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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,
I just signed up in hopes of gleaning some advice on my system build for "Miss Fit," a recently acquired a 2018 Honda Fit Sport w/3k miles on the odo that I picked up via "fly and buy" in LA. I work in multimedia production and have been a audiophile since college, so I know a fair bit about studio and home systems, but very little about auto mobile audio systems.

I am hoping to build a low to mid range system in hopes of improving the already decent (compared to my 05 Toyota Matrix AWD) system in the Fit.

Due to a lack of fitment parts and somewhat due to not wanting to lose my stock features (most specifically Android Auto, steering mounted controls and back-up cam), I am currently planning on working from the factory head unit.

I am not looking to "Rock the Casbah" or impress others at the stop light, but am mostly looking to make a nice, tight sounding system with decent clarity at moderate volumes.

In the spirit of an old recording studio saying, "You're better off with 2 $400 speakers than 4 $200 speakers," I am considering using a 4 channel compact amp to drive replacement front component speakers and a modest subwoofer and forgo rear fill speakers.

Note: I camp out a lot and don't want to use much space for Subs and Amps etc...

My current plan is to use:
Right now I am looking for recommendations for a good compact 4 channel Amp.

I am also wondering about the benefits/trade-offs of adding a Lineout Converter like the AudioControl's LC7i.

Amps under consideration right now are:
Product suggestions and advice in compact amps are appreciated.


Also, what would I gain from using a line out converter? Is it necessary/worthwhile if the amp takes "speaker level" input and I use the amp's hp/lp filters to crossover the sub and the front main speakers? They seem rather big and I don't see much space, but I am sure I could fit one if it would make a big difference.

My installer has a MTX re-q5 that he'd like to sell me which has the benefit of a line in. Does it seem as good as the Audio Control stuff?


Overall, I feel like the subwoofer may be the weakest link in my current plan, but I am not really expecting/seeking chest pounding bass. Mostly, I think that the sub would take a fair bit of pressure off of the JL Audio c2-650's woofers (especially if I crossed it over at 120 to 180 hz.).

Thank you for any thoughts, warnings or advice.


:cool:

PS -- I'll try and fix this up with links, but my post count has been to low so far.
 

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What’s your overall budget? There’s a reason I ask. There are nice options available for compact subs, but they can start getting pricy. You already have the JL C2’s, so staying in the JL family...It sounds like you’d like one of the JL pre-loaded enclosures. They sound very nice and very much do their job. I have a TW3 thin mount sub in a JL prefab in one of my vehicles (jeep jk) and love it.

https://www.jlaudio.com/cs112tg-tw3-car-audio-powerwedge-subwoofer-systems-93303

The JL RD amps are nice if you have the room. They’re very small. I’d personally stay at the RD level or higher. The XD’s look really nice. Either way, why not use a five channel to save space? The RD 900/5 is very popular and I promise it will outlive the car. It has a very small footprint and would power your entire system.

https://www.jlaudio.com/rd900-5-car-audio-rd-amplifiers-98642

Since you enjoy quality sound, you will not be happy with the end result without using a DSP. You could probably find a PAC Amp Pro to fit your vehicle and send the signal to a DSP of your choice. There are numerous options. I personally use the JL Audio D8.

https://www.jlaudio.com/twk-D8-car-audio-processors-system-tuning-98102

There are a huge number of options, but the above would be a good basic system layout to start with. Good luck!
 

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For a sub I would not think a door mounted 6.5 will do much for you.

I own a JL 8 (CP108LG W3V3) and use it in the hatch of my Acura RDX. Works perfectly to fill in the richness and add good bass.

I own a JL 10TW1 in my cabriolet, in the recommended 0.35 box (placed in the rear footwell on the drivers side (it's a 4 seater - ok a 3 seater with the sub in!) and it does very well given the open vehicle.

Either would give you what I think you're looking for on a decent budget.

How much hatch or floor space can you manage to give up?

The JL 8 is tiny - roughly the size of 18 beer cans.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
What’s your overall budget? There’s a reason I ask. There are nice options available for compact subs, but they can start getting pricy.
Thank you for the reply.

While my budget is fairly flexible, my plan is to stay with a fairly modest system.

I don't think I am willing spend more than $500 max in addition to the JL Audio c2-650's that I already own.
It sounds like you’d like one of the JL pre-loaded enclosures. They sound very nice and very much do their job. I have a TW3 thin mount sub in a JL prefab in one of my vehicles (jeep jk) and love it.

https://www.jlaudio.com/cs112tg-tw3-car-audio-powerwedge-subwoofer-systems-93303
A $400 plus subwoofer is much more than I am looking for, plus a 12" would take up too much space. My goal for the sub is not to achieve chest thumping bass, but mainly to take some pressure of the front main speaker woofers. It's be nice if I could maintain flat bass down to about 60 hz at moderate volume levels. If I went with a better sub, at max I'd go to a JL Audio 6W3v3-4 with a very small sealed enclosure.

