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Discussion Starter #1
So I just installed some Kappas as component speakers in my 2007 Mustang. The rears were definitely a ***** to install having to remove the quarter panels that Mustangs have.

Now I went to a professional shop to have my Kappa 5 Channel amp installed with a Reference Sub 1060w, just one 12 within a custom Mustang enclosure that fits perfectly and allows me access to the spare.

Sad news however, my Kappa 5 just blew by a loud pop followed by all the signals just going to my rear left component speaker. I'm hearing that's basically normal as a refurbished amp as it's really hard to have them working once it enters the refurbished phase. Most shops will not buy and install refurbished amps because they simply don't last as long as new ones, heh, go figure?

Anyway, I want to do this and please correct me if my steps are not right:

I want to replace the 5 channel amp with a 4 channel amp and a mono amp -

I bought this:

Ground distribution block:
db Link GB448 Ground Distribution Block w/ 4 AWG In + 8 AWG Out

Power distribution block: - AGU Fused
DB Link NFB3428 AGU Fuse Block w/ 4 AWG In + 8 AWG Out

A Rockford Fosgate Punch P400-4 Channel Amp
A Rockford Fosgate Prime R500-1 500W Amp

I was thinking this would be my setup:

#1 - Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. I was just thinking using a Ratcheting Bit Screwdriver set to remove the terminal. Mind you the fuse and holder are about 8 inches from the battery.

Question - Do I need to remove the fuse from the fuse holder after the negative has be disconnected from the battery or can I just leave it in there the whole time the negative is disconnected? Can it be in there once I connect the negative again?


#2 - I was thinking using the 4 Gauge Power Wire going to the Power Distro Block that uses AGU fuses.

Question - Which AGU fuse would be the proper one to use with the amps above?

#3 - I was thinking using the ground from the 4 Gauge Ground to some bolt, I assume the pro installed it under the seat or near it - take the 4 wire to the ground distro block and have the 8 going to each amp.

Question - Is it better to run Ground Distro Block or should I make just 2 wires that are 4 gauge going to a bolt?

Also, remote wire, I can just take the one installed and put it in one amp, then connect another wire from that wire to the other amp without a fire starting?

This is what I'm mainly concerned about, I was quoted 80 bucks to do all of this professionally. Should I just pay the 80?

Thanks,
Jon
 

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1) I usually leave the fuse intact when I remove the negative terminal, the circuit it open so no current can flow to it anyways

2) Basic Car Audio Electronics very useful website, use the window on the right side to find the topic ;)

3) In my experience it doesnt matter, some use a block because it makes it cleaner and more organized looking

4) It is up to you if you want to pay, do you feel confident or a DIYer? If not, just pay and forget about it. I would say that what you are trying to do on your own is rather simple
 

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Do the work yourself, its more satisfying and if something goes wrong you know where to look. Use a distro, looks cleaner plus if you want to add accessories or another amp down the line it will be easier. IMO use 0 gauge, this way its one and done you won't have to upgrage If you decide you want more power down the line. Even though there's no immediate plans for upgrades think down the line it will save time and money. As with everyone else the fulfillment of a satisfying setup is short lived.

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Discussion Starter #5
I have one more question - I bought these:

Ground distribution block:
db Link GB448 Ground Distribution Block w/ 4 AWG In + 8 AWG Out

Power distribution block: - AGU Fused
DB Link NFB3428 AGU Fuse Block w/ 4 AWG In + 8 AWG Out

I also bought KnuKoncepts 8 Gauge wire and it doesn't fit for the 8 Out. How much wire can be exposed? It's just the sleeve that is hindering the wire from entering the blocks.
 

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This seems to be very similar to my first install. I would say if you have the free time, I would do the research and work yourself. It isn't too hard, and it makes the end product so much nicer!

Disconnecting the negative cable is sufficient for you to safely work on the stereo. Just remember that whenever you work on your stereo and wiring you should disconnect the battery or remove the fuse, I learned the hard way that forgetting this will cost you an amp or a possible electrical fire.

Basic Car Audio Electronics is a great site. You should definitely read through it, it will teach you a lot about wiring and electrical specs that may help you a lot through the installs.

Four gauge wire running back to the distro block, then 8 gauge to the amps would work for your setup. But as duro78 mentioned, if you feel you will want to upgrade down the road, it may be worth the extra money to run 2 gauge or 0/1 gauge back to the back to save you time and money later on.

My amps are not located close to each other, so I run my grounds to their own bolt. However if they are right next to each other, and you think it would look neater and cleaner, using the ground distribution block would be a good choice.

You would be fine if you run a remote from the HU to one of the amps, and then another wire from that amp to the other. I have done this in the past with my system, but you want to ensure that the connections are safe and secure, and try and keep it looking clean.

This would be a great learning experience (and most likely a very rewarding and enjoyable one!) for you if you decide to DIY. If you ever get stumped with a question or problem, you have everyone on this forum to help you through it! Please let us know what you decide to do, and take some pics along the way and share the build with us. I'd love to see how this goes!

