tks tjk, I will try and observe this tomorrow and post here.You have to ensure that NOTHING is linked anywhere in the system. Goto Main tune window, and check each and every channel and make sure no channels are linked to other channels including Subs. Then goto Main Time window, and make sure all speakers are not Time-Grouped in anyway. Click the X for each speaker.
You will not need to max out your volume after your do the above. I used about 60%percent volume and it worked after I unlinked everything. Make sure to take note of the delay numbers that show up in the auto-ta window after the measurement is finished, because it may not auto-fill the new delays to the Main Time window. But you can set them manually using your notes.
I increased everything except the gain on the amplifiers. The volume from the laptop where I was running the sound to the analog inputs on the dsp, the mic volume, the levels in the DSP. The sound produced was really too loud for comfort, but then it was possible to get green readings. Barelyhow did you got increase levels to the mic...???
I tried tune today and the level mic in ATM window (UMM6 in my case) was very low, always red, even the volume on the speakers very loud.
the volume in HU almost at the maximum.
Yes, both 1.31. You can try less or more if you hear differences, but I'd keep them the same.I have a question..... after the auto-ta, it showed a delay for my right sub to be 1.30, and the left sub delay at 1.32. Both subs are in one box. So, should I average the timing, and use 1.31 delay for both subs, or use the 2 different times?
1 use either, they are the sameI’m going to attempt giving this a try, though I too typically only use iPhone to USB HEC, or Fiio coax SPDIF directly to the Pro-2.
So I guess with this Honda OEM (shoo), I could get the sound files to my Fiio then aux into OEM with a mini jack. And I guess I’ll have to switch my midbass channels to LOW instead of more midrange drivers in the tune file.
So there are two files in the folder.. Does it matter which you play?
I expect you’d want to do any individual driver EQ first before this since we’re talking IIR filters, so EQ affects phase.
How are you guys’ results with midbass coherence since we know midbass in cars have fun modality issues that drive us nuts even though they might be well timed? Also how about sub to midbass phase alignment for good coherence (fancy word for bass up-front)?
Anyone try some IR or phase plots after running this to see if REW, Smaart or Systune validates the tool?
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