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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
Well, think one of my speakers blew. The passenger side woofer now buzzes like a wasp nest whenever anything is played under 160 Hz. Sigh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
Think something may have come loose inside of the pod or attached to the pod that is buzzing? Or are you sure it's the speaker?
I'm really not sure. It was sudden. This morning I noticed it buzzing, thought it was the same resonance issue, but realized it was only that speaker. The other one is fine. I'll pull the speaker tomorrow, but I'm not sure what would have detached other than maybe a piece of CLD.

I'm not entirely sure how to go about testing the speaker.
 

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I'm really not sure. It was sudden. This morning I noticed it buzzing, thought it was the same resonance issue, but realized it was only that speaker. The other one is fine. I'll pull the speaker tomorrow, but I'm not sure what would have detached other than maybe a piece of CLD.

I'm not entirely sure how to go about testing the speaker.
Lightly push on cone and feel for any sort of scratching. Other than that, inspect the speaker. Surround, spider, tinsil leads, connections to speaker wire. Sometimes something as simple as the speaker wire moving and touching the cone can cause a buzzing issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
Lightly push on cone and feel for any sort of scratching. Other than that, inspect the speaker. Surround, spider, tinsil leads, connections to speaker wire. Sometimes something as simple as the speaker wire moving and touching the cone can cause a buzzing issue.
Ahhhhh, excellent! Thank you! I have hope 😁.
 

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Any speaker mounting wants to be rock solid, both it’s walls and also it’s mounting, I always aim for metal work where possible, it likely doesn’t help that the pod is so small as it naturally resonates around or over 180 and you are playing notes that act on that resonance

Now if you could cut the drivers over 180, say 300hz it would be way less of an issue, but playing around resonance of the enclosure/driver with a less than solid enclosure is never going to work out so well unfortunately
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
Any speaker mounting wants to be rock solid, both it’s walls and also it’s mounting, I always aim for metal work where possible, it likely doesn’t help that the pod is so small as it naturally resonates around or over 180 and you are playing notes that act on that resonance

Now if you could cut the drivers over 180, say 300hz it would be way less of an issue, but playing around resonance of the enclosure/driver with a less than solid enclosure is never going to work out so well unfortunately
Yeah, I'm starting to learn this 😕. I have a tester amp I'm going to install tomorrow (who needs turkey? It's tinker day!) running to the overhead speaker bar, going to see how badly it throws off imaging. Though maybe I should be less concerned with imaging and more concerned with killing that ungodly rattle.

My buddy was checking out the speaker earlier. He pointed out that the enclosures are leaking badly (Can't believe I didn't think of that. I checked my sub box thoroughly for leaks and added sealer to the seams even though there weren't any) and recommended using the butyl later of CLD or window sealing foam strips to make a gasket. It seems like the butyl wouldn't work if I had to pull the speaker and replace it, but the foam seems like it wouldn't be as effective. I could be wrong, and I do have a few square feet of CLD left, so I could easily try it.
 

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Yeah, I'm starting to learn this 😕. I have a tester amp I'm going to install tomorrow (who needs turkey? It's tinker day!) running to the overhead speaker bar, going to see how badly it throws off imaging. Though maybe I should be less concerned with imaging and more concerned with killing that ungodly rattle.

My buddy was checking out the speaker earlier. He pointed out that the enclosures are leaking badly (Can't believe I didn't think of that. I checked my sub box thoroughly for leaks and added sealer to the seams even though there weren't any) and recommended using the butyl later of CLD or window sealing foam strips to make a gasket. It seems like the butyl wouldn't work if I had to pull the speaker and replace it, but the foam seems like it wouldn't be as effective. I could be wrong, and I do have a few square feet of CLD left, so I could easily try it.
I would NOT use butyl to seal against the pod. Can you, yes, but you just stated it's downfall. It's going to be absolute hell to get out and make a mess of your speaker. Most times I've seen people do it, they used way too much and there is a huge amount squished out. Then it ends up all over grills, interior panels, speaker basket, surround, ect.
You really just need something soft around the mounting area. Soft CCF, window gasket foam, thin neoprene sheet, or something of the sort works well. Anything soft that will conform easily.
As far as the leak, I'm assuming you mean where the wires run through? You can use some butyl rope, or butyl pulled from a sheet of CLD to seal that up no problem. It may actually be helping you out a bit by acting like a sort of aperiodic port though. I've heard of people needing to drill a few holes in small pods to help cone backpressure via venting. Typically firing them into something like a pillars stuffed with insulation or carpet though, making them act similar to an aperiodic membrane of sorts. But only one way to find out! Seal it and measure!
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
I would NOT use butyl to seal against the pod. Can you, yes, but you just stated it's downfall. It's going to be absolute hell to get out and make a mess of your speaker. Most times I've seen people do it, they used way too much and there is a huge amount squished out. Then it ends up all over grills, interior panels, speaker basket, surround, ect.
You really just need something soft around the mounting area. Soft CCF, window gasket foam, thin neoprene sheet, or something of the sort works well. Anything soft that will conform easily.
As far as the leak, I'm assuming you mean where the wires run through? You can use some butyl rope, or butyl pulled from a sheet of CLD to seal that up no problem. It may actually be helping you out a bit by acting like a sort of aperiodic port though. I've heard of people needing to drill a few holes in small pods to help cone backpressure via venting. Typically firing them into something like a pillars stuffed with insulation or carpet though, making them act similar to an aperiodic membrane of sorts. But only one way to find out! Seal it and measure!
Ahhh, glad to have that confirmed before i tried it. Just seemed to be a bad move, unless I plan on nearly permanent speakers.

