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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My daily driver is due for a makeover, so in a few weeks its going to get it.

The vehicle is a 2008 Tribute iTouring
It has and will need to keep the factory head unit, the stock "Audiophile" integrated model. Currently it is wired to my 3sixty.2, which is picking up on the speaker out signal from the front and sub channels, and doing all the processing duty and active crossover control. The 3sixty.2 will be staying, of course. Can't find anything better for the moment, and until the MS-8 comes out I doubt I will.

For the front stage, I am caught in quandary between the well-spoken PRS-720's, and a few other top contenders. I listen to house / trance most of the time, and I love the reviews on the 720's for their mid-bass. What other components or separates are considered competitive or better than the 720's in this regard? The Type X PRO's were also high on my list until I caught on to their weaker midbass performance relative to the 720's back to back. I also keep wondering about the Kicker SS lineup, as many have said good things about them as well. Naturally I couldn't care less about passive crossovers, since we're talking active here, but I get the feeling that some of these component sets are definitely worth the asking price. On the upper spectrum of my price range, the SR6500's seem plausible as well. Thoughts? I have no problem going truly separate, but the tweeter has but one place to mount in the car (there is already a hole for the previous tweters, right under the door's sill.) This means that a separate tweeter must fit precisely in the same hole (or I can enlarge ever so slightly), and look good doing so. Many separate tweeters I see simply don't have the mounting hardware to do this nicely. I'm open to any suggestions you feel might make it though.

Moving on, I'm almost 100% set on running a pair of Stereo Integrity v4's, in a sealed .707 alignment. I'm unsure of the T/S params on the SI's, but around a cubic foot each seems doable w/ my space allotted. The idea is to rebuild the trunk (again, this is its 3rd go-around) so those SI subs are under the factory carpet, as if nothing is there. Currently a pair of Fi Audio subs reside, so I'm certain the SI's more shallow shape will make this easy.

The next step is to do a new set of amplifiers. My beloved and well-used PPI DCX 300.4 and 500.1 are going to my bro-in-law's install, and I need to pick up something new. I am craving the Eclipse ICEpower amps, the new lineup that looks wavy instead of the old square ones. I've always liked B&O's ICEpower technology, and the new Eclipse sub amp boasts 1200W RMS power in a tiny package, while its matching 4 ch amp is no slouch either. They pop up on eBay for a mere ~275 each, so I think this might be a cheap way to get what I want. I'm all ears to other suggestions though, including classified ads.

No doubt I'll need to upgrade to 0 gauge wire, and I've always been a knukonceptz fan (for wire and their new RCAs only, not the distros and such), but I'm open other wiring suggestions if anybody has them. I'll also need a decent fused distro box...I like the ones that have both the ground and main power in the same box, like the older Stingers have. Should have bought those when sonicelectronix had them for 80% off...

I'm probably going to add more deadening to the 30-35 sq. feet of RAAMmat I already have in the truck, and of course Ensolite the areas I've not done yet.

I'll be pulling the trigger on items starting the first of April, or a bit sooner. Thanks guys, and please by all means any suggestion is worth the look. I'm all ears for learning some new tricks as always.

The truck:

The trunk,...yes there's equipment under there!







Never got around to redoing that suede...it fell off in the 110+ degree heat last summer.



Nothing special, just a good DD with a decent audio setup.
 

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Why invest in active crossover control with the 3sixty thing and then go buy a passive component set? Am I missing something?
 

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Lol

Youre always changing man.

Get raw drivers. Youll get the prs and not like the tweets maybe or if you get the alpines, you may be unhappy with the midbass.

Since youre upgrading your power seems like a great opportunity to try some nice raw drivers.

Id look to Peerless exclusive, seas lotus or home line, scans, and many of the other drivers reviewed here and see how they suit what you like. Do the same with tweets. Maybe the prs mids with a tweeter that matches what you like. Of course the seas neo will come up.

Car audio sets Id recommend

Zapco ck and rf blue (never heard the rf red set)
Rainbow Profi Kickbass
Alpine pro
jbl gti
Polk SR
Focal utopia or poly kevs if you like the sound
MB quart QSD (same as above)

But I think the raw drivers and the most power you can get to the mid is the best option. I think the eclipse, pdx, prs amps or the kenwoods even though you dont need the dsp are good choices at the price. More power the better
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

I was selling these pieces of junk to punks at my store for years. I'm not exactly on your level w/ those. Have fun w/ them though.


Tyroneshoes,

This time I have to switch up, bro. The entire gear setup I have is going to my bro-in-law for a decent price, and that gives me the opportunity to upgrade! I've always liked the idea of separates, but IMO I've got this feeling that the midbass in the 720's is going to be hard to beat, and even for ~$225 that the 720's run, that's not bad for JUST midbass drivers, I suppose. I'd also have a sell-able set of crossovers and tweets if they didn't work out.

