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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2001 Audi S4 with a Pioneer Premier F90BT head unit and I want to redo everything but the subs. Right now I have an old Sony amp and Infinity Kappa speakers that have run their course. In the front are 5.25 comps and in the rear 5.25 coax's. The subs I have a two 10" MTX that at some point will need to be replaced too. But for now they work.

My car audio experience is really out dated. I dabbled a lot in the 90's and have been out of it since. I want to do this one right but on a budget of about $700-800. For the front doors I was looking at the MBQuart PVI-213's but from what I have been reading on here MB Quart quality has really gone down. I saw someone mention ARC speakers (silk tweet worth it?) on woofersetc.com. I am really open to suggestions from you guys.

For the rears I am thinking of coaxials to keep costs down and that the speakers are actually under the rear shelf. If it makes sense to get components and mount the tweeter externally I can do that. Just wondering if its worth it?

As far as amps I have seen all of you guys rave about the PDX Series so I assume this one would be a good fit?

Do any of these speakers match to this amp well?

I have tried to search on Active vs. Passive but all I can find is people asking if they should do it or not and not specifically what it is. I assume it means taking out the passive crossovers from the components and running them via an external crossover. I am open if I can do it within my budget but I am not sure I can.

Sorry for all the questions. I think I have provided most of the information you might need. Thanks for all the suggestions guys.
 

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Nice :)

PRECISION POWER PPI 355CS 5.25" CAR COMPONENT SPEAKERS - eBay (item 300320494453 end time Jul-05-09 13:46:50 PDT)

Quote:
Product Description:

* 5-1/4" 2-way Component System
* Power Handling:
o Peak: 200 watts per set / 100 watts each side
o RMS: 100 watts per set / 50 watts each side
* Kevlar, mica, fiberglass interlaced cone woofer
* Silk dome tweeter
* Phase plug for controlled interaction between mid and high frequencies
* Woven tinsel leads
* 4 ohms impedance
* Copper clad aluminum voice coil
* Custom Crossover
o 12 dB High pass configuration
o 6 dB Low pass
o +3 dB Tweeter level adjustments
o 180º Tweeter phase adjustments
o Multi stage tweeter protection
o Bi-ampable mid/mid-bass Zobel circuit
* Top-mount depth: 2-1/2"
quote:

Rear speakers ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Polk-MMC525-5-2...66:2|39:1|72:2067|240:1318|301:0|293:1|294:50

The MMC525 features a Woven Dynamic Balance Carbon Fiber Cone, 25mm Liquid-Cooled Silk/Polymer Composite Dome Tweeter with Neodymium magnet, 15º Swivel Tweeter
 

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Is the 2001 S4 the last of the B5 chassis or the first of the B6? Makes a huge diff in door speaker performance and installation options...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Is the 2001 S4 the last of the B5 chassis or the first of the B6? Makes a huge diff in door speaker performance and installation options...
The 2000-2002 are all the B5. As it is the previous owner made it so that 5.25 Kappa's fit in there. Normally I don't think they would.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nice :)

PRECISION POWER PPI 355CS 5.25" CAR COMPONENT SPEAKERS - eBay (item 300320494453 end time Jul-05-09 13:46:50 PDT)

Quote:
Product Description:

* 5-1/4" 2-way Component System
* Power Handling:
o Peak: 200 watts per set / 100 watts each side
o RMS: 100 watts per set / 50 watts each side
* Kevlar, mica, fiberglass interlaced cone woofer
* Silk dome tweeter
* Phase plug for controlled interaction between mid and high frequencies
* Woven tinsel leads
* 4 ohms impedance
* Copper clad aluminum voice coil
* Custom Crossover
o 12 dB High pass configuration
o 6 dB Low pass
o +3 dB Tweeter level adjustments
o 180º Tweeter phase adjustments
o Multi stage tweeter protection
o Bi-ampable mid/mid-bass Zobel circuit
* Top-mount depth: 2-1/2"
quote:

Rear speakers ?

