Hey everyone, new member from Vancouver, B.C., Canada. I’ve been into car audio for a while, currently working on my first build, for my 2017 Honda Civic Coupe Si. Looking forward to learning and contributing.
604AutoAudio
I have a 2017 Honda Civic coupe si. I was planning on using the oem head unit.. I'm been able to source out the following items, brand new or lightly used. I plan on put a Helix M four DSP under the passenger seat to run 4 mid range woofers (2 in the front doors, 2 in the rear deck), a PPI 5440 amp to run my center dash full range speaker and 4 tweeters (2 in the front doors, and 2 in the rear deck), Alpine 12" Type R Halo with Alpine PDX-v9 amp on mono mounted to the box. I was going to put Focal krx2 in the fronts and Focal PS130F in the rear deck. Not sure on my center dash speaker yet. I have to find something that will match my front focals.
Okay cool. You planning on something to correct factory signal like the keyloc or Audio control LCI thing or whatever to go before the dsp? Also what midrange/ midbasses are you planning.
Personally I’ve got to disagree with tweets in the rear deck for the way it will pull the soundstage back and make it sound a little odd. Like the the cymbals and random vocals are behind you but the rest of the band is in front of you. Just my two cents bud I’d suggest putting a 4or 5 in midrange and let it play 500-1500hz ish with a 15-20 ms delay at low volumes. That’s how rear reflections work in real concerts and I think it sounds good in car audio. 😃
Center speakers are very cool and you’ve got the gear to do it so sick.
If you need front 3 way + center recommendations I’m sure plenty of people would be happy to help.
Looks like you have the tweets and mids, now you just need a midbass.
Personally I’ve got to disagree with tweets in the rear deck for the way it will pull the soundstage back and make it sound a little odd. Like the the cymbals and random vocals are behind you but the rest of the band is in front of you. Just my two cents bud I’d suggest putting a 4or 5 in midrange and let it play 500-1500hz ish with a 15-20 ms delay at low volumes. That’s how rear reflections work in real concerts and I think it sounds good in car audio. 😃
Center speakers are very cool and you’ve got the gear to do it so sick.
If you need front 3 way + center recommendations I’m sure plenty of people would be happy to help.
Looks like you have the tweets and mids, now you just need a midbass.
Thanks so much for your response. I appreciate it. I'm new to this, and this is where I can use a hand with experience. Your timing is great, because I hadn't pulled the trigger on the rear components yet! And I was literally just about to take advantage of an ebay offer. Stock is 4" back there. But one guy designed a 1/2" thick pvc plastic speaker adapter/bracket for 5 1/4". That's a great idea, thanks again!
Hey Taylor, Think these would work? They are Focal. I'm a bit suprised at the price point. I didn't want to spend a whole lot of money at this point. As I've spent lots on the other gear.
Hmmm. So you have 10 channels of dsp and for channels of amp. Thats enough to tune and power the front tweets and midbass, so how are you planning on doing the center and rears? sounds likey ou need another amp, but probably dont need much power (for just a small center and rears). you have a mono you said for the sub channel so all good there. Also you dont have any signal correction like the KeyLoc to correct factory signal before dsp...
Now onto speakers. Since you have dsp I suggest active components and i suggest a 3 way up front instead of two. instead of straining midbass to go high and tweets to go low a mid will fill the gap so midbass can focus low and tweet can focus high. Sounds less strained. but since you have a dsp going active will let you better fully control crossover frequencies, slopes, TA, and eq etc. Passive crossovers eat a little power and alter impedance. active setups feed drivers directly from amp wich means better damping and control. But most importantly you are not locked into the crossovers the manufactuer decided. Now that focal gear is not bad, but its pricy for what it is.
That speaker you showed me should work fine for rear fill. really any speaker should work pretty well, you just want something with a not harsh sound signature back there so it doesnt catch your attention and instead blends.
As far as three ways go here are some ideas. idk your speaker sizes so heres just ideas.
A person recently recommended me for another install
1. Sb acoustics sb21rdcn ring dome tweeters
ring dome tweeters sound better than your normal domes which dont really sound awesome in a car. the dispersion is kinda awful.
2. scanspeak discovery 10f/8414g-10 full range (mid driver)
this is one of the most widely used and acclaimed mids out there. ask chat gpt, its the stuff.
also worth noting you usually want mids near the corners for corner loading and you want tweets pulled a bit away from things. lots of people are using mids in corners and tweets in pillars. (bigger speakers usualyl sound better near corners)
3. Any of the peerless HDS midbass drivers are very solid.
ive been looking at the HDS-p830875. i was going to get the stero integrity combo m25/m3/tm65 but i was recommended this which is cheaper and better. the tm65 is a good midbass, but they eggagerate the xmax compared to real testing. I believe dayton audio also has some nice midbass drivers. ive wanted to try the Dayton Audio RS180P-8 for a while.
