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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
ok this thing is older than me..i got it for free from my uncle..it was HIS old amp from high school......

anyways the labels completly worn off but after som searches I THINK its a CR-4X50P
Crutchfield CR-4X50P

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^look at this site

here are pics (look at last pic my problem is i dont have harness)





this is my problem


any 1 know where i can get new harnesses? or at least rig up a set up or replace ment..anything... so i can use it...i want to run my fronts and rears off this puppy...there running of my deck atm...my subs are blowing htem out of the park...
 

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It looks very much like an older Precision Power, that label is exactly the same as they used to use too. The speaker plugs look a little different than what I'm used to seeing though.
My first step would be looking for old school PPI plugs to see if they're the same.
 

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IIRC PPI made Crutchfield's amps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The PPI made ones were grey!

Thats a PPI made amp.

A real keeper IMO
mmhm same circutry as some $500 amps...works for me...built like a damn tank

i just want some plugs...i "COULD" go in and sodder wires directly to the clips or board.....but id rather do that as a last resort (and please voice your opinion if u think that is a very stupid idea...aswells as if its a good idea)
 

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If you look at the Sedona link, that is for a 4pin plug... his amps have 5 on each side..?? I know on one side, the 5th wire is the remote..


You could easily remove the speaker connectors and solder straight to the board... make up 6" extensions with quick connects on the ends for the rest of the cable.. techflex or wire loom the extensions anf figure out a way to attach them internally so they don't get pulled.. it would work just fine..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
mmhm same circutry as some $500 amps...works for me...built like a damn tank

i just want some plugs...i "COULD" go in and sodder wires directly to the clips or board.....but id rather do that as a last resort (and please voice your opinion if u think that is a very stupid idea...aswells as if its a good idea)
If you look at the Sedona link, that is for a 4pin plug... his amps have 5 on each side..?? I know on one side, the 5th wire is the remote..


You could easily remove the speaker connectors and solder straight to the board... make up 6" extensions with quick connects on the ends for the rest of the cable.. techflex or wire loom the extensions anf figure out a way to attach them internally so they don't get pulled.. it would work just fine..
thanks you confirmed what i wanted to do....didnt think of the quick conects though was just going to splice them but that would work much nicer...
nice band btw ^.^

edit: on the pictures of them amp..lin in first post..there are 2 remote wires one on each side? do i need them both or will 1 sufice?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
so does any one know if i only need one or both remote wires?
 

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Can't say man, looking at the wiring diagram it looks like only the left side needs remote input..
 

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I don't think that the screw-terminal type is the right type either... One of my first amps was a Sansui which was also made by PPI (SMA-1500 if I remember right 75w x 2). Had the same power wire setup w/ the main 12v wiring soldered directly to the board.... and the plug input on that amp looks VERY familiar (though I'll admit it's been probably 15 years since I've seen that amp... lol!)

The harness you're looking for is probably going to be a flat plastic one w/ wires crimped to the pins in the harness (NOT screwdown terminals). I also think you're probably gonna have one hell of a time trying to source those since they were very prone to the wires fatiguing and breaking off (they used cheesy wire and it was something like 18 ga, I had to resolder the remote wire at the connector before I knew how to take pins out of molexes... lol!)

*EDIT*

Better yet, I found this link on Fleabay...

http://cgi.ebay.com/PPI-Precision-P...0663566QQihZ021QQcategoryZ18795QQcmdZViewItem

Don't quote me but I think they'll work. Contact the seller since he also has a couple of those crutchfield amps for sale and he says he can do a hardwire job on them. Apparently he knows something about them.

Also just noticed you're in Bismarck... hope your house isn't under water... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I don't think that the screw-terminal type is the right type either... One of my first amps was a Sansui which was also made by PPI (SMA-1500 if I remember right 75w x 2). Had the same power wire setup w/ the main 12v wiring soldered directly to the board.... and the plug input on that amp looks VERY familiar (though I'll admit it's been probably 15 years since I've seen that amp... lol!)

The harness you're looking for is probably going to be a flat plastic one w/ wires crimped to the pins in the harness (NOT screwdown terminals). I also think you're probably gonna have one hell of a time trying to source those since they were very prone to the wires fatiguing and breaking off (they used cheesy wire and it was something like 18 ga, I had to resolder the remote wire at the connector before I knew how to take pins out of molexes... lol!)

*EDIT*

Better yet, I found this link on Fleabay...

PPI Precision Power Old School Mosfet Amp Harness No Mo - eBay (item 310120663566 end time May-05-09 18:52:09 PDT)

Don't quote me but I think they'll work. Contact the seller since he also has a couple of those crutchfield amps for sale and he says he can do a hardwire job on them. Apparently he knows something about them.

Also just noticed you're in Bismarck... hope your house isn't under water... :)
somg a north dakoten! here! on diyma! zomg!

nah gots half a mile from me..but i was and still am high and dry...i bought a really cool dremel to cut back some plastic on the tips..just going to hardwire it......as for the remote wire i guess ill just use one and if it works great if it doesnt mabye i need both
but the foils to look like only left side so ^.^
 

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I'm pretty sure that you only need to power one of them... perhaps if you look at the traces on the board you might be able to tell if one of them is just a dead connection. I'd imagine all of the speaker outputs will go one direction, the turn on lead another....
 
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