Either way, why not use a five channel to save space? The RD 900/5 is very popular and I promise it will outlive the car. It has a very small footprint and would power your entire system.

https://www.jlaudio.com/rd900-5-car-audio-rd-amplifiers-98642
I am planning for a 4 channel compact amp with 2 channels driving the front speakers and 2 channels bridged driving the sub, so w/o rear speakers, I don't need a 5 channel amp.

Since you enjoy quality sound, you will not be happy with the end result without using a DSP. You could probably find a PAC Amp Pro to fit your vehicle and send the signal to a DSP of your choice. There are numerous options. I personally use the JL Audio D8.

https://www.jlaudio.com/twk-D8-car-audio-processors-system-tuning-98102

There are a huge number of options, but the above would be a good basic system layout to start with. Good luck!
I do my critical listening while in a studio or edit bay at work, on my vintage ADS-L1590 based system at home or in my home studio (m-Audio BX5 d3's with a matching 10" BX Sub).

Heck, 90% of the time, while I am driving, I am tuned into NPR or BBC for my 5 min/1.6 mi commute back and forth from the office. The only time I listen to music in the car is on road trips and when heading out camping/whitewater paddling. I also like to take long international motorbiking tours, so my in car driving really only amounts to about 5k miles per year. As such, I just can't justify going that high end for my little commuter cart.

Thanks for the advice. That gear is mighty seductive, but I am working hard to restrain myself.

cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the reply and advice...

For a sub I would not think a door mounted 6.5 will do much for you...
I think it all comes down convincing myself to have realistic expectations.

In my Toyota Matrix, the JL Audio c2-650's were driven by a 100w/ch jx360/2 with no subwoofer and I was quite pleased with the sound at idle and moderate volumes, even though the bass was very week (my hp filter was set to 80hz). But when going at freeway speeds (my Matrix is a fairly noisy car) and wanting to rock out HARD, the woofer would bottom out on certain tunes with lot's of deep bass. I solved the issue by creating a custom eq for cranking music, which I seldom, if ever, used.

My Honda Fit is a much quieter car than the Matrix and I am planning to do some further sound deadening/insulating as well as buying quieter tires.

My main goal for the little kicker sub is simply to take some pressure off the c2-650 woofers when rocking out at freeway speeds and an added side benefit would be it could maintain basically flat tonality down to 60hz or so when listening at moderate levels. The purchasers that use it to replace factory subs (its intended purpose), seem to be well satisfied.

You and Salty have me second guessing myself though, I may be better off to go with the JL Audio 6W3v3-4 subwoofer and get one of those custom molded sealed enclosures built.

That sub may require a little more amp than I was planning for, but I am pretty sure it will fill a Honda Fit with decent bass.


How much hatch or floor space can you manage to give up?

The JL 8 is tiny - roughly the size of 18 beer cans.
The most I would be willing to give up is the indented area in the back right corner of the hatch. Like I said, maybe get a custom molded enclosure made.

Thanks.




 

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I think you're approaching this right, and having your own experience with a similar front stage without sub, you may be OK with a small one.

Perhaps installing the front stage with the 4 channel amp and then play around with different subs. I find lots of interesting options used locally.

I ended up mounting the JL 8 on the rear of the one seat in the hatch with L brackets and industrial velcro. That was a compromise I was willing to make, vs paying to have the stock sub removed and custom up a box in that hatch corner.
 

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Sub in the rear footwell sounds like a good idea, one I'll be trying in my next car

Door-mounted sub is likely to give you a lot of rattles, unless you do a mega deadening job!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank for the further advice.
I think you're approaching this right, and having your own experience with a similar front stage without sub, you may be OK with a small one.
I am hoping that with adequate sound deadening/insulation (considering full sound treatment to floor/door/hatch with deadener, closed cell foam & MLV), that I will have a pretty decent sounding system at moderate listening levels and that the car will be quiet enough that I don't feel much of a need to push the volume up very often.

I ended up mounting the JL 8 on the rear of the one seat in the hatch with L brackets and industrial velcro. That was a compromise I was willing to make, vs paying to have the stock sub removed and custom up a box in that hatch corner.
I like the velcro idea, then i could just quickly pull the sub, if I needed the space when going camping and such.

Kicker makes a small passive radiator to go with that sub, so maybe I could get the to sell me the passive radiator and I could fab up a box something like a reverse of their offering.