I had heard of all these speakers independently before but a day ago i got suggested it as a three way and honestly I kinda love the combo. I believe audiofrog has a respeced 3 way, jl has some other 3 ways, Hybrid audio technologies has a 3 way (their legatia series). you want active tho, no built in crossovers. dayton has their reference series.
nothing wrong with a 2 way but its not my area of expertise but i could get some people that know a lot more than me. people are having luck with nice midranges aimed on axis instead of tweets.
Also not entirely sure about how to do center channels but i know its a tad complex, so if you want its really not entirely nessecary. i would ask some others about that. Also do you have plans for sound deadening/ absorbtion? thats half the sound quality and i could give some reccomendations to save money and sound great. side note i would try to use some ring dome tweets, they sound much better in cars.
Now onto speakers. Since you have dsp I suggest active components and i suggest a 3 way up front instead of two. instead of straining midbass to go high and tweets to go low a mid will fill the gap so midbass can focus low and tweet can focus high. Sounds less strained. but since you have a dsp going active will let you better fully control crossover frequencies, slopes, TA, and eq etc. Passive crossovers eat a little power and alter impedance. active setups feed drivers directly from amp wich means better damping and control. But most importantly you are not locked into the crossovers the manufactuer decided. Now that focal gear is not bad, but its pricy for what it is.
That speaker you showed me should work fine for rear fill. really any speaker should work pretty well, you just want something with a not harsh sound signature back there so it doesnt catch your attention and instead blends.
As far as three ways go here are some ideas. idk your speaker sizes so heres just ideas.
A person recently recommended me for another install
1. Sb acoustics sb21rdcn ring dome tweeters
ring dome tweeters sound better than your normal domes which dont really sound awesome in a car. the dispersion is kinda awful.
2. scanspeak discovery 10f/8414g-10 full range (mid driver)
this is one of the most widely used and acclaimed mids out there. ask chat gpt, its the stuff.
also worth noting you usually want mids near the corners for corner loading and you want tweets pulled a bit away from things. lots of people are using mids in corners and tweets in pillars. (bigger speakers usualyl sound better near corners)
3. Any of the peerless HDS midbass drivers are very solid.
ive been looking at the HDS-p830875. i was going to get the stero integrity combo m25/m3/tm65 but i was recommended this which is cheaper and better. the tm65 is a good midbass, but they eggagerate the xmax compared to real testing. I believe dayton audio also has some nice midbass drivers. ive wanted to try the Dayton Audio RS180P-8 for a while.
I had heard of all these speakers independently before but a day ago i got suggested it as a three way and honestly I kinda love the combo. I believe audiofrog has a respeced 3 way, jl has some other 3 ways, Hybrid audio technologies has a 3 way (their legatia series). you want active tho, no built in crossovers. dayton has their reference series.
nothing wrong with a 2 way but its not my area of expertise but i could get some people that know a lot more than me. people are having luck with nice midranges aimed on axis instead of tweets.
Also not entirely sure about how to do center channels but i know its a tad complex, so if you want its really not entirely nessecary. i would ask some others about that. Also do you have plans for sound deadening/ absorbtion? thats half the sound quality and i could give some reccomendations to save money and sound great. side note i would try to use some ring dome tweets, they sound much better in cars.
Welcome to DIYMA.
Do you typically have front or rear seat passengers, or do you primarily commute to work and/or drive alone the majority of the time?
FWIW, I would spend the least amount on the rear deck speakers. Just some inexpensive 4" coaxials or even just a 4" midrange/wideband driver. As a rear seat passenger when I was younger or riding along in a friend's vehicle I always hated having speakers right behind my head in the rear deck/parcel shelf.
If you want to create a decent front "soundstage" with good Left to Right Imaging that is anchored out in front of you, you typically do not want the rear speakers playing very loud at all, and also not playing lower midbass frequencies. However, if you just want sound coming from "all around you", then the rear speakers may be a more important consideration.
And one thing I can't stress enough is the proper application and use of High Quality Sound Deadening products. I would actually spend more on this rather than buying more expensive front component speakers.
There is an excellent "application guide" on how to best treat and use sound deadening products on the ResoNixSoundSolutions.com website, and there are heaps of "Build Logs" here on DIYMA that show the use and application of good sound deadening products. Without this, you are leaving a lot of the potential performance of your expensive component speakers and subwoofer(s) on the table.
