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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, first just let me say, I love the chit out of my GF.... but she just has a completely different way of thinking about things than I do ! Which is to say, for her, facts mean nothing. Its all about how things seem, and how they feel :)

So here's my dilemma;
I just finished the box for the Skar EVL 18, and it sounds freaking phenomenal ! It digs super deep, but yet can play such tight, snappy bass too, you would think it was four 10"s. Best build (out of probably 30) that I've ever created. I'm REALLY happy with this setup. But theirs only one thing that's messing with me.... My new Wolfram 2400.1 is only seeing a 2 ohm load.... So its only putting out an actual 1300 and change (according to actual tests on SMD testing equipment) Well, the Skar EVL 18 is rated for 1250 RMS, so that's perfect right ? But it just kills me that I have 2500 available, and only using half of it :(
So lets say I were to do a direct swap out, of my DVC 4 ohm EVL 18, for a DVC 2 ohm EVL 18. Okay, so instantly I'm able to make double the watts, however, now the sub is getting WAY more power than it should, so I'd be way more likely to fry it. Plus, when modeling in WinIsd my Passive radiators will be subject to big time over excursion.... and besides all of this, doubling the wattage only shows about a 2 1/2 db gain in SPL :(
Modeling a whole bunch of different 18" subs for 2500 wts, I get no more than 2 1/2 db gains, and some almost no gain at all !
Long story short, right now I'm totally guilty of thinking like my GF ! Which is to say, "This just SEEMS wrong"..... Never mind the facts of the matter that this is the best sounding box I've ever created. If only I "thought" I was actually giving my 18" 2500 wts RMS, I would be totally happy.

Your thoughts ?
 

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You have headroom, you're not running the amp to the ragged edge, you're not generally playing test tones, and you like the way it sounds. Don't fix what isn't broken.
 

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Or think about it being that you bought a more capable amp and you’re letting it have plenty of headroom. Thinking like a sub, if you don’t push a sub to its limits, you stay away from distortion and it will sound better. So maybe think about that you bought a powerful amp so you have plenty of reserve for strong transients.

Go back outside and enjoy your new sub build and forget about a single component and enjoy the subwoofer SYSTEM that you put together. Because who knows, if you change it, you very well could screw it up too. Or you make a change and don’t notice a damn thing different.
 

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The only thing you need to do right now is; take a week off DIYMA and enjoy your new sub.
 

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Find out how many watts it takes to drive that sub to its mechanical limits. I bet its less than 1300.
 

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We usually have generally good gut instincts and feelings, but sometimes it can be totally wrong... but there is still a cuteness and innocence to it.
(When it doesn't drive others crazy with bewilderment)

To others, facts and truth are important concepts and feelings are best reserved for things that cannot be described quantitatively.

How much power is that new and "best sounding of 30 subwoofers" seeing and what is the SPL?
How much SPL do you need?
And how much do you want?
Is anything denser than Wolfram?
And is it animal vegetable or mineral?
 

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Okay, first just let me say, I love the chit out of my GF.... but she just has a completely different way of thinking about things than I do ! Which is to say, for her, facts mean nothing. Its all about how things seem, and how they feel :)

So here's my dilemma;
I just finished the box for the Skar EVL 18, and it sounds freaking phenomenal ! It digs super deep, but yet can play such tight, snappy bass too, you would think it was four 10"s. Best build (out of probably 30) that I've ever created. I'm REALLY happy with this setup. But theirs only one thing that's messing with me.... My new Wolfram 2400.1 is only seeing a 2 ohm load.... So its only putting out an actual 1300 and change (according to actual tests on SMD testing equipment) Well, the Skar EVL 18 is rated for 1250 RMS, so that's perfect right ? But it just kills me that I have 2500 available, and only using half of it :(
So lets say I were to do a direct swap out, of my DVC 4 ohm EVL 18, for a DVC 2 ohm EVL 18. Okay, so instantly I'm able to make double the watts, however, now the sub is getting WAY more power than it should, so I'd be way more likely to fry it. Plus, when modeling in WinIsd my Passive radiators will be subject to big time over excursion.... and besides all of this, doubling the wattage only shows about a 2 1/2 db gain in SPL :(
Modeling a whole bunch of different 18" subs for 2500 wts, I get no more than 2 1/2 db gains, and some almost no gain at all !
Long story short, right now I'm totally guilty of thinking like my GF ! Which is to say, "This just SEEMS wrong"..... Never mind the facts of the matter that this is the best sounding box I've ever created. If only I "thought" I was actually giving my 18" 2500 wts RMS, I would be totally happy.

Your thoughts ?
Shut up man! I'm running 2 of the W3000.1's and I only need 3600 watts total for 2 1000 watt subs, so I'm running each 3000 watt amp at 1800 watts. I'm getting exactly what I wanted, enough power to max out the subs without any chance of clipping the amps. Sounds like you're in the same situation, so just shut up and enjoy it!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey guys a light bulb has come on 🙂

Busy right now but I will be back later to explain....
 

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Hopefully your girlfriend is not obsessive compulsive and a person who way over thinks things. Might be since your becoming her and your posting this thread.
Enjoy the system. I would imagine the set up will get way louder than you need. Think of it this way. Your amp is just cruising and you have the exact amount of power that you need. Done. You don’t have to run an amp as hard as it will go.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Alright so sometime after I posted this, I had an idea..... I'll get back to it...

