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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

about to embark on a new enclosure build for a pair of 10" diamonds. I'm trying to save as much space as possible in the boot of my E34, as i have to find room in the side panels for 3 genesis amps, and a fuse/distrobution block. The subs will fire through the ski hatch, and i'm aiming between .55 and .8 cubes sealed per sub. As you will see from the shape, even with precise measurements it will be pretty hard to calculate until its done.



What's annoying is the two large support brackets either side of the hatch. They stop me from building a flatter front. Anyway, i've come up with this idea for a shape




Sorry for the pi$$ poor paint pics lol, but hopefully you get the idea. What i'm most concerned about is making cuts at odd angles, and getting edges to meet up perfectly with the connecting pieces. Also if anyone has any tips, little tricks or general comments, i would appreciate it!

Off to find some woodwork vids on youtube....

Gav
 

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This is not going to be easy any way that you cut the mustard...the first thing that sticks out in my mind might be to go with a thick chickenwire frame and fiberglass it. Can't see your pics either btw.

To make it out of wood this is what you might want to have on hand:
Table saw or general power saw that can do angled cuts
Angle Finder (cuts down on the math)
Sandpaper (helps correct slight miscalculation)
Drill with countersink bit (I think that's what they're called...can't remember right now. But it will help your screws with a flat space to attach to)
Quick Grip clamps (to hold the stuff while you're trying to drill or cut)

That should do it. Good luck with your build.
 

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Yeah, no pics are showing up. My advise, without really being able to see what your working with, is fiber glass.
Not sure of you comfort level in glassing, but if you can, will prob be much easier to deal with odd shapes.
Make what you can out of mdf, birch, or similar. Mainly any large flat spans. Or if your very limited on space, make it all out of glass except your skeleton frame.

Get some pics of the hatch/truck up, and your sketches of what you want. Then we can get a little more specific...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Bummer i shoulda checked the pics worked lol.






Anyways, this should explain it. The 2nd pic is from above, 3rd from the side. The redlines represent the internal angles that can't be seen. Think i'm going to start by making the baffle section and see where i end up.

Thanks guys
 

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Honestly that shouldn't be too hard with mdf. Cuts are a little bit tricky but not too bad. Still fiberglass would be the best solution IMO. Mdf will of course take less time.

With that design you can "cheat" a little. When you cut your upper and lower pieces the best.way to make sure your angles are perfect put the bottom piece down and when you put the side in mark straight out from the point on the botton portion and you should have the perfect joint. If its a Tad off you can always fill the joint with silicone. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks man, appreciate the help. I'd love to do it in FG, especially the baffle section but it would be a little too ambitious for my first experience with glassing. Also i don't think i would gain a massive amount of internal volume. I may decide though to not worry about the joins being 100% accurate, and glass some of the joins on the inside with a resin/filler milkshake.

Gav
 

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I am in the middle of my virgin glassing experience actually lol. Its not too difficult although I'm sure that with more practice I could get better at getting fewer bubbles. It took me more time to tape out the rear of my 4runner than it does for me to lay down fiberglass. When it came to my boxes though I had no choice but to do glass. If I could have done mdf I would have but fiberglass has a better tendency to look natural in a vehicle.
 

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glass bigger than what you need. pull the mold out and fill with sand. measure. if too large stuff with pieces of wood till you have your ideal measurement
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'll see how it goes, might update this thread as i build it. I'm sure mdf will be fine as it will allow me to go all the way up to the rear bulkhead at the sides, and then the middle of the baffle will have to be where it is to allow the cones to breath. At least if i make any cutting mistakes, i can make it up with fibreglass.
 

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I've built an enclosure almost identical to that before. Unfortuantely I don't have any pictures. So long as you have a table saw you should be able to build it pretty easily without any crazy math. Just invest the $10 or less in a Sliding T-Bevel and set the angles as you go. That's How I did it and everything came out mint. Fiberglass is 100% unnecessary, and really not any easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Wow, they look usefull! I don't have a table saw, but i know someone who does and has a woodwork shop so i should get a little help.

Gav
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You definitely don't want to tackle a box like that without one, it would likely be a disaster.
You're probably right lol. All i have right now is a jigsaw, tape measure and a concrete wall to lean on lol.

I think i will start with the base, get that cut. Then measure the angle of the rear bulkhead, and work out the cuts for the centre brace, and the baffle sections. Hopefully if i take my time, i won't mess up. I can predict me measuring something but then not taking into account the angled cut on the edge lol.

Gav
 

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Gav
All you need is a "cheapie" router and you can cut the whole thing including the angles perfectly, if you need to know how let me know
 

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What i'm most concerned about is making cuts at odd angles, and getting edges to meet up perfectly with the connecting pieces. Also if anyone has any tips, little tricks or general comments, i would appreciate it!



Gav
Odd enclosure shape....lol you have no idea what I have created for the dash sub in my E34.

Its too bad you don't have much experience with glass, because it has some real benefits for weird shapes. No way I could do what I am doing without it.

In my case, I have used a mixture of PVC foam, thin MDF, and cedar for core materials. Each one was used depending on what I was trying to accomplish and the structural requirements. Its a bit hodge podge but its shaping up to be very stiff, strong and has more weird angles then one could imagine. Very few areas are symmetric.

What I can say is that the glassed areas with cedar core or thin MDF core are as dead as concrete but much lighter of course.

I need to get more pics up of my build, but progress has been slow, and I lost the charger for my camera. So I will have to use crappy phone pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for dropping in! I'm pretty sure i have seen your build thread, very impressive work. I was tempted to try an up front sub behind the glove box but i want to keep the build fairly simple to stay in the low ranks of next years emma competitions. I do plan on using fibreglass for a pillar builds, new kick builds and also amp racks so i will definately be cutting my teeth with it fairly soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So the subs will be facing the back of the seat? are you going to seal off the box from the rest of the boot?
Hi there, thanks for dropping in.

Yeah i'm hoping the way the box will fit up against the metalwork, along with some clever ccf usage will have it pretty much sealed off. I deadened the boot area thoroughly before i decided on this route.

Gav
 
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