Here's another slightly newer 2019 Honda Civic Si Sport install by one of our prolific DIYMA members, Erin Hardison. He no longer has this car, but the Build Log might be useful to you.
www.diymobileaudio.com
Also check out his "Erin's Audio Corner" YouTube channel.
www.youtube.com
HTH
Do you typically have front or rear seat passengers, or do you primarily commute to work and/or drive alone the majority of the time?
FWIW, I would spend the least amount on the rear deck speakers. Just some inexpensive 4" coaxials or even just a 4" midrange/wideband driver. As a rear seat passenger when I was younger or riding along in a friend's vehicle I always hated having speakers right behind my head in the rear deck/parcel shelf.
If you want to create a decent front "soundstage" with good Left to Right Imaging that is anchored out in front of you, you typically do not want the rear speakers playing very loud at all, and also not playing lower midbass frequencies. However, if you just want sound coming from "all around you", then the rear speakers may be a more important consideration.
And one thing I can't stress enough is the proper application and use of High Quality Sound Deadening products. I would actually spend more on this rather than buying more expensive front component speakers.
There is an excellent "application guide" on how to best treat and use sound deadening products on the ResoNixSoundSolutions.com website, and there are heaps of "Build Logs" here on DIYMA that show the use and application of good sound deadening products. Without this, you are leaving a lot of the potential performance of your expensive component speakers and subwoofer(s) on the table.
Here's another slightly newer 2019 Honda Civic Si Sport install by one of our prolific DIYMA members, Erin Hardison. He no longer has this car, but the Build Log might be useful to you.
2019 Honda Civic Hatchback Sport
I initially planned to wait until the build was complete before posting this but have decided to go ahead and make this an "in progress" build log and update it as it goes along. So let's get on with the show! The Car: After owning my previous car, a 2006 Civic Sedan LX, for 13 years and...
www.diymobileaudio.com
Also check out his "Erin's Audio Corner" YouTube channel.
Erin's Audio Corner
Welcome to my little corner of the internet. This is where you can find objective testing of a wide variety of audio gear with a dash of subjective feedback. The goal here is to help you be a better educated consumer. If you're looking to gain some knowledge and share some laughs, come on...
www.youtube.com
HTH
Hey Taylor,
Thanks so much for wrapping your head around this, I really appreciate.
I was lucky and scored a BNIB Helix M Four DSP for $375 CAD, I actually picked it up today. I get 8 channels DSP analog and 2 digital. For power specs I get 4 channels 75W x4 @ 4 ohm OR 120W x4 @ 2 ohms. I was going to use this amp to run the front midbass (doors). I was also going to use the other 2 channels to run the rear woofers in the rear deck. I'm glad you approved of the Focal HP5-M114B 5.25" sub bass midwoofer. They are only $37 each, surprisingly. Unless you can think of something else as you read on.
I do have another amp, I also picked it up today for $150. PPI 5440 5 channel amp. 40w x4 @ 4 ohms OR 80w x4 @ 2ohms AND for the 5th channel, I get 160w x 1 @4 ohms OR 80w x 1 @2 ohms. The amp has sub Xover so I can switch between full and LPF which is cool! I was going to use this amp to run all 4 tweeters and center dash speaker. BUT you convinced me that tweeters in the rear might not be beneficial. So this amp will run the front door tweeters and centre dash speaker, which I'm still unsure about too.
Yes, I also got a deal ($380) on a one year old Alpine Type R Halo 12" Box (750 rms @2ohms). I had a 1 year old Alpine PDX-V9 from my truck, as I was going to run this on mono (500w rms @ 2ohms) so I lucked out there.
I most definitely need a signal correction, now that you mention it, to correct the factory signal before DSP. That is now on the shopping list. I'll have to shop around for a deal on a lightly used one somewhere.
As far as speakers go now, other than my 12" sub, and the 5.25 Focal woofer for the rear, I've mentioned. You've mentioned 3-ways. Which has thrown me for a loop. I'm intrigued, and it makes sense how you laid it out about straining the tweeters and the mids.
I got a lead on a deal for $420 for 2 way Focals ES 165 KX2 6.5" rated for 125w rms @2ohms. The Helix is good for 120w rms @ 2 ohms, so I'm good there. Focal’s design for this model tweeter is an inverted dome shape with an “M” profile (i.e. the dome has an “M” cross section), made of aramid fiber.
And their cones are a foam + glass fiber + Kevlar sandwich for rigidity, lightness and good damping. Focals are said to have maybe to much brightness / harshness. But as researched they can be tuned.
Sb acoustics sb21rdcn, scanspeak discovery 10f/8414g-10, Peerless HDS-p830875, Stereo Ingetrity combo, Dayton Audio RS180P-8, Audiofrog 2-way component, and Dayton referance sereis are all do-able. However some of the other audiofrog stuff, Hybrid audio technologies might be too high end and hard to find lightly used.