 

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Front speakers:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JBL-P660C-6-5-2-Way-Power-Series-Component-Car-Audio-Speaker-System/173989502018?hash=item2882951c42:g:olAAAOSw3GxdSuvm

or kappa

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-INFINITY-KAPPA-60-11CS-6-5-2-WAY-CAR-AUDIO-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-6-1-2-6011CS/271629448154?hash=item3f3e6073da:g:v5AAAOSwbqpTtdrB

or hivi
https://www.parts-express.com/hivi-dx-165-6-1-2-2-way-component-speaker-set--267-4368

https://www.parts-express.com/hivi-m1600ii-6-2-way-component-speaker-set--267-4370

Amp

soundqued

https://soundqubed.com/product/s4-100-multi-channel-amplifier/

Kenwood
https://www.ebay.com/p/Kenwood-Excelon-X301-4-4-channel-Car-Amplifier-2day-Delivery/2255548973

open box kenwood

https://www.ebay.com/p/Kenwood-Excelon-X301-4-4-channel-Car-Amplifier-2day-Delivery/2255548973?iid=191573045396&thm=1500

Above kenwood provide closer to 100 watts @ 4 channels and 250 bridged @ 4

NVX
https://www.ebay.com/p/NVX-JAD800-4-4-Channel-Car-Amplifier/129703141

Pioneer


https://www.ebay.com/itm/PIONEER-GM-D8704-CAR-AUDIO-4-CHANNEL-BRIDGEABLE-AMP-AMPLIFIER-1200W-MAX-POWER/283390110402?hash=item41fb5deac2:g:xJkAAOSw0TpcbyEW:sc:ShippingMethodExpress!08527!US!-1

Sub

top rec: JL CP108LG

10+ enclosure

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NVX-NSW102v2-10-700W-Car-Subwoofer-10-MDF-Sealed-Enclosure/362220857964?epid=6013525488&hash=item54560baa6c:g:UUEAAOSwwcRaZj-t:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!08527!US!-1

Skar

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SKAR-AUDIO-SDR-1X8D2-700-WATT-SINGLE-8-LOADED-VENTED-SUBWOOFER-ENCLOSURE/312643401825?_trkparms=ispr=1&hash=item48caffb861:g:6yEAAOSwjvxc98Q7:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!08527!US!-1&enc=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&checksum=3126434018253985e6ac2a9c4430aa316bf6b74a58f8

Or kenwood
https://www.ebay.com/itm/KENWOOD-EXCELON-P-XW804B-8-SUBWOOFER-IN-VENTED-ENCLOSURE-300W-RMS-POWER-NIB/254322798263?hash=item3b36d1eeb7:g:oukAAOSwM3hdSd6V:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!08527!US!-1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kenwood-10-Car-Subwoofer-in-Sealed-Down-Firing-Enclosure-Box-Package/183831613751?hash=item2acd37d137:g:rnsAAOSwV5lc8Tpf

Pioneer

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pioneer-TS-SWX2502-1200-Watts-10-Loaded-Shallow-Truck-Subwoofer-Enclosure-4-Ohm/183829565321?epid=8027054626&hash=item2acd188f89:g:RS8AAOSwRnNdN5sG

Rockford

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rockford-Fosgate-500W-Punch-Single-P1-10-Inch-Loaded-Subwoofer-Enclosure-P1-1X10/362350844780?epid=166043205&hash=item545dcb1b6c:g:QJ0AAOSwDZ1bH2H1:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!08527!US!-1

You do not need a JL amplifier. Focus more on speakers and install. 6" subs in door will cause more vibration noise than sub bass. Cost of sound deadening to fix it makes it just not worth it.

If it was me

kenwood 5 channel ( bridged to front channels in 3 channel mode)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kenwood-X801-5-RB-Factory-Reconditioned-5-channel-car-amplifier/173981560198?epid=11031744329&hash=item28821bed86:g:tHIAAOSwTPddQFZL

or marine version (same thing)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kenwood-KAC-D8105-kacd8105-1600-Watts-Max-Power-5-Channel-Class-D-Amplifier/293082474665?epid=15028858823&_trkparms=ispr=1&hash=item443d13a8a9:g:wuYAAOSw4fpc1KAV:sc:UPSGround!08527!US!-1&enc=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&checksum=2930824746658796c60866d54061bb66aa7fb747ce62


Hivi front

https://www.parts-express.com/hivi-m1600ii-6-2-way-component-speaker-set--267-4370

Sub

JL Audio CP108LG
 

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the JL 8 is very small and if you install it vertically in the corner you highlighted it would be 11" wide, 19" high and 5" deep. L bracket and velcro would work great.

I missed the jl audio c2 part but all your choices are good. The JBL amp is same as the infinity kappa. I suggest avoiding current soundstream amps and the infinity prius is two steps below the kappa/jbl amp you selected.

Bang for buck, the pioneer is nice because the built in sub remote. And the Kappa/jbl has Bluetooth streaming built in which is nice and a def bonus.
 
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