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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi,
So I pulled the trigger on the Dayton dsp and no longer have any midbass in the front components.
Originally I was using an LC7i coming off my factory Subaru headunit (18’ STI). From there to my Arc 5 channel to Morel 2 way comps in front with there passive crossovers and the bass was great. I was only using the main set of preamps out of the LC7i and didn’t use accubass which I thought was only for the sub channel anyway.
I know the speakers are good and not blown.

I ditched the LC7i for the dsp. I’m certain I have all my Dayton settings correct.
80-2500hz midbass
2500-20000 tweeters
40-200hz sub
I only set these as the base crossover points will need to fine tune but not sure where I went wrong.

Headunit is set to flat
Amp crossovers full range
Sub bass seems to be good
I did not try flipping polarity on mids but pretty sure they’re in phase. I love KnuKonceptz but I hate these blue speaker wire, so hard to find positive/negative.
I can provide more info if needed
 

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Accubass isn't for just the sub, it restores or makes up for bass roll-off from stock headunit at upper volumes. That's something the Dayton can't do. Are you sure that accubass was completely off... both threshold and level knobs completely left?

Regardless, you'll still need the LC7i unless you set the gains to attain max output before the headunit starts to roll-off the bass.

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!
 

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40-200hz on the sub will probably cancel out your midbass

"No longer" infers you once did, so I'm gonna assume the install is ok.

Best advice I can give is to just mess with everything that effects the sub to midbass transition, the frequency, the slope, try overlapping & underlapping the point (people on here will say not to do this but w/e).

Also of course start messing with the time alignment.
 

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Good eye. Not sure how I overlooked the 200hz lpf on the sub... then again I really need to get my reading glasses replaced.
Correct that 200hz to 70-80hz, but what is the 40hz about? Subsonic filter? What slopes are you using?


Use this site with a tape measure to get things rolling.


From there you'll need to start working on EQ'ing left & right to really get things at an optimum. Hopefully you have a mic and a way to use a RTA.

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Accubass isn't for just the sub, it restores or makes up for bass roll-off from stock headunit at upper volumes. That's something the Dayton can't do. Are you sure that accubass was completely off... both threshold and level knobs completely left?

Regardless, you'll still need the LC7i unless you set the gains to attain max output before the headunit starts to roll-off the bass.

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!
Thanks for replying
I had the accubass and threshold set both in the middle. I thought it was only for the sub channel so I might see the problem.
But how come my subwoofer has good bass without the LC7i?
I’m not sure if the factory headunit has roll off of just the front speakers do not play all frequencies.
I had no midbass at any volume before clipping. I even tried summing the rear speaker signal with the DSP with no improvement.
 

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Set everything -24db LR.
80 hz LPF on the sub. Lower the HPF or cancel it if sealed box.
100 hz HPF on the mids.
Do an accurate TA.
Remember, you only need a left and a right full range signal to the DSP. If any other signal input, make sure it is full range, unless it is a dedicated sub input for the sub output only.
 

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Thanks for replying
I had the accubass and threshold set both in the middle. I thought it was only for the sub channel so I might see the problem.
But how come my subwoofer has good bass without the LC7i?
I’m not sure if the factory headunit has roll off of just the front speakers do not play all frequencies.
I had no midbass at any volume before clipping. I even tried summing the rear speaker signal with the DSP with no improvement.
If the LC7i threshold and level knobs were in the middle, Accubass was on. There's no dedicated sub output on the LC7I, just 3 pairs of output with channel 3 having remote level to act as a sub level. The LC7I has no crossover and is not intended to be one. That said, Accubsss is not a one frequency boost. It works from 50-125hz.. which spreads into the upper bass range on all channels.

You have a Subaru.... they're known to roll the bass off. I suggest to put the LC7I back in, but it also might be time to seek help in setting everything up and tuning. You have nice gear, you don't want to damage anything if you're not sure of what to do.



Man & Machine... Power Extreme!
 

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It could be as simple as a flipped speaker wire. And that is easy to test. Play just the left midbass. If it sounds ok by itself, then u have a phase issue w/ another speaker. Then add in the right midbass. It should sound a little better. If not, then u know the issueis w/ 1 of the midbasses. Gradually add in the other drivers until u notice the problem, and that will help u figure out where the issue is located.

If a single midbass doesn't sound ok, then it's probably a tuning issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So I installed the LC7i again with the dsp and set accubass with no midbass improvement.
Strange I tell ya. It’s a base 6 speaker radio with no external amp so figure it’s just a flat signal. I don’t have the tool to measure the signal unfortunately.
 

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So I installed the LC7i again with the dsp and set accubass with no midbass improvement.
Strange I tell ya. It’s a base 6 speaker radio with no external amp so figure it’s just a flat signal. I don’t have the tool to measure the signal unfortunately.
It's almost certainly NOT a flat, fullrange signal. Keeping the OEM head unit is always risky, especially if you don't know for sure what kind of processing it's doing.
 

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So you set accubass this time although you thought weren't using it the first time. How is it set now? If it sounded fuller with the previous setup, I would return it back to what it was. To track down the issue it would be important to make only one change at a time.

Once that has been done, have you tried flipping phase of one mid (not both) in the DSP app since you say you have a hard time seeing the wire polarity markings?

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update
I replaced my factory headunit with an aftermarket Sony. I just have the Dayton dsp going into my Arc amp and for some reason my midbass is lacking on my morels.
I have the Dayton dsp crossing the Morel mids at 55hz to 3200hz
Morel tweeters 3200hz to 20000
Morel sub 22hz to 80hz

There’s no midbass and I know the speakers are good. I have the Arc amp running band pass for the mids. I know polarity is not an issue. I did adjust the mid crossover to 80hz but it doesn’t help. Mids are rated from 52hz I believe.

Normally the mids hit hard for a 6.5” when using the passive crossover.
Trust me the Morel mids normally hit very hard. Also the headunit has the crossovers turned off. I know tuning is not easy but I’m just trying to get the speakers to atleast sound as good as with the passive crossover.
 

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I don't remember the details, but remember reading that the RCA jacks are mislabeled on some of the Dayton DSP-408's. Any chance this is related to your issue? Just throwing that out there...

Maybe post some screenshots of your DSP-408 channel routing screen to see if anyone else sees anything....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yea I’ll have to get a screen shot. I never knew that mixup about the Dayton. When I do adjust the crossovers on the mid I do hear a difference from each crossover point so I think it’s correct.

Of course I took the dsp out so I’m gonna reinstall it in a bit.
 

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It is the high level input on the 408 that is mislabeled and/or backwards. The RCA inputs should be correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
It is the high level input on the 408 that is mislabeled and/or backwards. The RCA inputs should be correct.
Yes you’re right. I totally forgot about that. I was wondering why they made the left front input 4 but right rear input 1. When I was running the high level inputs I was thinking about re-pinning the harness. Thankfully I didnt.

I’m reinstalling the Dayton dsp in the morning to try to figure out what’s going on with this midbass.
 

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I think your best best is to start from the beginning, and work through everything again. There is absolutely no reason removing the passive crossovers would reduce the midbass, unless you screwed something up in the process, have a filter set, or reduced the power to the speakers because of your DSP settings.
 
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