this is a room measurement but it should get you started. he also covers some stuff for the waterfall plot. Saves me from typing...Hmm, not sure how to do that. I've seen the waterfall option on REW but haven't fiddled with it. I'll pull it up and look for the sweep option.
Tried the windshield, the dash, all around the speaker pods and the speaker itself. The only thing that's helped slightly is pressing hard on the metal surround of the speaker, but it was just a slight improvement. I swear it sounds like something's rattling around in the speaker or pod. Would the speaker wire vibrating in the pod be enough to cause a null that severe?
You probably have the signal inputs mixed up. When you bridge the amp, the front channels combine and the rear two channels combine. So if you are using Front as the Left Midbass, and Rear as the Right Midbass, then the Front L/R input need to be the same (LT Midbass DSP >> Y adapter >> Front two RCAs).My question: will it harm a 4-channel amp if you only use two channels? I have these bridged at the moment, but I think it's making them mono (the literature with the amp was unclear on this) and I want to have independent driver volume control. I think this speaker bar is an open chamber between the two drivers, so there could be leakage between the two, but it doesn't seem like muting one channel is actually stopping each driver from firing.
Are you running these as a real three way? What are the Xover points for the mid range and sub? Why not cross these 80-200, subs 0-60, and mids 200+. The midrange and midbass xover should even out the bump in response around 250Hz. The midbass should have enough headroom to handle some EQ around the problem null at 170Hz.
2 channel mode is for duplicating the L/R signal to the front and rear channels. You need to run 4 channel mode and use Y adapters.