You did mention the JBL GTi....now that is one I totally forgot. Those are supposed to be the cat's meow, as it were.

FoxPro5, you are also correct, as it is a waste to buy a set and only use parts of it. I wouldn't mind being pointed in the right direction towards a separate suggestion, but the tweeter must flush in nicely like the Cantons did, with a smooth finish. You've no doubt noticed that a lot of separates are really weak on mounting finesse. Throw me some suggestions if you have some on this solution. Here's a pic of their resting place:





KingNothing : This is a decent example of what I'm after, you got it. I still am kicking myself for not buying up the Stinger ones for ~$14 each on sonic...I could have made a killing!

Still, I see your point and recognize it.
 

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Ruh ro... I was planning on sticking a pair of 12s under the rear cargo floor in my girlfriend's 2006 Mazda tribute. It looks like I have my work cut out for me:blush:

ETA: Thus far, I have the following for my girlfriend's setup:
Clarion DXZ785USB
Clarion EXL 400.4
Orion 280 GX with Erath Electronic Suspension Module
Alpine Type Yar components to be run active
A pair of Memphis M Class 12s that need to be in a 1.3 cubic foot net enclosure to work with the Erath Electronic Suspension Module
 

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Me, and I'm sure a lot of other's thinking here is ....

Want the Type X set? Buy a pair of Vifa XT19's and a comparable mid, save some dough.
Want the SR6600 set? Buy a pair of Vifa XT25's and a comparable mid, save some dough.

I'm sure they're not exactly the same, but knowing install and tuning is 70% of the battle, they basically will end up sounding close enough to justify the near 50% savings (guessing).

Seeing as though your Left side tweeter is more than 60* off axis, those ring radiators are known to suffer badly off axis. I've use the SR tweets and that was my experience. You COULD rock a pair of XT25's and be happy as a puppy with two penis, though...one never knows....just gotta go with the objective to start, you know? :)

Speaking of which, how about reviewing Zaph's tweeter mishmash? It's a great place to start tweeter shopping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Fox:

I totally understand what you're saying, but there's a big missing piece of the puzzle here..

Notice that the ring radiators by themselves have no grill, and no mounting devices...

That's why I'm in a pickle.

I need something that mounts up without any real work, flush in just like you see in the pics.

Oh, and don't worry, I read everything Zaph puts out. Sweet stuff! Most tweeters just don't have the mounting hardware I need though... (sad.)
 

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knukonceptz ----

Me too, he makes good stuff

and u mean 1/0 guage right ?

zero cools but damn that stuff is thick it like soup can's

Do you not have a budget ?

You got a great spot on those tweets too, For distro block i like these, knukoncepts.com I just love wafer fuses!

If i were you i would get some nice plush Black carpet to break it up and there and add some thick jewt pad underneath it and your set

What about Image Dynamics CXS54

or theses

Diamond Audio HP 650

Heard a pair of both fanstic

And why did u leave the wood bare ??, got a little lazy much

And those pionners...... I can't rember lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
knukonceptz ----

Me too, he makes good stuff

and u mean 1/0 guage right ?

zero cools but damn that stuff is thick it like soup can's

Do you not have a budget ?

You got a great spot on those tweets too, For distro block i like these, knukoncepts.com I just love wafer fuses!

If i were you i would get some nice plush Black carpet to break it up and there and add some thick jewt pad underneath it and your set

What about Image Dynamics CXS54

or theses

Diamond Audio HP 650

Heard a pair of both fanstic

And why did u leave the wood bare ??, got a little lazy much

And those pionners...... I can't rember lol

Have you ever used the Knukonceptz distro boxes? Because I have, and the 3 that I've bought for myself, and the 6 that I've used in installs all SUCK big time. I bought almost all of them at about the same time, and one install after another I ran into issues....I regret each one. The problem is that the konfused compression fitting strips out due to being made of too soft a material. It happens REAL quick too, and just when you think you've made a tight connection, it will fall out of the threads and you're screwed. I won't be using them again. My only fix was to insert Monster Cable compression fittings which are made of a better material, and fit the same. But, I ran out of those on the 5th distro box.

The wood is bare because at the time that system was made, I had no desire for anything someone could see. And, as you can see when the factory carpet is in place, there is NO way to tell what I have. Its also worth noting that when that system was being built, I had no money to my name, but a bit of gear from my last car. I didn't buy any wood or anything, I just used what I had in the garage and put it together on a wing and a prayer that I'd be successful. This new system has a much larger buget for materials, and equipment as a whole. The new system will be built with more pride and attention to detail. You have to admit though, that was pretty good for not buying anything specific....just using scraps in the wood pile and leftover materials. :)

I think I'm going to need 0 gauge w/ 1200W RMS on a sub amp, and ~400W RMS on the main amp. That's about 30% more than I have now. Alternately, I could double-barrel another piece of 4 gauge. That's a possibility.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Use those walmart ribbons and some nice 6.5's :)

Ahh...the ribbons are awesome (seriously...), but they won't fit in this car and stay wife-approved for the looks. Besides I really want to send the ribbons out to some DIY'ers and let them get tested, perhaps by the kippel or something.
 

