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· Registered
299 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey before i start i just thought i'd write a recommendation for NPDang's service. His responses are quick, informative and helpful, and he ships internationally (im in Australia).

Okay i want to use the popular Seas and LPG components for my next 'budget' SQ install.

So far i have (in US dollars):
$112 Clarion DB356MP (second hand)
$195 Phoenix Gold ZX450 (second hand) (4x75w @ 4ohm)
$186 LPG tweeter and Seas Woofer
$ 86 Dynamat Extreme Door Kit (12sqft)
TOTAL: $579

Now i need, RCA and speaker wire .. but i wanna keep the costs down, after all it is a budget system.

IT's going in one of these, a Korean 2dr 2001 Hyundai Accent with wind-up windows, i hope i can make the SEAS fit !!!!!!

Here are some questions,

1. i plan on sealing the service holes (picture coming soon) on this car and applying the deadening soon, how effectively will the 12sqft of dynamat be in doing its job on these doors ? since my supply is limited to 12sqft, what parts of the door are the most important and cost effective to deaden ?

2. how important is RCA quality, and speaker wire .. a lot of sources seem to suggest you can save a lot of money by using basic RCA/speaker wire (remember i'm on a budget) and really the wires used make very little audible difference, when compared to the benefits of .. deadening (for example). here is the speaker wire i plan on using from a popular 'radio shack'-style store in australia .. it's "14 x 0.20mm"

i plan on buying about 4 lengths of 8 metres to run the LPG/SEAS components active off the phoenix gold amp. will this wire be sufficient ?


· Registered
299 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks !

ok i have some more questions as i have never deadened a door before. a car door usually has two skins, im assuming the 'inside' skin is the one closest to the passengers, where the mdf is mounted, and the 'outside' skin is basically the metal that is the door intelf, the exterior of the car.

great ! so with a limited supply of dynamat, what are the most important areas (6sqft per door, but i probably will get more later).

cam2Xrunner, by reading what you have said i'm assuming the most important part to apply the deadener is actually the inside of the OUTSIDE skin (through and past the service holes) and a little deadener directly surrounding the mdf baffle on the INSIDE skin. is that correct ?

Rick, could you please provide me with a quote including shipping approx 30sqft of your best deadener to melbourne, australia :) i predict the shipping costs as being quite prohibitive but ya never know i guess. thank you.

oh also, as far as speaker wire goes, will the generic 'radio shack' brand work well for sq (16 guage) ?

pretty excited about the install. setting up a paypal account so i can order some LPG tweeters from NPDang !

oh yeah almost forgot .. as far as the non-hardening clay idea works,
1. what kind of store sells the right clay
2. is the clay applied to both sides of the mdf
3. im used to BOLTING the mdf to the door and screwing the speakers to the mdf, how is this done when clay prevents a tight firm turn on the screw and especially the bolt to the metal

thank u !!

· Registered
299 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks regal, it's definately gonna be close, the depth of the CA18RNXs is about 78mm. i constructed a dummy from an mdf ring and some paper 78mm deep. although it wont fit parallel to the metal surface, as the top is closer to the glass than the bottom, if moulding clay is used, i can have the mdf right up against the metal at the top, and the bottom of the ring about an inch away from the metal, sealed by the clay. this design is similar to the original plastic spacer so it should be ok but the speaker IS a lot wider (in diameter)

can anyone help me with my above questions please ?
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