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Human (not a robot)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my 2006 Mercury Milan. I pretty much love this car. Minimalist Milan is my attempt at a witty title and it sums up my approach to the system. The equipment I have has been accumulated over my 15 or so years in car audio. It has all seen at least 2 cars, some of it 3.
Equipment List:
Head unit - factory 6 CD in-dash MP3
Front stage - Diamond Audio M661 6.5" component set (passive)
Rear fill - Alpine 5x7 Type S coaxials (faded down to nearly nothing)
Sub - Diamond Audio M5 12" SVC
Amp for front - PPI PC 275 (hi-level to RCA inputs)
Sub amp - Alpine MRV-T757

The car:



I am working on this as time allows. The plan is to install the front stage first. Then the wiring, the amps, and finally build the fiberglass sub box for the trunk. I have no timeline on how long all this is going to take me and I have set no deadline, this may not be a good thing. I have had the car since August of last year and just got around to installing the front stage.

Here is what Ford/Visteon put in the front doors, 5x7 component set

the woofer and crossover. The woofer is a shallow mount variety compared to the rear door speaker can't really figure out why because there is a ton of room behind them.

The new speakers going in their place Diamond M661 from 2000 or '01 I think.





I'll post more tomorrow when I get more time.
I am open to any and all suggestions here. I want to do this install "Right the first time" and I know there is a lot of knowledge here on this forum.
Thanks for looking :cheesy:
 

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Human (not a robot)
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here's some more that I've been working on lately.....:rolleyes:

I have deadened both front doors now. I got a little busy doing the work and not documenting it sorry about that but it wasn't all that exciting. :laugh:

That picture was when I was just starting but I got 1 full layer and doubled up some areas of the outer door skin. Then did the back and front of this panel, the removable inner door skin.

Chuylers Mazda6 install work log on how to remove the inner door skin works the same way for this car. THANKS CHUYLER! :thumbsup:

Before I get started on the door speaker install this is a time when I would like to thank FoMoCo for making the door panel the way they did.... :mean: can you sense the sarcasm? Well they decided that aiming the door speaker down and towards the firewall was a good idea. Seen here.


 

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Human (not a robot)
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The door panel is also formed this way so I just decided to go with it and make it work the best way I could. So I started with everyone's favorite HDPE cutting boards.

Is your speaker baffle DISHWASHER SAFE?????? and does it come with a LIFETIME WARRANTY?????? :laugh:


I made a template a long time ago when these speakers were installed in my Ranger and decided to dig it out to use again.

After tracing out the template and cutting it out with a jigsaw I was left with this.
 

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Human (not a robot)
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Because the cutting boards are very thin (yet still stiff) I used t-nuts. Also the threaded inserts I found would have stuck out on one side or the other.


I used 4 t-nuts and had to space them the way you see because they have to fit the 5x7 hole that looks like this.


I debated on even showing you guys this for the flaming I will get (and probably deserve) but here goes anyway.
Right now these speakers are running on deck power and running new speaker wire into the door is in the plan but OMG it's gonna be a mega-b*tch. So I looked at the factory harness for the speaker and filed down some pins to fit in there for a solution.

Inserted into the speaker plug

The speaker mounted in the door


That's all the pictures I have for now. I'm outside working on it most of the day so check back later for more updates.
 

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The speaker mounted in the door
Is that a gap above the speaker between the speaker and the baffle? If so, your midbass performance will definitely suffer.
 

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just FYI there is a Metra speaker adapter that SHOULD work for you...72-5600 visually looks very close.. might check it out.

Rob
 

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Right now these speakers are running on deck power and running new speaker wire into the door is in the plan but OMG it's gonna be a mega-b*tch.
Ah, the infamous Molex Plug. I got lucky, my Ford was built at the Kentucky plant during 04-05 so I dont have one of those damn plugs, just a rubber boot. Lucky me. :)

I had to deal with the molex when installing a system in my brother's Escape though...it was a pain to say the least.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ah, the infamous Molex Plug. I got lucky, my Ford was built at the Kentucky plant during 04-05 so I dont have one of those damn plugs, just a rubber boot. Lucky me. :)

I had to deal with the molex when installing a system in my brother's Escape though...it was a pain to say the least.
Any suggestions? I have seen people drill out the plugs in other cars :eek: I'm pretty scared to do that. There are no other Fusions/Milans/Zephyrs on here or Cardomain. Lots of these cars but mostly just show 2-12's in a box in the trunk :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I got a question before I go too much further. I bought some Van Ayken non-hardening clay. Should I use this clay around the plastic speaker mount pictured here?



What would I need to do to make the clay stay and provide a noticeable benefit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If you guys will excuse me for a few minutes I need to ***** about myself. I have worked a little bit on this project. I have ran the power, speaker, remote, and RCA wires but have not terminated anything. I spent from 10:30 am until 5pm yesterday working on my amp rack and got nothing visible accomplished.
My plan for the amp rack is just a board mounted to the rear deck and the amps screwed to that. I had the board cut out and I thought all the wire holes drilled so I carpeted it. Well I had missed a pretty big important wire hole so I had to cut through the carpet and drill that hole. The amp rack will be upside down so I am trying to feed the wires through the holes and hold up the board and remember everything so I think I have made this the most complicated way I could have.

I need some motivation. :mean:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
A minor update....I finished the amp rack :)

Like I said in my b*tch post above its a carpeted board mounted under the rear deck.

Here are some finished product pics




Here is the PPI PC275 mounted to the rack

This is where the Alpine MRV-T757 will be mounted when I get my sub box built


That was all today. I got 4ga. through the firewall. I had to take the battery out to get to the spot where it goes through. I got all the speaker wires hooked up but I have no signal.
The PC275 has hi-level inputs by putting RCA's onto regular speaker wire and plugging it into the RCA inputs. I tried it but got no signal. I quit for the day at that time. I think its my homemade RCA-speaker level adapters so I'm gonna pick up a twisted pair cable and cut the ends off to use instead. I also noticed when I tried this that none of my speakers worked so there is also the chance that I tapped into the wrong wires for speaker level input....

BTW it was hot as anything today, my neighbor recorded a max of 103 and 100 at 5pm
 

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I got a question before I go too much further. I bought some Van Ayken non-hardening clay. Should I use this clay around the plastic speaker mount pictured here?



What would I need to do to make the clay stay and provide a noticeable benefit?
What clay does is provide a little stiffness in this situation as well as maybe making some of the lower octave resonances not seem so noticeable then before. Kind of goes on the "heavier stuff is harder to set into motion then lighter stuff" type of science.

Clay has wax in it so once you press it down it's not going to move. I'd pack both sides of the adapter (in and out) and also pack some back behind it on the inside part of the door.
Looks like that steel section it's mounted to might resonate against the red part of the door. If so, you can either decouple it using thin foam, spread your clay out to about 1/4" along the whole thing to make it harder to move, or do both. I personally think clay is a lousy decoupler and would never recommend using it as such.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I HAVE SIGNAL TO MY AMP! I got the speaker wires from the factory deck run into the RCA inputs and I now have an amplified front stage. I'm pretty excited. It's been ~5 years since I've had a real system in a car.

I hope to work on my sub box some this weekend. It's already about 30-50% complete.

This one is temporary until I can get a fiberglass box molded into the side panel.
 
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