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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys

I'm new to this forum and new to the entire world of customized audio - just for reference, my home sound system is a standard Logitech z-5500 which I believe sounds almost decent when the volume isn't turned up very high...

Recently I bought my first car (Chevy Aveo Sedan - ?T250?) and I'm now contemplating putting some decent sound into it. I spend about three hours per day in the car, so loudness is quickly trumped by actual quality at reasonable volume levels...

During my commutes I usually listen to dub mixes, drum&bass and other electronic music, but sometimes also metal and rock, like Nightwish and Within Temptation - so I would assume that the best way to go about this is to find a reasonably flat response in the car throughout the frequency range.

The components I currently have come from a previous car I wrecked (nothing serious), though I did not have much say in their purchase, they are as follows:

1x Pioneer DEH-5450SD Head-Unit
2x Rockford Fosgate T1675 2-Way Full Range Speaker Sets (4x woofers)
1x Rockford Fosgate T400-4 Four channel Class AB Amplifier (2010 Model)
2x Rockford Fosgate P3D2-15 500W RMS 15" Sub-woofers (2007 Model)

I have the majority of the power cables sorted, including zero gauge from battery to a rear distribution block, upgraded zero gauge cable for battery and alternator groundings.

I will be spending around US$ 800 (Relative, we use Rands here) to further help the sound along and would like some advice regarding which items should deserve the most attention.

The current plan is:
Get something like a Rockford Fosgate T1000-1bdCP class B/D mono block for the subs ($525)
Dynamat the doors, floor and boot-lid ($150)
Add a 1 farad Capacitor to the power distribution ($75) (Rockford RFC1D)
Build a 150-odd liter sealed box for the subs ($80)
Replace the stock battery with something like a Bosch Silver Calcium ($120)

I will be building my own box as i have the woodworking skills and suspect there's nothing tricky to it?

My plan has taken this shape from informal discussions with people in the sound installation business, though I would not be surprised if their suggestions are wrong.

Other suggestions were:

To sell the subwoofers and get a single Rockford Fosgate T1D4-12 because it will handle the quicker bass of metal better, without compromising drum&bass?
This will be cash neutral.. So I can go either way.

To forget the class B/D monoblock and rather get an A/B amp with more or less 500W RMS for the sub(s), for sound quality reasons.
This might be cheaper than the monoblock, but is it worth it?

To forget the capacitor and battery replacement, and instead get a second battery in the boot..


Is there anything else that I have neglected and should rather focus on?

Any help will be appreciated!!
 

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No need for the CApacitor, they do more harm than good. 2 batteries may damage your alternator.
If under 1500 watts total, if you get dimming light or power issues, do the Big 3 with 0 gauge wire and get a deep cycle platinum battery from autozone, any deep cycle battery you choose. A good class D mono block amp would be more efficient with dimming lights and power issues.

To drive those 15" drivers you will need an amp that can deliver almost their power rating. I'm not a bass head, for me a single 10 or 12" would do, 2 subs get louder but not always give you more bass, but if you go to spl completions then get more drivers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No need for the CApacitor, they do more harm than good. 2 batteries may damage your alternator.
If under 1500 watts total, if you get dimming light or power issues, do the Big 3 with 0 gauge wire and get a deep cycle platinum battery from autozone, any deep cycle battery you choose. A good class D mono block amp would be more efficient with dimming lights and power issues.

To drive those 15" drivers you will need an amp that can deliver almost their power rating. I'm not a bass head, for me a single 10 or 12" would do, 2 subs get louder but not always give you more bass, but if you go to spl completions then get more drivers.
Would it be best if I just did the big3 and the upgraded battery immediately? I'm really not that into the whole SPL competition thing, have never witnessed an affordable sound system that could beat out 140+dB and still sound decent for daily driving...

Would the subs sound better on an A/B than a B/D if neither come even close to their max output? For instance, say something like a RF T600-2 versus a T500-1?

Thanks for the response, BTW.
 

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You have two dual 2 ohm VC subs, you should wire them this way, to get the most from a mono amp.

http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutch...nter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_2-ohm_mono.jpg

Unless you want to keep a 4 ohm load for each one, in either case the T500 would not be ideal, you should go with the T1000 if you like RF amps then you will have the option to wire them at 4 and 2 ohms if you like.

You can can wait to get the battery and big 3 after you install this, you want to know how your car would handle this power. If your battery is already over 3 years old and you may need a new one, then might as well do everything.

Also if you plan to play it loud with the engine off, you will need a DC battery and the big 3.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You have two dual 2 ohm VC subs, you should wire them this way, to get the most from a mono amp.

http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutch...nter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_2-ohm_mono.jpg

Unless you want to keep a 4 ohm load for each one, in either case the T500 would not be ideal, you should go with the T1000 if you like RF amps then you will have the option to wire them at 4 and 2 ohms if you like.