Can't go 3-way in the doors, just not feasible, unless we go tweeter and mid bass in the doors and then somehow utilize the center channel as a mid range..? Or maybe we put a full range in the center. I'm not sure, this is where it gets fun.. I think I'm going to ask some others about that. I have it available to DSP, and I have the power available. Might be worth pursuing.
So as of now, I have no idea what to do. I thought I was going to buy those Focals. But now I'm to suggestions. I did have a shop offer me a set of components for $800 CAD from retail of $1600CAD. He said he liked them better than Focals... I think out of curiousity, I might reach out and see what he has to offer. But I'm open to more suggestions as I continue to venture down this fun path
I do have plans for sound deadening / absorption. Especially in the doors and the rear deck. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated, especially when it comes to saving money. Unfortunately I missed this deal. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1232336235167271/
Thanks so much for wrapping your head around this, I really appreciate.
I was lucky and scored a BNIB Helix M Four DSP for $375 CAD, I actually picked it up today. I get 8 channels DSP analog and 2 digital. For power specs I get 4 channels 75W x4 @ 4 ohm OR 120W x4 @ 2 ohms. I was going to use this amp to run the front midbass (doors). I was also going to use the other 2 channels to run the rear woofers in the rear deck. I'm glad you approved of the Focal HP5-M114B 5.25" sub bass midwoofer. They are only $37 each, surprisingly. Unless you can think of something else as you read on.
I do have another amp, I also picked it up today for $150. PPI 5440 5 channel amp. 40w x4 @ 4 ohms OR 80w x4 @ 2ohms AND for the 5th channel, I get 160w x 1 @4 ohms OR 80w x 1 @2 ohms. The amp has sub Xover so I can switch between full and LPF which is cool! I was going to use this amp to run all 4 tweeters and center dash speaker. BUT you convinced me that tweeters in the rear might not be beneficial. So this amp will run the front door tweeters and centre dash speaker, which I'm still unsure about too.
Yes, I also got a deal ($380) on a one year old Alpine Type R Halo 12" Box (750 rms @2ohms). I had a 1 year old Alpine PDX-V9 from my truck, as I was going to run this on mono (500w rms @ 2ohms) so I lucked out there.
I most definitely need a signal correction, now that you mention it, to correct the factory signal before DSP. That is now on the shopping list. I'll have to shop around for a deal on a lightly used one somewhere.
As far as speakers go now, other than my 12" sub, and the 5.25 Focal woofer for the rear, I've mentioned. You've mentioned 3-ways. Which has thrown me for a loop. I'm intrigued, and it makes sense how you laid it out about straining the tweeters and the mids.
I got a lead on a deal for $420 for 2 way Focals ES 165 KX2 6.5" rated for 125w rms @2ohms. The Helix is good for 120w rms @ 2 ohms, so I'm good there. Focal’s design for this model tweeter is an inverted dome shape with an “M” profile (i.e. the dome has an “M” cross section), made of aramid fiber.
And their cones are a foam + glass fiber + Kevlar sandwich for rigidity, lightness and good damping. Focals are said to have maybe to much brightness / harshness. But as researched they can be tuned.
Sb acoustics sb21rdcn, scanspeak discovery 10f/8414g-10, Peerless HDS-p830875, Stereo Ingetrity combo, Dayton Audio RS180P-8, Audiofrog 2-way component, and Dayton referance sereis are all do-able. However some of the other audiofrog stuff, Hybrid audio technologies might be too high end and hard to find lightly used.
Can't go 3-way in the doors, just not feasible, unless we go tweeter and mid bass in the doors and then somehow utilize the center channel as a mid range..? Or maybe we put a full range in the center. I'm not sure, this is where it gets fun..
I think I'm going to ask some others about that. I have it available to DSP, and I have the power available. Might be worth pursuing. So as of now, I have no idea what to do. I thought I was going to buy those Focals. But now I'm to suggestions. I did have a shop offer me a set of components for $800 CAD from retail of $1600CAD. He said he liked them better than Focals... I think out of curiousity, I might reach out and see what he has to offer. But I'm open to more suggestions as I continue to venture down this fun path
I do have plans for sound deadening / absorption. Especially in the doors and the rear deck. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated, especially when it comes to saving money. Unfortunately I missed this deal. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1232336235167271/
Yes absolutely. Okay so what are your stock tweeter and midrange and midbass locations? Dash midranges? Dash or sail panel tweets? Door midbass locations? Have you thought about getting pods?
A lot of people love kick panel midbasses there is nothing like it but it is work.
So for two way you were gonna do what? Dash tweeters door midbass?
So there is nowhere for midrange or what?