What vehicle is this install going to be in?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What vehicle is this install going to be in?
I appreciate the response, so basically I would remove the negative terminal and then the fuse for the positive before I connected the power to the amps?

So this is the order:

Remove Negative Terminal - Remove Fuse from Holder - Disconnect Amp - Reconnect Amps with Blocks - Install Fuse to Holder - Reconnect Negative Terminal.

This is going in a V6 2007 Mustang.
 

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Use a wire reducer or just trim it

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I have one more question - I bought these:

Ground distribution block:
db Link GB448 Ground Distribution Block w/ 4 AWG In + 8 AWG Out

Power distribution block: - AGU Fused
DB Link NFB3428 AGU Fuse Block w/ 4 AWG In + 8 AWG Out

I also bought KnuKoncepts 8 Gauge wire and it doesn't fit for the 8 Out. How much wire can be exposed? It's just the sleeve that is hindering the wire from entering the blocks.
Get a wire reducer or just trim the wire.

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So this is the order:
Remove Negative Terminal - Remove Fuse from Holder - Disconnect Amp - Reconnect Amps with Blocks - Install Fuse to Holder - Reconnect Negative Terminal.
If you follow that order, you are guaranteed to keep your equipment and yourself safe from any problems. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you follow that order, you are guaranteed to keep your equipment and yourself safe from any problems. :)
Thanks, I researched and researched and no one really goes in depth following those steps. I'm glad to have cleared it up and I'll post pics once I get my mono amp in the mail.
 

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That is strange, I've had good luck with refurb stuff. Pretty sure my kappa 4 is and has no problems yet. They are supposed to bench refurbs and that is something they don't always do with new products.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Get a wire reducer or just trim the wire.
I'm using one single 4 from battery to a distro block that outputs 8 Guage - I don't see a wire reducer for 8! I want to go this way and have it clean like that, is there such thing as a 8 gauge wire terminal I can attach to an 8 gauge power distro slot?

Maybe I can just use a 4 to 8 wire reducer by inserting the 8 wire into the 4 slot?
 

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You could use a 4-8ga block to break the 8ga down to 10ga (or whatever size you want). It would just have to be tightened down more.

I have one distribution block that I run a 4ga into, then I run two 8ga and one 10ga wire out of it. There's no problem with it.
 

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I'm using one single 4 from battery to a distro block that outputs 8 Guage - I don't see a wire reducer for 8! I want to go this way and have it clean like that, is there such thing as a 8 gauge wire terminal I can attach to an 8 gauge power distro slot?

Maybe I can just use a 4 to 8 wire reducer by inserting the 8 wire into the 4 slot?
If I read correctly it's the wire jacket that is in the way. Just trim it back until you can fully insert the bare wire. Tighten it down and you're done. You don't need to buy a reducer or terminal.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I appreciate the response, so basically I would remove the negative terminal and then the fuse for the positive before I connected the power to the amps?

So this is the order:

Remove Negative Terminal - Remove Fuse from Holder - Disconnect Amp - Reconnect Amps with Blocks - Install Fuse to Holder - Reconnect Negative Terminal.

This is going in a V6 2007 Mustang.
I just have a concern about these steps in order to start. Would just disconnecting the battery negative be suffice? Isn't the charge broken once either or terminal is removed? Just want to clear this up before I start :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If I read correctly it's the wire jacket that is in the way. Just trim it back until you can fully insert the bare wire. Tighten it down and you're done. You don't need to buy a reducer or terminal.
Yes, it's just the wire jacket that protects it. How much wire can be trim to go into the distro block? It looks like about 1 inch may need to be inserted to reach the wall of the block.
 

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Yes, it's just the wire jacket that protects it. How much wire can be trim to go into the distro block? It looks like about 1 inch may need to be inserted to reach the wall of the block.
Lay the wire over top of the terminal and eyeball the length of the jacket to cut off. You may end up with 3/4" or so of bare wire. The main concerns are to have enough "meat" in the terminal for the set screw to grab and to not have so much wire showing that you could accidentally lay something down that would short the power and ground.
 

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I just have a concern about these steps in order to start. Would just disconnecting the battery negative be suffice? Isn't the charge broken once either or terminal is removed? Just want to clear this up before I start :)
Disconnecting the negative cable from the car battery will stop any current from flowing through the power wires, this would suffice. The additional steps would just be extra precautions. To be safe I just leave the fuses pulled along with the negative terminal while I work on my setup.

As for fitting the wire into the block, it is very simple. Simply eyeball about how much wire will fit into the slot, and cut the jacket back. Then you can slide it into the block. The two main priorities is to make sure that enough wire is tucked into the slot that the screw will securely clamp down on the wire, and that you don't leave bare wire sticking out of the block (that would leave the possibility of something touching it and shorting the power and ground.).
 
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