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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. Wanted to post some of my... very amateurish work for the day. I have some fairly decent mids I am mounting in the doors and decided to make some speaker baffles for them.

After research I noticed that MDF would be the best kind of wood to use and wanted to know if It is what I have... Hopefully you can tell from the pictures taken on my phone. Another concern was the wood isn't new and the bottom of one of the pieces got wet in the garage a while back and I noticed it expanded to nearly 2x the width :eek: Is that something I should even be concerned about? I mean... Ideally they won't be seeing much water :rolleyes:

I just want the HATs to sound good in the door location. I DO, however, plan on angle mounting them/fiberglassing them in the future.. but that is whole nother thread. Anyways.. I know they aren't pretty(the rings/baffles), but wanted an opinion on, "Will they get the job done?"

Thanks in advance guys!
-Gabriel
 

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Discussion Starter #2
ahh one more thing.. I'd imagine when(tomorrow) I bolt/woodscrew them to the door that there is a small space I tried to show in one of the pictures... Do I need to be concerned about that? I suppose I could use the good ol non-hardening clay trick to help... But the concave of the door just kinda forces it to not sit EXACTLY flush, but mounted... I doubt there would be much rattling.
 

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I just built baffles in my jeep. Yes you should be concerned about water. I used a rubberized spray on undercoating to help seal mine up. As far as the holes, I used duct seal on mine. Home depot in the electrical section, its 1.97 for a one lb stick

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Rubberized spray is a good idea. I'll have to try that on my baffles since i'm waiting for the time to put them on. Not to steal the thread, but is there any type of material i should place in between the mid driver and baffle?
 

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Don't really know. Just used the carpet I covered the baffles with. Check my build thread, but I don't think I updated it in last few days...


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Discussion Starter #6
Hrmm. Alright. Rubberized Spray to fill the holes in the bottom on the doors right? I DO have some glossy rustoleum that i picked up for a future fiberglassing project and figured that would help wheatherproof them a bit no?
 

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Hrmm. Alright. Rubberized Spray to fill the holes in the bottom on the doors right? I DO have some glossy rustoleum that i picked up for a future fiberglassing project and figured that would help wheatherproof them a bit no?

You don't want to cover the rain holes unless you want your door to get flooded with water... There are other several holes that could get covered though...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
We are talking about the holes in the door... like to seal the inner skin off from the outer skin with DuctSeal? Like the holes where the handle and window are but leave any drainage holes untouched correct?

Here are my other queries in a more clear format, because I realize I had a few garbled in that post there...

1.) Do I actually HAVE MDF wood represented in the pictures there?
2.) Does MDF notoriously respond that way to water?(nearly double in width?)
3.) Does the slight space between the baffle and the door actually matter sound wise?(represented in picture, literally like a centimeter)
4.) Truckerfte said, " I used a rubberized spray on undercoating to help seal mine up." on the undercoating (or i guess backside?) of the baffle? Anywhere else I should use rubberized spray?
 

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MDF is not a good material to use, specifically for the reason you mention. It expands in water or even high humidity and becomes worthless. Try using abs, sintra, or even starboard. All are great products to use as they are all plastics and not affected by moisture. You can seal MDF but it must be completely sealed to make it last at all, even inside all of the mounting holes, even in Arizona.

Ideally the baffle would mount securely to the door and be sealed just like a real speaker enclosure to keep the back wave from interfering with the front. The MDF (if you must) or sintra will sand very easily to allow this. You could also band-aid it and cover the gaps wit sound damping material while you are sealing off all of the other holes on the inner door.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm kinda a car audio "newb", but I am not daft.. I researched this before and came up with a myriad of reasons why MDF seems to be THE material everyone seems to use for speaker mounting/or anything really for sonic conductivity/isolation/whatever. ABS came in second out of the 3(1.MDF, 2.plastics like your ABS, 3.metal:confused: lol why anyone would use metal is beyond me).

This is just the first of many pages I found explaining WHY to use MDF...


..."Can be cut, drilled and routered cleanly ,and can be sanded very smooth..

Easy to seal and paint, with very good adhesion.

Sonically inert, so is the best material for speaker enclosures.

The thicker MDF is strong and rigid, and the thinner sheets can be bent into even , smooth curves, making it an excellent pattern an mould making material.

Cheaper than solid timber.

Glues together strongly with PVA glue.

Polyester fillers (body filler) sticks well . Its main disadvantage is that it is not waterproof."

Can apparently ^^ be sealed easily... My main question now is.. HOW? lol. Thanks guys.

quoted from link below... However this is plastered all over the internet.
Read more: Why is MDF good
 
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