3 way would be nice but there are people who could help find good 2 ways.
I’ll look into speakers today for you.
The ones you could said you could afford and any other options.
My main issue with the focals was that they were passive. I like focal I used to run their tweets in a pod and they were nice, but a bit pricy. Get back to me when you can on what your from speaker locations are and I’ll look into what would be a good steal. I can also get some of my car audio genius forum friends in here lol. I think both kicker and audio control have their signal correction devices. AC charges like 150 and kickers KeyLoc is like 200. The keyLoc does slightly better but both get the job done.
A lot of people love kick panel midbasses there is nothing like it but it is work.
So for two way you were gonna do what? Dash tweeters door midbass?
So there is nowhere for midrange or what?
3 way would be nice but there are people who could help find good 2 ways.
I’ll look into speakers today for you.
The ones you could said you could afford and any other options.
My main issue with the focals was that they were passive. I like focal I used to run their tweets in a pod and they were nice, but a bit pricy. Get back to me when you can on what your from speaker locations are and I’ll look into what would be a good steal. I can also get some of my car audio genius forum friends in here lol. I think both kicker and audio control have their signal correction devices. AC charges like 150 and kickers KeyLoc is like 200. The keyLoc does slightly better but both get the job done.
@BobTheBirdTurd @kaijerke Hey yall know way more than me. Can yall make sure im saying the right stuff and help me with recommending some good 3 ways and some good 2 ways? and maybe comment on the center channel situation?
Hey guys, I'd really appreciate an hear if possible.
I do have stock tweeters located in rear deck, upper corners of the C-pillars, just below the rear windshield. They are angled slightly toward the cabin. Front tweeters are located in the front doors in the sail panels.
oEM on the fronts are 6.7" and are OEM Full Range, and they are located in the doors, lower corners. OEM in the rear is 4.7" Midrange but people have upgraded to 5.25" with a 1/2" bracket. OEM on the center dash speaker is 3.15" but people are upgrading to 3.5" without any modification.
I'd love to get into kick panel midbass or midrange (not sure..?), from what I just looked up. Definitely something to consider. I still have the amp power and DSP. Didn't really want to get into pods, unless you have a genius idea
Now you've got me considering kicker and going 3-way. I could go 3 way on the fronts, with installing inside the kicker panel, what would you recommend? However with the Helix 8 channel DSP amp I just bought, the rear (2) 5.25" midbass would have to be taken out of the equation for DSP. Is that possible to run those without DSP? Thinking FOCAL 5.25" HP5-M114B MID SUB BASS Woofer for the rear deck ?
If I did go 3-way, thinking a lightly used audiofrog, what would you recommend? I'm thinking 1" tweeter, then 6.5" mid Bass? then open to suggestions for the kicker size speaker? I'd have to go door side, as Honda put a small shelf in the console. Don't think it fit there. And I do have 40W rms available for a kicker speaker. But I think that might be underrated, as it's old school PPI amp.
Then I would NEED advice on 3.5" center dash speaker. OEM is not a full-range or woofer speaker. It serves as a dedicated center channel, providing specific sound frequencies rather than broad spectrum reproduction.
The whole front channels as well as the sub can all be Helix DSP. It's just the 2 speaker in the rear deck would have be out of the equation. I think I'm going to pass on the Focals ES 165 KX2 for my fronts and go 3-way.. I never have rear passengers, so that's not an issue.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate it.
I do have stock tweeters located in rear deck, upper corners of the C-pillars, just below the rear windshield. They are angled slightly toward the cabin. Front tweeters are located in the front doors in the sail panels.
oEM on the fronts are 6.7" and are OEM Full Range, and they are located in the doors, lower corners. OEM in the rear is 4.7" Midrange but people have upgraded to 5.25" with a 1/2" bracket. OEM on the center dash speaker is 3.15" but people are upgrading to 3.5" without any modification.
I'd love to get into kick panel midbass or midrange (not sure..?), from what I just looked up. Definitely something to consider. I still have the amp power and DSP. Didn't really want to get into pods, unless you have a genius idea
Now you've got me considering kicker and going 3-way. I could go 3 way on the fronts, with installing inside the kicker panel, what would you recommend? However with the Helix 8 channel DSP amp I just bought, the rear (2) 5.25" midbass would have to be taken out of the equation for DSP. Is that possible to run those without DSP? Thinking FOCAL 5.25" HP5-M114B MID SUB BASS Woofer for the rear deck ?
If I did go 3-way, thinking a lightly used audiofrog, what would you recommend? I'm thinking 1" tweeter, then 6.5" mid Bass? then open to suggestions for the kicker size speaker? I'd have to go door side, as Honda put a small shelf in the console. Don't think it fit there. And I do have 40W rms available for a kicker speaker. But I think that might be underrated, as it's old school PPI amp.
