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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have my JL 500/5 wired into the factory harness in the trunk so I have quick access to the HU outs. I had some basic RF twisted pair RCAs taped in as a test for about a month, then wired in some multi-shielded Acoustic Research Pro II cables in and soldered them today.

Turn things on and very little bass at the input/gain levels I had it at prior, which was low. I had to jack it way up and it's still weak and distorted. Checked the wires, all wired correctly. Any idea what might have happened?
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Okay, I switched the sub channel to take the input from the F channel and things are back in business. Still don't know why the Sub RCA is acting up, but I suppose it doesn't matter as long as the other 2 pair are functioning.
 

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Have a multimeter? If so, check each + and - of the problem RCA with the OHM setting. If there is conductivity between them you have a problem...yeah its a noob suggestion but hey, you never know!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Okay, this is a weird one. I spliced these 'directional' RCAs and the one that wasn't working was the side that had the signal direction pointing the wrong way. Now my understanding is directional means nothing in RCAs so I can't explain it, but when I used the half with the direction pointing opposite, it worked fine.... Same solder points and everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the interest Chad, here's the setup:

BOSE hu outputs differential balanced, wiring harness in the trunk (input connector for factory amp). Spliced in Acoustic Research Pro II RCAs, one to the hu rear speakers to feed the sub and one spliced into hu front channels to feed the mid/tweets. It's bandpassed on ID OEMs (front) and Seas Neo (rear) with the sub on its own.

The spliced connections were confirmed correct, then soldered. Works, then doesn't, then turn car on and it works again. Hasn't worked in a few days. Was thinking about connecting the 'front' RCA just to confirm it isn't a signal problem. No warning lights on amp, no toasty smell. Other channels working fine.

I have a multimeter, but only know the real basics. I've got a lot to learn
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The first set were TP rockfords, thin, weak connectors so I thought the super thick, multishielded ARs would be better, but they aren't TP. Was that a mistake?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Here's a quick update. On the way to the store after work I had no sub, 5 minutes later it's on, stays on 15 min, then off again. Haven't had a chance to fiddle, but not good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Interesting. I wonder if there's a chance the wiring from the binding posts in the box isn't as tight as it once was. The connection from amp to box is solid though. That I can confirm.
 

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Rather possible, they do vibrate ya know :D A little loctite blue will keep them from backing out. Have an old speaker you can attach up really quick to see if it works when the other does not?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I just got an Exile XT10 in yesterday that I can plug right in and see if that makes the difference. I feel like we're getting closer. Wish I was near the car now...
 
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