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Well I have my new-school set so I can try things out like a bandpass and maybe even a folded horn. The only trouble is space in my small car so it must be effective.

Your picture is too small so I can't read that. For now I'm still doing the math on the sub and thought that I read somewhere 1/3 for the sealed chamber
but the manual for my newschool sub comes with different volumes, so it's not all clear for me yet and stick to what WinISD says.
Therefor considering not to glue all up and use something removable to seal.

They also say start with the recommended volumes and from there tune it for your car.
So we have a nice hobby that keeps us of the streets lol.
 

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Hey guys, I'm in the process of trying to aquire my first old school Lanzar Opti amp and need a little info. The amp I'm currently looking at is a early opti 50C that is in working condition and hasn't ever been repaired. Cosmectically it's about a 7 out of 10 with a few scratches here and there but no major damage. What do you guys think would be a fair price for one in that condition? Thanks

Chris
 

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Hey guys, I'm in the process of trying to aquire my first old school Lanzar Opti amp and need a little info. The amp I'm currently looking at is a early opti 50C that is in working condition and hasn't ever been repaired. Cosmectically it's about a 7 out of 10 with a few scratches here and there but no major damage. What do you guys think would be a fair price for one in that condition? Thanks

Chris

There was one that sold on eBay a couple weeks ago similar to the condition of your description for $300 + shipping. That's probably about average for a decent 50c.
 

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He's asking $300 for it so I guess it's a fair price then. Thanks

Has anyone had experience with touching the paint up or repainting them?

Chris
 

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He's asking $300 for it so I guess it's a fair price then. Thanks

Has anyone had experience with touching the paint up or repainting them?

Chris
No experience but maybe not so good idea, the paint they use is very thin so the heat can get out.
Polishing is an option I would choose.
In some cases a permanent marker can do the job.
 

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He's asking $300 for it so I guess it's a fair price then. Thanks

Has anyone had experience with touching the paint up or repainting them?

Chris
Go to your local hobby shop and pick up a little jar of Testors Flat Black model paint and a couple fine brushes. That will work on the small chips and scratches. I actually use an automotive touch up brush. It's fine tip lets you get the chips and keep the touch ups neat.
 

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Go to your local hobby shop and pick up a little jar of Testors Flat Black model paint and a couple fine brushes. That will work on the small chips and scratches. I actually use an automotive touch up brush. It's fine tip lets you get the chips and keep the touch ups neat.
Thanks for touch up tip. Should you happen to know the color match for the earlier blue Opti amps? Thanks

Chris
 

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Ah Lanzar... I had an Opti 50 and Opti 100 back around 1995. Got the 50 from a customer after he replaced it with a Punch 100 and got the 100 from my brother after one of his customers blew it up. Had the Opti 50 in my Prelude Si running a pair of a/d/s S6.2i plates and was going to swap it to the front door components I had in it when I got the blown mosfets replaced.

The fets in the Opti100 were "special", according to DigiKey (who I was ordering from), and they were perpetually on back order. Every supplier I knew of said the same thing: The mosfets Lanzar used weren't the standard model and they were on back order. After 2 years of waiting I sold it. The Opti50 went into two more cars before I sold it and the a/d/s plates along with it.

A few years ago I contemplated buying an older 91-92 Honda Accord for a commuter car and happened to notice that a supplier I've been buying drivers for home speakers from was selling car speakers too (Parts Express, been buying stuff from them since the late 80's). A quick check and I saw Lanzar speakers and amps among the choices! That happiness turned into concern when I saw the cost of Lanzar stuff, especially the amps, and then turned to sadness when I found out that Lanzar is no longer one of the better brands out there nowadays.

... Still... I kinda just want to buy some of their stuff just to see how bad it got.
 

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Enjoyed finding this thread!

I was hardcore Lanzar back in the day starting with the black/red rounded amps made by Zed and similar to HiFonics. I used to spend quite a bit of time talking with "Dr. Dave" about designs and specs - believe their speakers were originally Eminence.

Was with them selling, installing and owning their product through the low profile white competition amps. Our shop sold Phoenix Gold and the MS275 & 2125 seemed to take more abuse than the Lanzar so we sold more of them.