So anything that is soft will do it? Okay, I'll see if the hardware store is open tomorrow 😁.

The leak is around the speaker where it meets the pod. I've felt the air move around it, but I always dismissed it as the air moved by the outer face of the woofer. As soon it was pointed out to me I realized. To be fair, I had mostly inspected it before sealing the wires, so I'm sure that's forcing more air out of the gaps with it being sealed.
 

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Ahhh, glad to have that confirmed before i tried it. Just seemed to be a bad move, unless I plan on nearly permanent speakers.

So anything that is soft will do it? Okay, I'll see if the hardware store is open tomorrow 😁.

The leak is around the speaker where it meets the pod. I've felt the air move around it, but I always dismissed it as the air moved by the outer face of the woofer. As soon it was pointed out to me I realized. To be fair, I had mostly inspected it before sealing the wires, so I'm sure that's forcing more air out of the gaps with it being sealed.
Yeah that will make quite a noise typically. That may be your noise issue right there.
 

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Ahhh, glad to have that confirmed before i tried it. Just seemed to be a bad move, unless I plan on nearly permanent speakers.

So anything that is soft will do it? Okay, I'll see if the hardware store is open tomorrow .

The leak is around the speaker where it meets the pod. I've felt the air move around it, but I always dismissed it as the air moved by the outer face of the woofer. As soon it was pointed out to me I realized. To be fair, I had mostly inspected it before sealing the wires, so I'm sure that's forcing more air out of the gaps with it being sealed.
They sell cork gasket material at Autozone in the performance parts section.
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
Yeah that will make quite a noise typically. That may be your noise issue right there.
Got some inexpensive foam window sealer. Here are my new results:

Computer Screenshot Audio equipment Font Line


Still have to keep my LPF on my sub high to keep that null from dropping too far down, but compare to my previous!

Light Screenshot Slope Line Font


I'm going to see if I have the harness I need to connect this third amp and run the speaker bar, but, man, it definitely looks, and sounds, better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
So, I have joined the active 3-way system group 😊. My overhead speaker bar with 6.5"s is now connected by another 150 x 2 amp. Here are the new results.

Computer Light Black Font Screenshot
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
This my initial measurement, then inputted the proper time measurements, then the speaker bar crossed at 100 - 200 Hz.

Light Computer Font Screenshot Line
 

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Discussion Starter · #157 ·
So, the null is still present (I have a feeling I'll need to do sound treatment to get rid of it), but better. The sound imaging isn't great, but my system no longer has a hollow sound to it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
Measurements for the speaker bar alone.

Light Computer Screenshot Font Line
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
My question: will it harm a 4-channel amp if you only use two channels? I have these bridged at the moment, but I think it's making them mono (the literature with the amp was unclear on this) and I want to have independent driver volume control. I think this speaker bar is an open chamber between the two drivers, so there could be leakage between the two, but it doesn't seem like muting one channel is actually stopping each driver from firing.
 

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My question: will it harm a 4-channel amp if you only use two channels? I have these bridged at the moment, but I think it's making them mono (the literature with the amp was unclear on this) and I want to have independent driver volume control. I think this speaker bar is an open chamber between the two drivers, so there could be leakage between the two, but it doesn't seem like muting one channel is actually stopping each driver from firing.
You probably have the signal inputs mixed up. When you bridge the amp, the front channels combine and the rear two channels combine. So if you are using Front as the Left Midbass, and Rear as the Right Midbass, then the Front L/R input need to be the same (LT Midbass DSP >> Y adapter >> Front two RCAs).
 
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