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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, new to the forum and new to car audio. I had never heard any decent car audio in my 2 decades of driving and had never had any interest in it. The piece of crap car I'm using as my commuter came with an older jvc hu, some alpine type S 6.5 coaxials and the wiring in place for a sub/amp. That was more than adequate for what I wanted. Someone I worked with upgraded their stereo and gave me some castoffs. A cheap amp and 10" sub in a sealed box. I liked the bass! Not to mention how his stereo setup sounded.

Months later; I've got a JVC KDA725 (a big improvement in SQ over the older jvc hu), still have the Alpine coaxials, Alpine MRPM500 amp, and Kicker 10" L3 in their enclosure. I've recently been given 2 sets of components; a set of type S 6.5 and a set of JL C2 5.25. I like the sound of the C2s over the Alpine and both will fit in my old Mazda. I figure the my old Alpines and these new Alpine components can go in wifey's kid hauler/grocery getter.

Now for the questions;

I want to put these C2 components in my car. Mazda BG, lower front of the door panels. The tweeter can be clocked about 11 o'clock and 2" from the woofer for a flush mount. I don't want to use the crossovers that came with the set. I want to run the woofer off the rear channels and the tweeters off the front channels of my hu. I've been an electronic hobbyist for a long time and figure making my own hi-pass and low-pass filters would be simple enough, and inexpensive. Is this reasonable? I can't find any information about what the frequency points are for this, can any body help with this? JL advertises the C2 components crossover to have a first order low pass and a second order high pass. Would sticking with a first order low pass and second order high pass make the most sense, or should that be changed? I've read through everything over at the12volt.com and there is some pretty cool info here.
However now I need some advise!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
To be able to split the tweeters and woofers to separate channels, give me some more control over how my system sounds.
 

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There are crossover calculators all over the net that can figure the caps/etc you need, you need to know the impedance of the speaker first and frequency you want.

Does the HU have any crossovers in it?

I would recommend you get your hands on a 4ch amp it will work far better. You should be able to find a quality known brand 4x50rms for $40 or less. HU is about 18rms per channel is all they can make off 12v. It will sound better, you could get an amp with crossovers though not many will do tweeters, or get an older crossover to use if your HU will not cross that high. Personally I would use the passives and get an EQ first, but its up to you. Cutting the highs on the EQ will cut the tweeters, and they already engineered the passive crossovers for you and specifically for those drivers.

What you need is bi-amp crossovers, I don't know if they were made for that model comp set. They will let you amp the tweet and mid separately. But passive crossovers are made depending on the impedance of the drivers, so a set from some other speakers may not work right.
 

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There are crossover calculators all over the net that can figure the caps/etc you need, you need to know the impedance of the speaker first and frequency you want.
That was one of my questions, what's the crossover point or frequency that splits the tweets and woofers. Found many calculators, it's pretty basic math as well. As a package they are 4ohm, but have not looked to see if they are wired in series or parallel thru the crossovers.

sqshoestring said:
Does the HU have any crossovers in it?
It does, and this was one of the criteria that I looked at while looking for my current HU. It's crude though, I picked my JVC HU based on other criteria. It has one high pass for the front and rear speaker channels, and one low pass filter for the sub channel.

sqshoestring said:
I would recommend you get your hands on a 4ch amp it will work far better. You should be able to find a quality known brand 4x50rms for $40 or less. HU is about 18rms per channel is all they can make off 12v. It will sound better, you could get an amp with crossovers though not many will do tweeters, or get an older crossover to use if your HU will not cross that high.
I'm contemplating a 4ch amp, and think the MRP-F300 would look sweet beside what I've got. This is out of budget, and over my amperage limit for my stock alternator. I've got about $100; if I could do amp, 2ch crossover, and alternator upgrade that would be fantastic! Probably not gonna happen.

sqshoestring said:
Personally I would use the passives and get an EQ first, but its up to you. Cutting the highs on the EQ will cut the tweeters, and they already engineered the passive crossovers for you and specifically for those drivers.
Why, and how. I'm sorry but I don't understand. Do you mean use the crossovers for the woofers and an EQ for the tweeters (or vice versa)? Can I do this? I can diagnose and repair anything on my car, however I'm damned ignorant on this subject and I'm learning as I go. I figure I need to start asking questions so I stop spending on what I don't need, and make less mistakes.

sqshoestring said:
What you need is bi-amp crossovers, I don't know if they were made for that model comp set. They will let you amp the tweet and mid separately. But passive crossovers are made depending on the impedance of the drivers, so a set from some other speakers may not work right.
That would be perfect! Not something I could find, and looking for this was what started me down this path.

Oh, and Thanks for the response!
 
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