Hands down the OptiDrive were the best sounding amps around at the time. My final system, probably around 93-95, had a pair of Optis (one grey and one purple) running Oz Audio mids and highs and a single 12" Oz sub. Source was a Denon pullout CD, PPI parametric EQ and Phoenix Gold crossover with sub control. If I remember the crossover frequency was set by soldering resistors into a chip.

Around September I got the bug for car audio and was a little depressed at what I found as all of the quality companies sold out. I learned that old skool amps are still around but they're 20+ years old and the caps need replaced and quality examples are expensive.

For now I went with a new Zapco but who knows - maybe I'll get Lanzar again some day.

-Eric

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
 

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Around September I got the bug for car audio and was a little depressed at what I found as all of the quality companies sold out. I learned that old skool amps are still around but they're 20+ years old and the caps need replaced and quality examples are expensive.

This is where I'm at. It's depressing to see that Lanzar is now borderline Dual/Boss/Pyramid status (well... Pyramid outside of their old school Super Pro amps 'cause those were made by PPI). It's bad enough a/d/s is no longer around and I can't figure out if MB Quart is good or not anymore, but Soundstream and a few other old school top-of-the-line companies are now craptastic.
 

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AAMP of America is trying to being Phoenix Gold back to its former glory. They understand they'll probably never reach its old status,but at least they're trying.

New MBQuart is...ok. The original guys that brought us MBQuart is now German Meastro.
 

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Looking for some more info on the silver optis. Just picked up one locally at a pawn shop for 30 bucks. Had remembered something to do with zed and lanzar. Opened it up to see it said made in USA so figured it was worth the 30 bucks. Looks like the silver are the last of the USA made ones. Still do rated? It's an opti 200 btw. And had to make a new account on all the forums since I don't remember my login anymore.
 

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i have been reading and purchasing a few of the "newer version Optidrive and Distinct series products, so far just speakers. how are the Amps in longevity?
 

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I'm not so sure many of us here have much experience with the silver Opti amps. This thread is mostly geared for the items before that time.
 

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I'm going to post here as well as my other thread. Scored two Lanzar LP15's yesterday. It seems like there is absolutely no info on T/S parameters for old Lanzar subs out there. Anyone here have them?

All I remember is that I think my old LP12's that I had in the early 90's worked well in 1 cu ft sealed boxes.
 

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What I remember of those from the 90s was they were crazy sensitive, like cerwin vega and not very stiff suspension. Prolly a higher qts driver

Sent from my LG-LS998 using Tapatalk
 

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Just came across this forum and thread ! I have an old school Lanzar amp from back in the day, wondering if anyone has a schematic for a Lanzar Optidrive 2200 ? Cheers !
 

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This other post has some good info in it:
diymobileaudio.com/forum/car-audio-classifieds/107743-old-school-lanzar-opti-2200-a.html

I still have my late 90s 2200 that I am about to use for a sub amp in my Durango. Had it in my old Ranger for 14 years bridged at 2Ohms on a Cadence Beast 10".
 

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Another lanzar opti lover here, specifically black and gold. Does anyone know who i can get in touch with to have a couple heat sinks refurbished? And btw my collection is quite large. In 97 i ran 6 15" DC's on 6 2500's. That was my first wall build
 

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There's a guy named Shawn King that does referbs and customs to amps, he might be able to, I've never asked him.
SIx DC 15s, each with its own 2500.....Nice.
I've never done a wall build. Always valued my space and my cars.

What all is in your collection if it's quite large?

As for myself, off the top of my head
Opti50
Opti100
Opti100Q (x2)
Opti150
Opti160
Opti160Q
Opti200 (x2)
Opti500

LXR50 (x2)
LXR100 (NIB)
LXR120Q
LXR200
LXRB, Bridges. I took a bad LXR50 and cut the sink into thirds

LP10-4 (x2)
LP12-4 (NIB)
LP8D (x2)
OA12-4
OA15-5 (NIB)
VSE10-4
LXR10-4 (NIB)

TWS tweeters (NIB)
DCR3.5 (NIB)
MD4 (NIB)
MW5 (NIB)
MWS6.5 (x2 NIB, old and new logo)

ACM50 (NIB)
ACM160Q (NIB)

E30
S2X (NIB)
G2m (NIB)
G4s (x2 NIB)
DA6
X4b
X3

There might be a thing or 3 I forgot, but that"s the jist of it.
My Clarion collection is about twice the size.
 
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