Then I would NEED advice on 3.5" center dash speaker. OEM is not a full-range or woofer speaker. It serves as a dedicated center channel, providing specific sound frequencies rather than broad spectrum reproduction.
The whole front channels as well as the sub can all be Helix DSP. It's just the 2 speaker in the rear deck would have be out of the equation. I think I'm going to pass on the Focals ES 165 KX2 for my fronts and go 3-way..
I never have rear passengers, so that's not an issue. Thanks guys, I really appreciate it.
Okay cool. 1st helix dsp is the cornerstone of the system. I cannot exaggerate the difference it will make, but you are right, if it is 8 channel itll be 6 for the front 1 for sub one for center so you wont be able to do rears. But I think a front 3 way with midbasses in the kicks will sound sooooo much better than a two way with rear fill. rear fill when done right is a nice luxury IMO!! (its a tad controversial lol) but will give you nowhere near the wow that 3 way with kick midbasses will.
So keep dsp, just go no rears for time being, than can be an upgrade one day
(use a y splitter on rca out for fronts to another 2 channel simple cheap dsp. range limit 500-1500 and add 20ms delay and turn level down a lot anb boom rear fill added).
Onto midrange. you want midranges high not low, so like upper door is okay, but corner dash is best. tweets in sails or in dash is good, you just want them away from boundaries like windshields a tad. not saying it has to be now, but tweet pods so you can pull them away from windsheild a bit and aim them better at you is a solid upgrade for cheap. Anyways im getting off track this paragraph is about mids lol. Usually mids are near ish to the tweets, just near a boundary because that helps them unlike tweeters, Mids in corner of dash sound great, tweets there no so much.
Basically i like you stock tweeter position, but you would need to figure out the mid positioning. But since they sound good in corners like dash corners you could see about mid pods and get smaller like 4 in or 3 in mids in the front and that would sound great. There are threads to be found about fabricating cheap pods. but lower doors are a no go for midranges. it needs to be possibly upper door by tweet but ideally dash corner.
onto the midbass, (i think tweets are strightforward for you) kicks sound outstanding. There are basically three things that we absolutely fanboy over in sq world. A dsp, front subs to bridge midbasses and rear sub, and kickpanel midbasses. Doors absorb so much of the speakers energy, but kicks are great. 10/10 if you feel confident in doing it. if not go with the doors, but use lots of cld and an absorbing layer and make sure its sealed best you can.
NVX cld is great bang for buck. get their thick one not the thin.
for absorbing material here is a huge money saver: Recon/Chip Foam Sheet - GB CHIP - GB Foam Direct just spray 3m industrial adhesive and stick over the cld layer. for the price its so good on a budget.
anyways im like secondhand excited for you lol. this is going to sound very good, especially compared to what you were first thinking.
also maybe someone will know somewhere to get pods (buying instead of making is nice lol). you could always start another thread and ask!
anyways im glad to help keep asking away lol
So keep dsp, just go no rears for time being, than can be an upgrade one day
(use a y splitter on rca out for fronts to another 2 channel simple cheap dsp. range limit 500-1500 and add 20ms delay and turn level down a lot anb boom rear fill added).
Onto midrange. you want midranges high not low, so like upper door is okay, but corner dash is best. tweets in sails or in dash is good, you just want them away from boundaries like windshields a tad. not saying it has to be now, but tweet pods so you can pull them away from windsheild a bit and aim them better at you is a solid upgrade for cheap. Anyways im getting off track this paragraph is about mids lol. Usually mids are near ish to the tweets, just near a boundary because that helps them unlike tweeters, Mids in corner of dash sound great, tweets there no so much.
Basically i like you stock tweeter position, but you would need to figure out the mid positioning. But since they sound good in corners like dash corners you could see about mid pods and get smaller like 4 in or 3 in mids in the front and that would sound great. There are threads to be found about fabricating cheap pods. but lower doors are a no go for midranges. it needs to be possibly upper door by tweet but ideally dash corner.
onto the midbass, (i think tweets are strightforward for you) kicks sound outstanding. There are basically three things that we absolutely fanboy over in sq world. A dsp, front subs to bridge midbasses and rear sub, and kickpanel midbasses. Doors absorb so much of the speakers energy, but kicks are great. 10/10 if you feel confident in doing it. if not go with the doors, but use lots of cld and an absorbing layer and make sure its sealed best you can.