Polk MMC525 5.25" Coaxial Speaker System 5-1/4" T1775 - eBay (item 150350141819 end time Jun-12-09 14:23:50 PDT)

The MMC525 features a Woven Dynamic Balance Carbon Fiber Cone, 25mm Liquid-Cooled Silk/Polymer Composite Dome Tweeter with Neodymium magnet, 15º Swivel Tweeter
Hmmm interesting... too bad this amp seems to be a little too powerful for those. Seems to be a good buy:
Pioneer Premier PRS-D4200F (prsd4200f) Multi-channel Amps Car Amplifiers Car Audio and Video - Sonic Electronix

You have any experience with these Polks?
Polk Audio MM521 Marine Audio Speakers Marine Electronics - Sonic Electronix
 

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The PRS components are very nice sounding for the price IMO (that 30 watt rating is crossover dependent but they'll take much more thermally) and those a/d/s "clones" look like they could be a great value (I haven't used those particular ones but I always enjoyed the a/d/s gear I used in the "old days"). In any case since the speakers are what actually make the sound I personally make them first priority in any system I design for excellent SQ so I always get the "best" ones I can fit within the budget and install them properly of course ;).

BTW, although you'll get some great advice here there is nothing like getting some in car listening time with all kinds of different gear as well as hands on help from some very experienced car audio enthusiasts. It looks like you are close by so if you are interested in attending a gathering that will allow you those opportunity's check out the info below. :)

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-iasca-competition-official-announcement.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Thanks for the link to the meet Marv. I will read up on it. :)


What do you guys think about this setup?

Front:
Pioneer Premier TS-D520C (tsd520c) 5-1/4" Component Systems Car Speakers Car Audio and Video - Sonic Electronix

Rear:
Pioneer TS-A1683R (tsa1683r) 6-3/4" Speakers Car Speakers Car Audio and Video - Sonic Electronix

Amp:
Kicker ZX200.4 (06zx2004) Multi-channel Amps Car Amplifiers Car Audio and Video - Sonic Electronix

BTW I was thinking about going with a little less power because I am afraid I am going to get myself into a situation where my speakers will overpower my subs that are here:

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the link to the meet Marv. I will read up on it. :)


What do you guys think about this setup?

Front:
Pioneer Premier TS-D520C (tsd520c) 5-1/4" Component Systems Car Speakers Car Audio and Video - Sonic Electronix

Rear:
Pioneer TS-A1683R (tsa1683r) 6-3/4" Speakers Car Speakers Car Audio and Video - Sonic Electronix

Amp:
Kicker ZX200.4 (06zx2004) Multi-channel Amps Car Amplifiers Car Audio and Video - Sonic Electronix

BTW I was thinking about going with a little less power because I am afraid I am going to get myself into a situation where my speakers will overpower my subs that are here:

[IMGhttp://gallery.mac.com/alex.gregory/100113/IMG_26646/web.jpg[/IMG]
OK I am all over the place. :) I decided I do not like that amp. It has a fixed x-over freq @ 80hz.

Now based on some of your suggestions I am thinking of this:

Rear (they are actually 6.5 not 5.25 holes)
Polk Audio MM651 6-1/2" Speakers Car Speakers Car Audio and Video - Sonic Electronix

Front I am struggling with... are these too low power for the amp? Everything else is 100RMS these are 50RMS:
Precision Power PPI 355CS 5-1/4" Component Systems Car Speakers Car Audio and Video - Sonic Electronix

Amp:
Pioneer Premier PRS-D4100F 1200W 4-Channel Amplifier

Here I am again though at 100W per corner. I am worried I am going to overpower my subs.
 

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You need to figure out how the speakers mount in your door panel now, because that car has lousy OE provisions in front.

The speaks mount to the back of the door panel and the door panel is flimsy as heck.

Regardless of what speaker is in there, you need to make the driver as stable and solidly-mounted as possible.

To put a larger driver in there, some metal often has to be cut, and it's thick, double-thickness metal in spots.

I've done it and had good results, but you need to spend more time on the door install and less on your gear... and for god's sake give up on rears.
 

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Have you considered retrofitting an Audi RNS-E (the euro factory nav system from the B6/B7 platform)? It looks really sweet in the dash, and it's easy to tap into the harness to get RCA outs...

Charlie.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Have you considered retrofitting an Audi RNS-E (the euro factory nav system from the B6/B7 platform)? It looks really sweet in the dash, and it's easy to tap into the harness to get RCA outs...

Charlie.
I did actually... getting my hands on an RNS is about 1300-1500. Its a pricey option. One of the reasons I went with the F90BT. All the same functionality and less than half the price.
 
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