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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone.
As my title read, I need some advice on how to set up my sound system in my car. I'm not looking at buying more stuff , im trying to use what I have, in the most efficient way possible . Ill list what I have and some options im contemplating, and let you the experts school me .
Im a older guy that just want my car to sound better then what the factory gave me.
Head unit stock 2013 honda accord,
Fosgate dsr1 processor
Kenwood kac 7005 ps 5 channel amp. 40x4 @ 4 ohm / 100x2 @ 4 ohm and 500x1 @ 2ohm for the subs.
Focal iss 6.5 components 5-70 rms
140 peak. In the front lower doors that have been treated to sound deadening and the tweeters in the factory location on the upper door
2 kenwood 12 in a sealed box
And I have a pair of kenwood component speakers for the rear if I decide to use them really not sure yet .
So my many thoughts are to run the fronts active off the dsr1 40x4 or 100x2 and leave the focal supplied in line cross overs on them . And another option would be to send 40x2 to the front and 40 x2 to the rear active or with the supplied crossovers that came with the focals, and kenwoods. So let the experts chime in on the best way to use what i have. Thank you and sorry for the incorrect spelling if any and the long post.
 

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I depends on what you want. If i was trying to get loud, I'd run 40x4 to all 4 crossovers, for front stage fullness I'd run 100x2, and finally, the option I think would suit you best based on a very limited idea of your tastes, run the front stage active, but this will only benefit you if properly tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you, when you say front stage active your implying 1 channel to each of the four speakers in the front and really learn how to tune the dsr1 .
 

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I would go with active front end + sub in the back. Forget on rear fill if you dont drive passengers at back seats. This way you will have complete control over your system and more options to tune.
Probably you could run rear fill off of the head units internal amp
 
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I'd go bridged on the fronts. I don't think you'll gain much outside of personal preference adjustment from going active on those. You'll gain more IMO with having a crap load of power.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
More food for thought i just grabbed another amp out of storage. It is also a kenwood, it a match to the one i listed already but its 4x70 @ 4ohm. Should I work this one in . Any and all suggestions appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I was thinking the 4 channel up front
4x70 for the mids and tweeters
Bridge the 5 channel that would give me 70x2 for the rear and [email protected] for the sub. But what way to run it, active with the dsr1 or passive eith the supplied crossovers that came with the speakers. Thanks again
 

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If you're gonna run the 70x4 on the front stage there is no reason to not run them active.
 

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Run the tweeters and the rear from the 4 x 70, bridge the 5-channel to run the fronts 2 x 100. And I agree with FAUEE, run the front active. It will take more effort to tune it properly, but you will have better results at the end of the line.
 

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I'd go bridged on the fronts. I don't think you'll gain much outside of personal preference adjustment from going active on those. You'll gain more IMO with having a crap load of power.
I agree if the speakers are coaxials or mounted close together and have a passive xover

But as they move away from each other, then active allows then to be aligned better.

And one may get a better control of the crossover by going active using a DSP.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thank you for the replies , destarah why do you recommend running 70 watts to the tweeters and the rears. Wouldn't that be to much for the tweeters, im not denying what your saying, i just don't understand as I'm trying to learn how all this car audio stuff works. All my car audio experience is just put a amp some speakers and done. Another question i have is when I run active, should I leave the passive crossovers on or take them off.
 

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You didn't mention the model number of the 4-channel amp, so I have no idea if it can be bridged to run the front mids. If it can be, than the better option is to run the tweeters and rear with 40 watts off the 5-channel and bridge the 4-channel to run the front mids. Basically, you want to get as much power to the mids as possible ... you won't necessarily use it, but having power to spare for them is a good plan.
The passive crossovers are not needed when running active.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The 4 channel is a kenwood kac-8406 4/3/2 channel
The 5 channel is a kenwood kac-7005ps.
Thank you to everyone for taking time to help me figure out what would be a the best set up for what I have.
 

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Thank you for the replies , destarah why do you recommend running 70 watts to the tweeters and the rears. Wouldn't that be to much for the tweeters, im not denying what your saying, i just don't understand as I'm trying to learn how all this car audio stuff works. All my car audio experience is just put a amp some speakers and done. Another question i have is when I run active, should I leave the passive crossovers on or take them off.
The amp delivers "up to" 70W, which is something like 4W before music starts clipping the peaks.
And if the gain knob is down, and/or the volume is low, then it delivers only what it is told to deliver... which is typically 1W or less for mids and tweeters. Unless it I really loud.

The Midbass and sub consume lots of power in comparison to the higher frequencies.
Hence the idea of bridging was a nice recommendation for the Midbass.
 
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