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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Long thread in the noise? You shouldn’t get any noise if you use optical. That’s what’s great about it! If you forget using the headunit that is.

I left my oem connected to the rear speakera only that way I still could have some talk radio or background noise when not using my real system. It also kept my backup camera working
Yeah, it’s a thoroughly exhaustive discussion covering just about every possible noise creating situation and still ends with me throwing isolators in the signal chain. Somewhere in there the headunit was completely removed from so much as even looking at the dsp and amps and still noise. I will probably revisit the root cause down the road again but really just wanted to use a bandaid because it’s been a long time since I’ve been able to make moves stereo wise and I want to keep progressing and finishing the build finally.
 

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Amazon Music doesn’t like anything less than 192khz. iTunes isn’t as picky. You’re in for a treat!
Amazon Music has its own decoding software and Up/Down samples to the max of the device, at least that has been my experience... So if youre using a Samsung or Sony phone/tablet connected to a topping then it will set the USB-C audio out to 192 however several other android devices get set to 48... Apple music on the other hand passes on the bitrate that the song is being received in, however there is still some debate whether or not it is truly bit-perfect
 

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Amazon Music has its own decoding software and Up/Down samples to the max of the device, at least that has been my experience... So if youre using a Samsung or Sony phone/tablet connected to a topping then it will set the USB-C audio out to 192 however several other android devices get set to 48... Apple music on the other hand passes on the bitrate that the song is being received in, however there is still some debate whether or not it is truly bit-perfect
You edited my post... If you only have Toslink ran and it upsamples to 192 you're SOL. Toslink is only good to 96khz, Coax will do 192khz. Hence my recommendation.
 
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It's weird how post topics seem to come up in groups. I just posted asking about all digital signal path to the Helix DSP.3s
I am also a huge fan of HU and this will be a huge change. I still plan to use the OEM HU for apple carplay (wireless) for radio and Waze and then the Topping D10s optical to the Helix for music from Tidal on my iPhone 12.
Don't know where I'm going to put that Topping...maybe under the seat...or use a longer USB cable and put it in the trunk with the amps and dsp...
 
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It's weird how post topics seem to come up in groups. I just posted asking about all digital signal path to the Helix DSP.3s
I am also a huge fan of HU and this will be a huge change. I still plan to use the OEM HU for apple carplay (wireless) for radio and Waze and then the Topping D10s optical to the Helix for music from Tidal on my iPhone 12.
Don't know where I'm going to put that Topping...maybe under the seat...or use a longer USB cable and put it in the trunk with the amps and dsp...
Due to the size of the D10 I’m used a HiFiMe usb to toslink bridge as it’s very small. Considering the Douk Audio as well.


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Put it in your glove box or center console arm rear are possibly. Or up inside the dash. I’m sure there is hidden space
 

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Glovebox may work...The storage in the armrest is about 2"x2" lol. The entire interior of this car is so cramped and rounded that there isn't even room to fab a mount for anything.
 

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Does anyone have the link to which iPhone camera adapter I should get by the way? Amazon has like 10 different types...
This is the apple one: Lightning to USB 3 Camera Adapter - Apple Is that the best?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Put it in your glove box or center console arm rear are possibly. Or up inside the dash. I’m sure there is hidden space
That’s it - best to use the original Apple item


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Thats what I just bought.
 

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FWIW I've been using the Douk U2 for close to 6 months now with my Google Pixel 4 as the source w/ an OTG cable into my MiniDSP 8x12DL and have had zero issues. I can charge my phone and listen at the same time and stream 24/96 all day long. Plus with it being so small it was very easy to hide. It also allows me to use USB audio out of my laptop for when taking REW measurements. If all you're looking for is a USB to Coax/Toslink converter I'd look no further.
 

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The topping d10s also does coax out. I would trust the topping over the douk converter mainly because it’s more than likely the same thing as the 20 others that look identical.

One difference if using an iPhone with a douk or another converter vs the topping is that with a topping d10 yoi can adjust the volume with yoir phone whereas the converters for some reason volume lock the iPhones.
I know a few that use a Bluetooth volume control and stick it on the steering wheel then they don’t have to use the dsp volume control.
That might be something you are interested in doing
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
vs the topping is that with a topping d10 yoi can adjust the volume with yoir phone whereas the converters for some reason volume lock the iPhones.
Holy smokes my guy! I’m going to be able to adjust the volume with my phone, OR a Bluetooth knob!!! Hot damn boy you done made my night. I was not enthusiastic about dealing with mounting or fiddling with the Minidsp multi knob.
 

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The topping d10s also does coax out. I would trust the topping over the douk converter mainly because it’s more than likely the same thing as the 20 others that look identical.

One difference if using an iPhone with a douk or another converter vs the topping is that with a topping d10 yoi can adjust the volume with yoir phone whereas the converters for some reason volume lock the iPhones.
I know a few that use a Bluetooth volume control and stick it on the steering wheel then they don’t have to use the dsp volume control.
That might be something you are interested in doing
Not sure what other "identical" converters you're talking about? I've not seen about others that look like the Douk U2.

Also, the volume thing may be an iphone issue because I'm able to adjust volume up and down with my Android phone with no issues. This is not the best way to control volume however because we your lower the digital volume you're lowering the bit count so it's best to max out your source and control volume with the DSP remote. The MiniDSP can also be controlled with an IR remote control if you can't mount the volume knob within arms reach.

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Holy smokes my guy! I’m going to be able to adjust the volume with my phone, OR a Bluetooth knob!!! Hot damn boy you done made my night. I was not enthusiastic about dealing with mounting or fiddling with the Minidsp multi knob.
Don’t get excited just yet… the volume while you can adjust it the first step takes 40% off the volume, and the second step it becomes so quiet it’s unusable
 

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Don’t get excited just yet… the volume while you can adjust it the first step takes 40% off the volume, and the second step it becomes so quiet it’s unusable
yeah it does do that. There is a volume control app that allows you to adjust it by increments of 1 but I can’t remember what it’s called and never tried it yet
 

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Don’t get excited just yet… the volume while you can adjust it the first step takes 40% off the volume, and the second step it becomes so quiet it’s unusable
I always put my dsp knob right where my hand rests that way I’m never reaching to adjust.
 
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