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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone! I finished the construction of my fiberglass door pods mechanically, not cosmetically yet though. I've been trying to tune the system but feel that the area of bass/midbass around where a bass guitar hits seems to be lacking. Here is where i noticed the more severe problem. Since the RS100 and RS225 both share the same enclosure and airspace, when the RS225 starts hitting harder, the RS100 extrudes (moves out?) with the harder hits/volumes in bass from the 225 even though its crossed over not to play that area of sound. Was making these both share airspace a bad idea?

I use an RTA like shown on the forum to EQ my setup and i get it pretty dang balanced, but still cannot hear the bass guitar frequencies as well as i'd like; that being balanced not booming even. Any input?
 
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Are the pods sealed? Answer is the same either way though....


If so, the 225 will need more breathing room. You will have to fab up a way to let the RS225 breathe into the door cavity (behind the sheet metal).


If not, and the mids are only vented behind the panel, you will also have to let the midbass breathe into the door cavity. Having the airspace behind the door panel is not sufficient, as this is not completely isolated from the interior air space (no matter how much you can try to seal it, it will not be perfect.


Aim is to isolate the front wave from the rearward wave, this has been discussed many times.



In addition, doing the above mentioned method will free up the door pod airspace for use by the midrange. The midrange response is definitely being affected by the midbass frequencies, and seeing the cone move is a great illustration and exactly what we want to be avoided.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's a PT cruiser. Yes they are sealed...so in other words making these sealed panels was an overall failed project in means of usage? I thought sealed was the way to go....but i guess that doesnt apply to the 225s then? Im a little lost now :( So i should make the speakers mounted how they are now, the instead of being sealed have the back of the pod open and mounted to the door? There are too many mechanical parts on the door for me to able to cut the inside metal except for the original 6.5" speaker mount hole on the metal. Here's another pic of the pods so you can see depth.


 
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Almost all speakers (not subwoofers) are intended for a true IB setup... if you open up the pods and vent them into the door you should see great results... do a search for IB and read up on it also do a search on sealed/ vented pods/ kicks and read up... there is a lot to be learned and these topics will show you the light so to speak...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
SHould i just cut the whole rear off of it? If someone could link me to a good IB post that would be great, ive searched but assume there's specific great threads around somewhere you know of. That fabric covered arm rest thing makes it very difficult to get a good shape out of fiberglass with.

So if i cut the back off, then the speakers will be open to the door metal (which is all sound deadened) but then it will not have any sealed properties since the pod wont be flush against the wall since it's not flat. Is this what we're trying to accomplish?
 

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SHould i just cut the whole rear off of it? If someone could link me to a good IB post that would be great, ive searched but assume there's specific great threads around somewhere you know of. That fabric covered arm rest thing makes it very difficult to get a good shape out of fiberglass with.

So if i cut the back off, then the speakers will be open to the door metal (which is all sound deadened) but then it will not have any sealed properties since the pod wont be flush against the wall since it's not flat. Is this what we're trying to accomplish?
you are better off trying to seal the back of the pod into the 6" factory hole....easiest way is to make an MDF ring that will be molded into back of the pod that you could flush mount and bolt securely to the factory hole...then that area should be sound deadened...best material to use is clay as you can mold it around the area and make it air tight.....

bolting an MDF ring to the sheet metal will help with rigidity.....which is essential for good midbass output and clarity....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So you would reccomend not cutting the whole back off, just enough to vent it into the door through the 6.5" hole, and then make that flush and sealed? What abut the RS100, should I make some type of cup to mount it in under the glass, behind it to seperate it from the 225?
 

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So you would reccomend not cutting the whole back off, just enough to vent it into the door through the 6.5" hole, and then make that flush and sealed? What abut the RS100, should I make some type of cup to mount it in under the glass, behind it to seperate it from the 225?
there is the possibility that once you do vent the pod, that both may be able to share the same air space.....


best way to do this is to vent the 225 directly into the door cavity, as i originally recommended....then the midrange could use the airspace in the pod, or could even be vented behind the door trim panel if need be.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So by venting it directly into the door cavity, do you mean inside the door as in between the outside painted metal and the inside that the trim mounts to? If so, the only way in there is through the speaker hole. Are you saying run some type of port from the 8" to directly inside the speaker hole in the door, or just vent the pod into the door and let the whole pod vent into the door like that?
 

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Venting it thru the factory opening prob isnt the beast idea, especially if the 8" isnt lined up with the factory hole. Arent the 8" and 4" sharing the same air space in the pod now?

I am going thru the same thing sort of. I built up some fiberglass doors panels for my 8" Noblium and it fires into the metal of the door. I have mine layered with foam to direct the waves inside the metal door where the window rolls down. Its not working out so I am now cutting the metal to mount them and use the regular door panel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hmm i see. I need more ideas and input!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Whoops i forgot to add that, i already tried the polyfill with varying amounts in both extremes
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
any other ideas or thoughts? Some saying yes do the speaker holes and others say not...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
nobody?
 

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You should do whatever it takes to seperate the two speakers. Make the midrange side of the pod the smaller enclosure of course. These will defintely work better in sealed enclosures since they are not high Qts drivers designed for car use specifically. Definitely do somethinng to seperate the two. One idea would be to use a cardbaord tube to make a small enclosure for the midrange and stuff it with Polyfil. You can use caulk or glue to seal the carboard tube to the baffle and the back of the speaker pod. You can also make a cardboard divider and stick it in place and then use fiberglass reinforced body filler to make a "wall" of sorts between the two speakers. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yeah im going to build a seperate area of airspace inside the pod for the mid, but im just trying to figure out what to do about the door now and the IB setup; wether having it vent into the door via the speaker hole would do anything or not without making a physical tube go from the speaker to the door.
 
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