NVX cld is great bang for buck. get their thick one not the thin.
for absorbing material here is a huge money saver: Recon/Chip Foam Sheet - GB CHIP - GB Foam Direct just spray 3m industrial adhesive and stick over the cld layer. for the price its so good on a budget.
anyways im like secondhand excited for you lol. this is going to sound very good, especially compared to what you were first thinking.
also maybe someone will know somewhere to get pods (buying instead of making is nice lol). you could always start another thread and ask!
anyways im glad to help keep asking away lol
Hey Taylor,
Thanks for your your shout out to others You never know.
As mentioned, I reached out to an install and sales shop. He didn't have a whole lot to offer. He was willing to let go at a discounted price was Blam 2-way components.
But he did say... Your next part will be the axdis as you need a way to get full range signal into the Mfourdsp. With the limited no of inputs this is the only drawback to these. amplifiers.
I thought this was a little out of my league until I saw the following... Axxess AXDSPX-HN3 bypass harness with DSP : $150. And I see some audio frog in there too. I don't mind spend a bit more on 3-way. I'll just have to take a step back prior to the install, while I research more on the fabrication the kickers.
He also had this to say this on a topic that's near and dear to you. But after checking out the cost, I like your idea much better.
"Youll want to get into a dual layer material. This will ultimately save you costs and headache as youd be applying the three materials in one application. We use soundshield SSD1 in most of our installations for this reason."
I'm going to keep hunting around for deals. I have to get 7 more points and 7 more days before I can respond to classified ad on this website. I have to look into how I'm going to get more points. I also have a ton of research on 3rd speaker locations either on the door, kicker both sides, etc.
Hey, thanks again Taylor for reaching out. I'm glad I turned down the Focal 2-way. I'm excited too for the end result. I'm sure 3 way will make a HEEELLLL of a difference. I've got my eye on those audio frogs
Thanks for your your shout out to others
You never know. As mentioned, I reached out to an install and sales shop. He didn't have a whole lot to offer. He was willing to let go at a discounted price was Blam 2-way components.
But he did say... Your next part will be the axdis as you need a way to get full range signal into the Mfourdsp. With the limited no of inputs this is the only drawback to these. amplifiers.
I thought this was a little out of my league until I saw the following... Axxess AXDSPX-HN3 bypass harness with DSP : $150. And I see some audio frog in there too. I don't mind spend a bit more on 3-way. I'll just have to take a step back prior to the install, while I research more on the fabrication the kickers.
He also had this to say this on a topic that's near and dear to you. But after checking out the cost, I like your idea much better.
"Youll want to get into a dual layer material. This will ultimately save you costs and headache as youd be applying the three materials in one application. We use soundshield SSD1 in most of our installations for this reason."
I'm going to keep hunting around for deals. I have to get 7 more points and 7 more days before I can respond to classified ad on this website. I have to look into how I'm going to get more points. I also have a ton of research on 3rd speaker locations either on the door, kicker both sides, etc.
Hey, thanks again Taylor for reaching out. I'm glad I turned down the Focal 2-way. I'm excited too for the end result. I'm sure 3 way will make a HEEELLLL of a difference. I've got my eye on those audio frogs
I need to mention tho. Whatever you get to flatten the stock signal also needs to compensate for for stock TA. I know the key loc does. Not sure about audio controls model.
Hey Taylor, thanks again for your input. No worries, I'm probably going to take a step back myself, as I have to absorb all of this information and figure out my budget, etc. Regarding those Audio Frogs, I'll probably end up going for the entry level drivers, after thinking more about it. I never heard of adxis either, I'd glad you agree that this isn't needed. Probably takes excess time to tune as well.
Enjoy your weekend!
Enjoy your weekend!
Okay back at it lol. Which set were you looking at specifically, and ill look into them to see if I have critiques or recommendations. Also audiofrog is a great brand so good decision.
Hey Taylor, busy weekend? Are you Canadian? We just had our Thanksgiving, thought maybe that's what you were busy doing?
So I thought more about it... And the Audio Frog GB series is quite pricey. And I pulled the trigger on that Alpine Type R 12" Halo sub. I asked CHAT and it said that it would be best to pair it the Focals instead of the Audio Frogs.. Thinking of going Focal's K2 instead of the GS series.
I did a little more research.. If I decided to pay $450 for a 1 year old set of Focal ES 165 KX2 2-way component kit. I could add the 3" mid range from the 3-way kit of the Focal “K2” / “K2 Power” line Focal ES 165 KX3E and it's the exact same kit as the KX3E. I see 2 other WANTED ads online, looking for the same midrange, so others are doing it. It's actually one other ad, but the other ad was fullfilled, and said "bought". I can be patient... might take me some time to pull the trigger on the install, but we'll see.
Good news! I decided against the kicker options for midrange install, thanks for the advice. Unfortunately my A-pillar has a curtain airbag that runs from the roof down to the dash. So that's not fesible. If I mount to the dash, I think it will obstruct my view of the road. I do have a sail panel that already has a tweeter, so I can utilize that. The only other option I have is to mount to my door, which will sit less than 6" from the tweeter.
