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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All

Long time lurker and have just completed a new install of mine.

The Model 3 has by far the best factory system I've heard, but never pulled me in on an emotional level. Flat dry sound.

I pull some of my old parts together and had a brand new set of Boston Acoustics SPZ50's sitting on a shelf I forgot at my grandparents for almost 10 years.

I've been a big McIntosh amplifier user for cars for 20'ish years. Anyways, wasn't alot of work to do the setup and am very, very pleased with the sound. Not may folks will have heard the SPZ's from Boston back in the day, but they can match a high end Morel or Focal two way setup when done properly. They are truly a special speaker. Mine are the little 5.25 drivers, they have a huge 1.5" voice coil and 1" of excursion. The midbass and bass extension off these things is unreal and boston did design them for you to consider them as a replacement for needing a subwoofer in the car. Also not shown I've added a pair of Boston Environmental Imaging Tweeters. The SPZ's are 3 ohms rated for 150 watts, they take a lot of juice to move. . And my MCC404M McIntosh amplifier can deliver.

All of this was brought together with a JL Fix-86. Was doubtful on using an analog DSP summing device as it could skew the sound, but wow it worked well. Clean and flat and near unmolested sound. Highly recommended. The install was all done in the Front Trunk (Frunk) Onto the pictures and feel free to leave questions or comments.






 

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You were able to fit the SPZ's in coaxial mode in the doors without modifications?
Don't know what you mean without modification. I presume reuse the woofer housing, then yes I had to use a plate to make a mount. They are in coax and component mode with an inline set of environmental tweeters and a hidden set of crossovers. :)
 

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The SPZ in coaxial mode extends pretty far out. I remember those being difficult to install in some car doors because the tweeter/wave guide would hit the door panel. Any pics of the speaker install?
 

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Here
The SPZ in coaxial mode extends pretty far out. I remember those being difficult to install in some car doors because the tweeter/wave guide would hit the door panel. Any pics of the speaker install?
Here ya go. Even with the door panel on, there is easy room to clear the coax housing. Also, swapped out the JL Fix for a Helix DSP Pro MK2, way better sound.


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Nice. I have a soft spot for the Boston Acoustics brand from the old days. I hate that they went out of business.
Thanks. I've been a long time fan and user. Pretty much been an exclusive boston fan for over 15 years. I have another set of spz50's tucked away for the rear doors or another car if I feel up to it. But I am a front stage guy. I did get a box built a short bit ago and am running the G312-4 Sub in the Tesla trunk. Nice tight sound. Last picture to post. I cleaned up the wiring in the frunk for a quick release setup behind the tub for removal. Nothing is permanently attached and can be quick clip removed behind it with aviator plugs and a apc power lock. Anyways stay well, and drive safe!

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Did you have to do anything special to install the amp? I‘ve got this page bookmarked where the guy said he had to install a current limiter so the amp doesn’t pull too much power too quickly, which would upset the computer.


One of these days I’ll have a Tesla. :)
 

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Did you have to do anything special to install the amp? I‘ve got this page bookmarked where the guy said he had to install a current limiter so the amp doesn’t pull too much power too quickly, which would upset the computer.


One of these days I’ll have a Tesla. :)

Hey, I know of this install thread you've linked. I didn't' have to do anything special. I just tapped right into the 12v battery. I've seen reference to people adding a buffer, but before I did I used a multi-meter to check our the amp level to the 12v battery and I saw no anomalies that spiked the voltage or amperage. there is a DC/DC Converter between the main battery pack and the 12v, so that will likely be handling any powerflow requirements to the 12v battery. Some people tap the tower under the passenger seat since it bypasses the need to go to the 12v battery due to the potential of codes being thrown. I've had no issues with codes, likely due to the fact I am not drawing enough current to put the 12v battery in worse shape.
 
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