of info on them around here. They do take alot of power though.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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Looked at the Dayton HO reference 10" yet? You should be able to go ported in that size enclosure and have a flat response down close to 20 hz. there is alot of info on them around here. They do take alot of power though.
I have looked at it. I can't use ported because I'm using a prefab FB enclosure. Does the Dayton not do well in sealed boxes?
 

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I have looked at it. I can't use ported because I'm using a prefab FB enclosure. Does the Dayton not do well in sealed boxes?
Yes, I've heard good thing about it in sealed enclosures. But it really shines in a well designed ported box.

Y can't you port your FG enclosure?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes, I've heard good thing about it in sealed enclosures. But it really shines in a well designed ported box.

Y can't you port your FG enclosure?
Mainly because I'm not too sure about cutting a hole in a $300 fiberglass box and I don't know if there is even room for a port. I also didn't know you could just cut a hole in any shape/size box and put in a port tube. Does that work?
 

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Yes, I've heard good thing about it in sealed enclosures. But it really shines in a well designed ported box.

Y can't you port your FG enclosure?
good things aboot that 10' HO in sealed, where? everything i've ever read was about them being ported. usually near chad's dimensions/recommendations.
 

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I'm assuming infinite baffle is out of the question? There's an IDQ15v2 for sale cheap right now in the classifieds that would work very well in IB. It would give you everything; space, low end, high end, punch, efficiency (250w to push it to xmax), the only downside is there are no prefab baffles.
 

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I'm assuming infinite baffle is out of the question? There's an IDQ15v2 for sale cheap right now in the classifieds that would work very well in IB. It would give you everything; space, low end, high end, punch, efficiency (250w to push it to xmax), the only downside is there are no prefab baffles.
I hadn't really considered it. I don't know too much about how to effectively build/implement an IB install. I have plenty of fab skills, I could do it myself, but I don't really know how it is done.
 

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I hadn't really considered it. I don't know too much about how to effectively build/implement an IB install. I have plenty of fab skills, I could do it myself, but I don't really know how it is done.
It's very easy and there's a member on here with a nice IB setup in a WRX.

It basically consists of a baffle to hold the sub behind the rear seat and divide the trunk from the cabin. Seal up the big holes, don't worry about the small stuff and that's about it. Selecting the right sub is important but with more and more people running IB now, we have a good idea of which subs work and which ones won't. I've personally heard the IDQ15 in an SQ setup and they sound amazing. They're so musical and dig deep with very little power. 750w would be overkill. I run 2 IB15s in my SQ setup and the power demands are crazy low. Roughly 200w to hit xmax at 20hz.

I just re-read the first post and saw that you have a hatch so you can pretty much disregard this post unless you have a way of dividing the front wave from the back wave lol.
 

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good things aboot that 10' HO in sealed, where? everything i've ever read was about them being ported. usually near chad's dimensions/recommendations.
Well it models nicely sealed with a transfer function that woul be complementary to an average in car response with respect to cabin gain.
Also, somewhere on this forum there is a lengthy thread about the Dayton HO and a few people mentioned trying it in a sealed enclosure.
 
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