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Have you ever used the Knukonceptz distro boxes? Because I have, and the 3 that I've bought for myself, and the 6 that I've used in installs all SUCK big time. I bought almost all of them at about the same time, and one install after another I ran into issues....I regret each one. The problem is that the konfused compression fitting strips out due to being made of too soft a material. It happens REAL quick too, and just when you think you've made a tight connection, it will fall out of the threads and you're screwed. I won't be using them again. My only fix was to insert Monster Cable compression fittings which are made of a better material, and fit the same. But, I ran out of those on the 5th distro box.

The wood is bare because at the time that system was made, I had no desire for anything someone could see. And, as you can see when the factory carpet is in place, there is NO way to tell what I have. Its also worth noting that when that system was being built, I had no money to my name, but a bit of gear from my last car. I didn't buy any wood or anything, I just used what I had in the garage and put it together on a wing and a prayer that I'd be successful. This new system has a much larger buget for materials, and equipment as a whole. The new system will be built with more pride and attention to detail. You have to admit though, that was pretty good for not buying anything specific....just using scraps in the wood pile and leftover materials. :)

I think I'm going to need 0 gauge w/ 1200W RMS on a sub amp, and ~400W RMS on the main amp. That's about 30% more than I have now. Alternately, I could double-barrel another piece of 4 gauge. That's a possibility.

Ok i need clarifaction.

Are u Using "0" Guage wire or "1/0" Guage wire cause there is a huge diffrence.

And that distor problem did not happen to me ? :confused:
 

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The deletes were because the OP STATED that he does not want them, they are ruled out, if you wanna know what we think of the reference series search your username or start a new thread..... after I click reply there will be another delete and edit.
 

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This is obviously motivated by some innane attempt to have an exclusive club that tell people to buy specific 'group stroke approved' gear. Nobody to DATE has given specific and good reasons for why Infinity Ref comps are poor speakers. I've only got nonsense opinions and jokes. Deleting my posts certainly shows you're not interested in facts or presenting proper info, but you certainly accept unfounded insults.
 

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As long as you shoot for 1 ft^3, you'll be good to go with a Mag v4. For Mag v4 enclosures I always shoot for 1 ft^3 and then line the enclosure with fiberglass insulation and lightly stuff the rest of it with polyfill and I get great results every time. You'll be surprised to see how much of a difference there is in mounting depth between other subs in its class (usually ~ 6.75") and how shallow the Mag v4 is. :)

My suggestion for your front speaker selection leans towards the SR's. I've heard the Kicker SS comps before and they have heavy listener fatigue. Sure the drivers were built by a good build house, but other than that they are not close sounding to other drivers made by the same company. The SR's, on the other hand, can have a very laid back and/or neutral response which I like better than a harsh sound. After all, these speakers are going to be listened to for hours at a time if you drive anywhere near as much as I do (at least 2 hours every day).

PS: Do you have the dreaded noise floor because of your 3sixty.2? I do and I'm getting very annoyed with it. The bluetooth connectivity also crapped out on me the day that I got the XTZ room analyzer to play with in my car. So now I'm sending it back on Friday and my system will be down for at least a week. :(
 

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Have you ever used the Knukonceptz distro boxes? Because I have, and the 3 that I've bought for myself, and the 6 that I've used in installs all SUCK big time. I bought almost all of them at about the same time, and one install after another I ran into issues....I regret each one. The problem is that the konfused compression fitting strips out due to being made of too soft a material. It happens REAL quick too, and just when you think you've made a tight connection, it will fall out of the threads and you're screwed. I won't be using them again. My only fix was to insert Monster Cable compression fittings which are made of a better material, and fit the same. But, I ran out of those on the 5th distro box.
I had the same problem with the KK blocks you had...unfortunately. The owner of the company is a neat guy, but the distro blocks leave a lot to be desired. They are very 'cheap' feeling and they didn't hold the wire very well either. We used them in an install on a 1967 Chevelle that went to SEMA one year and I vowed never to use their distro block again. I still use their wire, but I won't use their blocks anymore.

*edit* I really like, and have had great success with, Kicker and Stinger blocks. I really love those little Stinger "T" blocks because they make them in a LOT of different configurations and they're tiny so they hide and/or mount easily.
 

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The deletes were because the OP STATED that he does not want them, they are ruled out, if you wanna know what we think of the reference series search your username or start a new thread..... after I click reply there will be another delete and edit.

Do you own a shop chad ?
 
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