You can can wait to get the battery and big 3 after you install this, you want to know how your car would handle this power. If your battery is already over 3 years old and you may need a new one, then might as well do everything.

Also if you plan to play it loud with the engine off, you will need a DC battery and the big 3.
As a temporary step towards the purchase, I borrowed a Targa TG-18 monoblock from a friend and wired my subs to an 8 ohm load - As far as I can tell the monoblock isn't giving close to 500W RMS wired like this, though the subs are more than loud enough for me! Though I did find that my lights dim when running a 2 ohm load at the same apparent loudness, so I guess it's time for the big 3?
 

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Any particular reason for only fosgate equipment?

Forget db's and focus on sounding as clean as you can get with your equipment. if you are going to be spending 3 hours a day listening to it, if it dont sound good you are going to get fed up of it soon.

Try to get the biggest battery under there with the highest Ah rating, do the big three upgrade, make sure all connections clean and properly done. If it seems like you still low on power with symptoms like dimming lights then look into a bigger alternator.
Not because your light dim with that borrowed amp it means it will dim with the 1000bd fosgate. The fosgate might be more efficient, when you get your fosgate then see how the charging system holds up.

There is a thread in here about the differences in sound between class ab and class d. If I were you, I wouldnt hurt my head over it.

If you have the space, stick with the dual 15" p3 subwoofers. More cone area will get you louder easier. There is also a nice discussion about that "quickness of cone movements" in the car audio myths section here, have a read.

You building your sub enclosure according to manufacturers specifications or did you model it and tweak the specs to suit you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Any particular reason for only fosgate equipment?

Forget db's and focus on sounding as clean as you can get with your equipment. if you are going to be spending 3 hours a day listening to it, if it dont sound good you are going to get fed up of it soon.

Try to get the biggest battery under there with the highest Ah rating, do the big three upgrade, make sure all connections clean and properly done. If it seems like you still low on power with symptoms like dimming lights then look into a bigger alternator.
Not because your light dim with that borrowed amp it means it will dim with the 1000bd fosgate. The fosgate might be more efficient, when you get your fosgate then see how the charging system holds up.

There is a thread in here about the differences in sound between class ab and class d. If I were you, I wouldnt hurt my head over it.

If you have the space, stick with the dual 15" p3 subwoofers. More cone area will get you louder easier. There is also a nice discussion about that "quickness of cone movements" in the car audio myths section here, have a read.

You building your sub enclosure according to manufacturers specifications or did you model it and tweak the specs to suit you?
Well the "fosgate only" is because in South Africa, we have a million cheap ass brands that really suck in the SQ aspects, and R/F stood out as cheap enough though pretty decent to the previous owner of the equipment, so I just thought I'd keep to something like the t1000-1cpbd because it looks the same!

I'm really more of a practical guy, so if I can get an amp or sub(s) that is definitely better than the R/F ones for $500ish (incl shipping), I wouldn't really mind going for it.!

I've tried going though the discussions about A/B vs D, and I'm rather sure I would prefer 500W of A/B over 1000W of D, if the amps cost the same! though I'm not as sure where the B/D would fit in!

For the box I actually measured the available bootspace and concidered how much I would like as spare, came to about 150 liter for the box's max size, which incidentally gets me a Q total of 0,8 with the 2x P3D2-15" using Bassbox Pro software... I think that is rather respectable. I don't use the R/F recommendations because I (apparently) don't want a Q total of 1,0...
 

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Ahh, I see.

The 1000bdcp looks like a nice amplifier.

I'd go with the class D over ab because of the efficiency btw. But your fosgate is a class bd.

Thats a sealed box right? You happy with the curve you got on bass box?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ahh, I see.

The 1000bdcp looks like a nice amplifier.

I'd go with the class D because of the efficiency btw.

Thats a sealed box right? You happy with the curve you got on bass box?
Well, I wouldn't really know how to use that curve for anything, and I'm pretty sure I have no way of knowing how it will look with the Chevy Aveo Sedan's cabin gain factored in, but apparently these subs don't mind playing from 120hz to 20hz in that box with 1000W RMS...

And yes it's a sealed box, I don't have nearly enough experience or knowledge to know how a ported box should look for my requirements or car... Unless someone had some quick tips somewhere! That would be awesome
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Okay so I ran into a little issue, it appears that my R/F T1675 speakers won't fit in the front doors without blocking the window from going down, I need more than 1.5" extra to make them fit, but I can't put spacers because I'm right up to the front of the kick panel...

Do you guys have any suggestions? Should I perhaps go for smaller speakers? (any recommended below like $200 incl shipping)

Or should I go to a place that can maybe make me modified kick panels to fit the speakers I already have?
 
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