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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys, I've got a little problem that I'm really hoping someone can help me nut out. Here's the history of my '89 Daihatsu Charade.

4.5 years ago: Ye olde tape deck swapped for Kenwood KDC-MP4036U (no pre-outs, rated at 4x50W) and 20yo 4" paper fronts swapped for ~$40 4" Kenwood 3-ways.

1.5 years ago: Venom (an aussie electronic store's own brand) 6x9s installed flush on parcel shelf, which gave nice back fill and bass and made the whole deal sound a lot fuller/better (remember everything is relative).

Now: 6x9s died from dust/grit, and I hated driving on the highway without them since they were all that made it audible/listenable. I got some Clarion SRQ6932Rs (Rated at 80W RMS each) to replace them, and here's my issue:

They're pretty revealing (once again, relatively) which is great, but they're so bright that at normal listening volume, cymbals or really any kind of high/sharp treble noises take over completely and are physically painful. I can't even EQ out all of it by dropping the treble as far as possible. The sound is just plain harsh (but doesn't seem to be quite so bad when running just the rears).

I'm wondering whether my HU's dying, or simply unable to provide enough power to drive the woofer properly, or whether I've installed them in a bad place (unenclosed, with the boot not sealed from the cabin) or something completely different. Can anyone tell me what might be the issue?

I'm about to put new 4" coaxials up front and considering grabbing a new HU(Clarion CZ201ER) and an amp for the 6x9s (Clarion APX2181, 2x90W RMS) but I'm wondering whether I'd just be pissing money up against the wall and still have the same problem.
 

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Overly bright compared to the fronts? Or overly bright compared to the old ones? How's their bass response?

To me it sounds like you've got one out of phase with the other-this would cancel most of the bass making the speakers appear brighter than they actually are. try swapping the +ve and -ve around on one 6x9 and see if that brings your bass back in and makes them less bright sounding. Also check the phase of fronts and rears is the same all round.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cheers Groog,

Overly bright compared to the fronts, and old rears, and any other speakers I've heard before. Bass response is balls (hollow and weak) without Kenwood's "Loud" setting turned on. (apparently compensates at low volumes by boosting bottom and top-end)

I'm 99% sure my polarity's correct, but it won't hurt to check.
 

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This reminds me of when I put a pair of JVC 5-way 6x9s in the privacy cover of a hatchback I drove in high school. I had them powered by the rear channels of a 75x4 RMS amp and the treble from those 6x9s was way too loud and painful at high volume. I'm not a fan of "super" tweeters that you find on coaxials with more than one tweeter.

An amplifier might take care of the lack of bass, but I bet it will make the treble intolerable.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If that's the case, (the treble as already intolerable) I imagine my best option would be simply disconnecting the tweeter? I'd assumed that if the HU was underpowering the 6x9s (4x17W RMS apparently) then the tweeter would be fine because it doesn't need much, and adding an amp would just improve the woofer... guess it doesn't work like that :p
 

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Discussion Starter #6
-slinks back in-

Well, as far as polarity goes, I couldn't have messed it up much more than I did.

The flyleads I soldered to one 6x9 were back to front, and if that wasn't silly enough, I'm a sparky, and back when I installed the fronts I wasn't thinking from an audio perspective, so to me the core marked with the line was negative, so now the rears were inverted with respect to the fronts.

Once that was fixed up, it sounds a little better. Just a little. /understatement-of-the-year

130 bucks later I've got a CZ500 on the way and am probably going to get the amp I mentioned before ($180), since I can hear a little distortion from the rears in certain songs. Once I've installed the new fronts the whole setup should be listenable for driving. Thanks for the help guys.
 
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