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Discussion Starter #1
Here is the breakdown:

Vehicle: 2016 F-150 super crew
Front stage: Hertz Mille Legend MLK 165.3
Rear fill: JL C3650

Amp: Zapco Z-150.4 II

DSP/integration: Rockford DSR 1

So here is the scoop. I am not happy with the front stage as the mid-bass is damn near non-existent. Everything is sound deadened (second skin, and MLV) but the mid-bass up front is just poor. I found the tweeters excessively sharp, but I can tune this out. The MLK 165.3 set sounds just OK.

If I could speak to what I am kind of looking for, I had the first version of the Image Dynamics CXS64 way back in the day and I MISS THEM DEARLY! Best tweeter and mid range I could have asked for!

I have tuned for what seems like hours, but I can't seem to improve the mid-bass output of the front stage.

Thinking of replacing the front woofers with a set of Stevens Audio MB6-2 (2 ohm) woofers.

I would like to keep the x-overs and tweeters in place at this time. (budget constraints)

Please advise on the following:

1. Will it cause any issues to hook up a 2ohm woofer to the x-over instead of the 4 ohm Mille driver?

2. Would the Stevens driver be a good choice at this price range?

3. Any other advice on things I should be looking at here?

Thanks!
~Infinity
 

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Are you using the factory HU? What kind of processing do you have?

I have the MLK 165.3 component set and the midbass is amazing. Every review of these components praises their low frequency reproduction. Are you certain that there isn’t something in your signal path canceling out the lower frequencies? If so, you could throw the best midbass woofers in existence at it and it wouldn’t make a difference.

I’ve owned several “higher end” component sets from JL, Alpine, old school MB quartz, and Memphis. The Mille Legends are the best I’ve owned hands down. I have about 100 watts going to each set of tweets and woofers. I’m using the same passive crossover.

Edit: I just saw where you listed the amp.
 

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Are you using the factory HU? What kind of processing do you have?

Edit: I just saw where you listed the amp.
Processing: Rockford Fosgate DSR 1
Yes factory HU.
There must be something going on in the signal processing. Again, those woofers are excellent midbass drivers. The 1650.3 ML set has the exact same woofers with a little cosmetic treatment. They’re the best Hertz makes, and are recognized for their midbass output.

I’m not an expert, but I’d bet there’s something in the DSR-1 settings, on the amplifier, or on the passive crossover that is causing the issue. Can you list out your settings on each so the professionals on here can review them. They’ll spot an issue very quickly. You owe it to yourself to ensure everything is set appropriately before spending hundreds on new woofers.
 

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where in canada are you
 

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I'm not going to suggest you run out and replace drivers yet.

I had the original CHAMELEON set from ID and loved the nx30 tweeter as well as the midbass so i know what you are looking for.

You have no sub? what are your XO points on the mid?
 

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From first hand experience though, I promise you those mids will produce. I can turn my sub completely off and some that listen still believe there’s a sub playing somewhere and that I’m jacking with them. My rear speakers are the 165.3 PRO’s ran off channels 3 and 4 of a four channel Rockford T400X4ab. We have very similar installs. What sub are you running?
 

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Go see Keith McCumber at SoundsGood caraudio.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm not going to suggest you run out and replace drivers yet.

I had the original CHAMELEON set from ID and loved the nx30 tweeter as well as the midbass so i know what you are looking for.

You have no sub? what are your XO points on the mid?
I cooked the subs a week back by over powering them (on purpose). Helix E12W x 2, rated at 400W RMS. Threw 700W to them (2 Ohms for kicks) got them free in a trade and I wanted to see how long they would last (3 months).

Amp is a Zapco Z2kD-II for subs. I will be getting new subs shortly. This is yet another topic I should probably touch on. Rockford T1S1-12 x 2 600W RMS, show them 700W, or dumb the amp down to 4 ohm and get the Rockford P3SD2-12. But I digress to the matter at hand.

The x-over and EQ for the front are as shown in the pics attached.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Go see Keith McCumber at SoundsGood caraudio.
The round trip to Vancouver on the ferry with the vehicle is about $200.00, this is not economical. (Victoria is on an island) If I happen to be in Vancouver, I may do this, but that's is not gonna be for a while for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I listen to all genres of music (no classical or country). EDM and tracks from Chemical Brothers and Daft Punk, the low end is missing a ton, and the bass distorts at a volume of 25 (the HU is clip free signal to 28 and clip free from the processor is the same, as well as gains). This is all set with a O-scope from frequencies of 60hz-10khz

Is this a mechanical limitation?

If I turn down the X-over below the point shown, at 25 volume, bass farts in some songs, (EDM, rap, heavy bass tracks).

What am I missing.
 

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What does the installation on the doors look like? did you sound deaden all three layers with good sound deadener (dynamat, resonix?)

is the construction solid and sealed to the door?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What does the installation on the doors look like? did you sound deaden all three layers with good sound deadener (dynamat, resonix?)

is the construction solid and sealed to the door?
Yes, I currently do not have images of this. The door is sealed pretty well I would say. I used Second Skin Damplifier and Second Skin Overkill.

This process took me about 3 days, I gutted the truck, did all 4 doors, rear panel of the cab, and floor back to front. I did not do the roof (sunroof).
 

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Yes, I currently do not have images of this. The door is sealed pretty well I would say. I used Second Skin Damplifier and Second Skin Overkill.
Outter Layer (yes/no)
inner Layer (yes/no)
door card(yes/no)

what's the baffle made from? MDF/Baltic/Plastic(Metra junk)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Outter Layer (yes/no)
inner Layer (yes/no)
door card(yes/no)

what's the baffle made from? MDF/Baltic/Plastic(Metra junk)
Outer layer (door skin inside door) - Damplifier
Inner layer (interior door panel) - Damplifier + Overkill
Door card - Damplifier + Overkill

No rear baffle installed behind the speaker or FAST rings, but all speaker adapters were ordered from Audio Designs & Custom Graphics. Not sure the material. Looks to be some sort of ABS?
 

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I cooked the subs a week back by over powering them (on purpose). Helix E12W x 2, rated at 400W RMS. Threw 700W to them (2 Ohms for kicks) got them free in a trade and I wanted to see how long they would last (3 months).

Amp is a Zapco Z2kD-II for subs. I will be getting new subs shortly. This is yet another topic I should probably touch on. Rockford T1S1-12 x 2 600W RMS, show them 700W, or dumb the amp down to 4 ohm and get the Rockford P3SD2-12. But I digress to the matter at hand.

The x-over and EQ for the front are as shown in the pics attached.
Hi-passing the mids at 160hz is the reason you have no midbass.
 
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