I'm actually doing some research on where exactly. I will have more information on this tomorrow, as
I'm just waiting on some depth numbers. I'll have a picture or 2 for you too. But I'm thinking the door handle trim and bezel piece. It pops out separate from the door panel, easier to replace, if needed Talk soon. Thanks!
So I thought more about it... And the Audio Frog GB series is quite pricey. And I pulled the trigger on that Alpine Type R 12" Halo sub. I asked CHAT and it said that it would be best to pair it the Focals instead of the Audio Frogs.. Thinking of going Focal's K2 instead of the GS series.
I did a little more research.. If I decided to pay $450 for a 1 year old set of Focal ES 165 KX2 2-way component kit. I could add the 3" mid range from the 3-way kit of the Focal “K2” / “K2 Power” line Focal ES 165 KX3E and it's the exact same kit as the KX3E. I see 2 other WANTED ads online, looking for the same midrange, so others are doing it. It's actually one other ad, but the other ad was fullfilled, and said "bought". I can be patient... might take me some time to pull the trigger on the install, but we'll see.
Good news! I decided against the kicker options for midrange install, thanks for the advice. Unfortunately my A-pillar has a curtain airbag that runs from the roof down to the dash. So that's not fesible. If I mount to the dash, I think it will obstruct my view of the road. I do have a sail panel that already has a tweeter, so I can utilize that. The only other option I have is to mount to my door, which will sit less than 6" from the tweeter.
I'm actually doing some research on where exactly. I will have more information on this tomorrow, as
I'm just waiting on some depth numbers. I'll have a picture or 2 for you too. But I'm thinking the door handle trim and bezel piece. It pops out separate from the door panel, easier to replace, if needed
Talk soon. Thanks!
Yeah awesome. No im in college for an electrical engeneering degree, and this weekend I drove home (it’s a little drive) to spend time with family. Happy thanksgiving up there tho!
I’m assuming you mean kick midbass?
So there is an upper door spot for midranges? Upper door usually works pretty well. Not quite as well as corners, but with tuning it can sound great. And the tweets are gonna go in the pillars right beside them?
As long as midranges and tweets are up high and kinda close.
And yeah as awesome as the GB series is it’s very expensive. Don’t forget you can mix and match. SB acoustics makes a lot of amazing gear for great prices.
I’ve actually been working on a speaker recommendation chart. Research and comparing a ton of them.
Focal is solid, just be careful which line. Their budget lines are nothing special. The tweets are often kind of awful.
Maybe just get the midrange and get SB21 or 29 (29 is better and pricier) for a tweet and you should then have money for a nice midbass.
Idk all im trying to say is do not be afraid to mix and match.
For example im about to do a system with SB21 neodymium tweet either scanspeak 10f or sb15 poly cone or m3 carbon midrange and either sb17mfc or peerless hds or stereo integrity tm8 midbass.
Also when comparing speakers always check speaker databases or get chat to pull tested data for the speaker. It can be very different from manufacturers listing for better or worse.
Nice sub tho. I’ve always wanted one of those.
Also watch sizes when you turn a 2 way into a 3 way because 2 ways often have large tweeters which you don’t want with a 3 way. And just avoid passive crossover speakers like the plague lol.
I’m assuming you mean kick midbass?
So there is an upper door spot for midranges? Upper door usually works pretty well. Not quite as well as corners, but with tuning it can sound great. And the tweets are gonna go in the pillars right beside them?
As long as midranges and tweets are up high and kinda close.
And yeah as awesome as the GB series is it’s very expensive. Don’t forget you can mix and match. SB acoustics makes a lot of amazing gear for great prices.
I’ve actually been working on a speaker recommendation chart. Research and comparing a ton of them.
Focal is solid, just be careful which line. Their budget lines are nothing special. The tweets are often kind of awful.
Maybe just get the midrange and get SB21 or 29 (29 is better and pricier) for a tweet and you should then have money for a nice midbass.
Idk all im trying to say is do not be afraid to mix and match.
For example im about to do a system with SB21 neodymium tweet either scanspeak 10f or sb15 poly cone or m3 carbon midrange and either sb17mfc or peerless hds or stereo integrity tm8 midbass.
Also when comparing speakers always check speaker databases or get chat to pull tested data for the speaker. It can be very different from manufacturers listing for better or worse.
Nice sub tho. I’ve always wanted one of those.
Also watch sizes when you turn a 2 way into a 3 way because 2 ways often have large tweeters which you don’t want with a 3 way. And just avoid passive crossover speakers like the plague lol.
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