But first let me say this, their are a couple things that are going to happen before their are any changes at all to the subwoofer setup, 1) a DSP + mic followed by some serious tuning, 2) a 4 channel amp to replace "the rest of" my 5 ch Power 1000 (speaking of which, that amp actually has a little issue in the speaker outputs, and needs to be slapped around once in a while to get the left stereo channels working)

So this is going to be about $600-700 right here ^
___
Now, remember my whole fascination with the Isobaric setup ? Geez, that original setup with the two 15" Dayton's sounded so freaking good.... If only it weren't for the darn loose power cable, that I didn't figure out until that box was yanked back out and replaced. I sure wish I could have listened to it's full potential !
But anyway, the whole isobaric thing popped back into my head, and so I had to model it again....
Yes, it only gives my about 2.5 more db's (and that has nothing to do with the extra driver, but rather, the doubling of the power) also, it puts the driver excursion up closer to their max, but still safe. The two passives actually go just over their max tuned as they are at 30.48 hz, however, a slight bump up to 32 hz keeps them just below max excursion too.
And of course, I'd be getting full use of my Wolfram 2400.1.

Oh and also, my 2400.1 actually has two sets of outputs, so that I could slap the other sub right on top of existing one, without even having to open up the box... Which might not sound like a big deal, except I kinda glued my current 18" to my box... With bedliner. Not a problem until, when and if I have to remove it....

I dunno. I'm very confident this idea wouldn't hurt anything, and honestly, I think it would improve the SQ anywhere from a little, to quite a bit.
Cheap thing to try though. Nothing but the cost of another sub... $259

Just another possibility. Have those other things to take care of for sure first...

PS, + if I did this, I could tell my GF, "See, I'm finally learning from you.... I did it because "it seemed better" 😆 lol
 

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I think you need to go back to becoming your girlfriend and go out and feel your system and stop thinking. Stop thinking! You’re dangerous. Lol!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I think you need to go back to becoming your girlfriend and go out and feel your system and stop thinking. Stop thinking! You’re dangerous. Lol!
I'd SO rather be in my truck right now....
But this little Prius actually sounds really good too all be it, not near as loud, or stomach shaking 🙂
 

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...
I dunno. I'm very confident this idea wouldn't hurt anything, and honestly, I think it would improve the SQ anywhere from a little, to quite a bit.
Cheap thing to try though. Nothing but the cost of another sub... $259
...
It is possible that a DSP would provide the best "feeling/$" ratio?
 

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Alright so sometime after I posted this, I had an idea..... I'll get back to it...

But first let me say this, their are a couple things that are going to happen before their are any changes at all to the subwoofer setup, 1) a DSP + mic followed by some serious tuning, 2) a 4 channel amp to replace "the rest of" my 5 ch Power 1000 (speaking of which, that amp actually has a little issue in the speaker outputs, and needs to be slapped around once in a while to get the left stereo channels working)

So this is going to be about $600-700 right here ^
___
Now, remember my whole fascination with the Isobaric setup ? Geez, that original setup with the two 15" Dayton's sounded so freaking good.... If only it weren't for the darn loose power cable, that I didn't figure out until that box was yanked back out and replaced. I sure wish I could have listened to it's full potential !
But anyway, the whole isobaric thing popped back into my head, and so I had to model it again....
Yes, it only gives my about 2.5 more db's (and that has nothing to do with the extra driver, but rather, the doubling of the power) also, it puts the driver excursion up closer to their max, but still safe. The two passives actually go just over their max tuned as they are at 30.48 hz, however, a slight bump up to 32 hz keeps them just below max excursion too.
And of course, I'd be getting full use of my Wolfram 2400.1.

Oh and also, my 2400.1 actually has two sets of outputs, so that I could slap the other sub right on top of existing one, without even having to open up the box... Which might not sound like a big deal, except I kinda glued my current 18" to my box... With bedliner. Not a problem until, when and if I have to remove it....

I dunno. I'm very confident this idea wouldn't hurt anything, and honestly, I think it would improve the SQ anywhere from a little, to quite a bit.
Cheap thing to try though. Nothing but the cost of another sub... $259

Just another possibility. Have those other things to take care of for sure first...

PS, + if I did this, I could tell my GF, "See, I'm finally learning from you.... I did it because "it seemed better" lol
For god's sake, buy a cheap laptop too. You'll be using it quite a bit with a dsp, plus laptops are good for other stuff too.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
For god's sake, buy a cheap laptop too. You'll be using it quite a bit with a dsp, plus laptops are good for other stuff too.
Ehh... Maybe. Might try to find a cheap refurbished one.... Just don't think I'd use it much....

Here's another thing... Once I get my DSP installed, I'm really going to be looking for somebody to tune my whole system, not just the DSP, but all my gains and such. I haven't went over to talk to my old buddy Steve Meade, but I will as soon as I get the DSP + the new 4 ch amp. Heck if he wants to put the whole tuning session on YouTube, I'd be okay with that 🙂 Plus I'm sure he has 2 or 9 laptops laying around 🙂
 
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