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Discussion Starter #1
Selling one slightly used in the box W15CH001 magnesium hexadym midrange. It is perfect for a center channel. Sells for $172.50, but selling for $130 or best offer plus shipping.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
cotdt said:
haha so i see that someone bought only one (mono setup?). anyway, good luck. =)
Yeah...I have sold them both now;)...Seems they wanted to go solo this time. I do have a new pair for sale still.
 

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You have another pair to sell? : )

I am thinking I should almost go with these over the W18EX. I know you think so, I wonder what other people think.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
tf1216 said:
You have another pair to sell? : )

I am thinking I should almost go with these over the W18EX. I know you think so, I wonder what other people think.
W18EX is excellent with a tweeter that can reach lower than the smaller ribbons like the LCY/Aurum (G2Si/G2). The W15CH is the one of choice with a smaller ribbon. The compromise with the W15CH is that it will not handle as much sustained SPL in the midbass dept. The compromise with the W18 is it will drop off severely and not allow for a wider choice of tweeters. Which is better will depend on the application you will use them in. IMO, the W15CH has better decay and clarity/detail/transparency than the larger W18. The W18 will produce a larger sized image of the music due to more cone area. So many compromises, but what it comes down to, IMO, is what tweeter you will use in the critical part of the midrange section of 1-4khz. This is where a LOT of what we hear as being fatiguing or not occurs as well as what we perceive as being dynamic or laid back...etc. etc. etc.
 

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Awesome, thanks Mike! I bought a pair of the W18EXs and will be using them with the LCY 130 in my home. We talked about this and I like your words because they are reassuring. I love the larger sized image of music you described. To me it makes the music so enjoyable to listen to. I plan on crossing the two drivers at 2200 Hz, right before the Excel starts to beam. If you are ever in NH you need to come listen : )

It's too hot in California : ) Well, maybe I will come there.
 

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how are you planning to pair the W18 with the LCY130? I have the same drivers (except LCY 110 instead of 130) but am getting problems getting them to sound as well as my cheap reference system (Dayton Reference w/custom passive crossover). What kind of crossover do you have in mind?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
tf1216 said:
Awesome, thanks Mike! I bought a pair of the W18EXs and will be using them with the LCY 130 in my home. We talked about this and I like your words because they are reassuring. I love the larger sized image of music you described. To me it makes the music so enjoyable to listen to. I plan on crossing the two drivers at 2200 Hz, right before the Excel starts to beam. If you are ever in NH you need to come listen : )

It's too hot in California : ) Well, maybe I will come there.
Hehehehe...I'm in N. Cali and it is not hot at all. It's going to be raining by week's end with highs from 53-58ish and lows down to 41;). Southern Cali is a different story, however:). Will return your email soon. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
cotdt said:
how are you planning to pair the W18 with the LCY130? I have the same drivers (except LCY 110 instead of 130) but am getting problems getting them to sound as well as my cheap reference system (Dayton Reference w/custom passive crossover). What kind of crossover do you have in mind?
Sure you don't want to try a W15CH with them?;)...How do they sound compared to the domes you are using and have you tried pairing them with the Dayton mids? It sounds like they arrived safely.
 

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I plan on using the Behringer DCX2496. If I can not obtain the sound I want then I might have my friends help me make an active XO of my own like Linkwitz and John K.

What kind of crossover are you using? This is in your car, correct? IMO, you need to have at least a second order electronic low pass on that Excel below the mid 2 kHz range or that resonance we will heard. If you are using a passive XO there is much to be learned on how to properly build one for this speaker.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
tf1216 said:
I plan on using the Behringer DCX2496. If I can not obtain the sound I want then I might have my friends help me make an active XO of my own like Linkwitz and John K.

What kind of crossover are you using? This is in your car, correct? IMO, you need to have at least a second order electronic low pass on that Excel below the mid 2 kHz range or that resonance we will heard. If you are using a passive XO there is much to be learned on how to properly build one for this speaker.

I use the Behringer in home. I've used the W15CH out to 4khz with a big notch at the resonance and heard nothing bad from it. I don't hear anything bad until I allow that resonance to shine. Once that's happening...it's not bad, but it's not good either;)...
 

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Nothingness said:
Sure you don't want to try a W15CH with them?;)...How do they sound compared to the domes you are using and have you tried pairing them with the Dayton mids? It sounds like they arrived safely.
Yeah I'm considering the W15CH but then to get the bass that I want I would have to add a subwoofer. But I'm sure that W18 is just fine and the real problem is the active crossover. When I took out the passive crossover I've built for my Dayton Reference speaker set and tried to get the Behringer DCX2496 to work with it, I found out that the active crossover just doesn't have enough controls to tweak the sound and it really colors my Daytons. Also it has horrible instrument separation compared to the passive, which sounded amazing. Passive crossover was way better in this case because it was very well-adjusted.

You're selling a modded Behringer, what's the difference between that and the stock Behringer that I have? Not that I can afford another one, but I'm just really curious because I'm thinking of modding mine as well.
 

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tf1216 said:
I plan on using the Behringer DCX2496. If I can not obtain the sound I want then I might have my friends help me make an active XO of my own like Linkwitz and John K.

What kind of crossover are you using? This is in your car, correct? IMO, you need to have at least a second order electronic low pass on that Excel below the mid 2 kHz range or that resonance we will heard. If you are using a passive XO there is much to be learned on how to properly build one for this speaker.
You might want to consider Nothingness's modded Behringer DCX2496, but avoid the stock version because it doesn't sound very good IMHO. A professionally designed passive crossover would be far better option but getting it has been a problem for me, who have the same driver combo as you. My experience with audio has been mainly in the home environment where differences in sound quality is a lot more noticeable compared to car environment. I'm planning to install my Dayton Reference set that I built into my car after I get my W18+LCY combo working the way I want. The LCY is an amazing tweeter and better than any dome tweeter for sure, even the amazing Dayton RS28A.

A custom active crossover takes a lot of work and skill and probably not a route that's available to you, unless your friend is an engineer. I've never heard from an active crossover set before but sure would like to! They are very rare!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
cotdt said:
Yeah I'm considering the W15CH but then to get the bass that I want I would have to add a subwoofer. But I'm sure that W18 is just fine and the real problem is the active crossover. When I took out the passive crossover I've built for my Dayton Reference speaker set and tried to get the Behringer DCX2496 to work with it, I found out that the active crossover just doesn't have enough controls to tweak the sound and it really colors my Daytons. Also it has horrible instrument separation compared to the passive, which sounded amazing. Passive crossover was way better in this case because it was very well-adjusted.

You're selling a modded Behringer, what's the difference between that and the stock Behringer that I have? Not that I can afford another one, but I'm just really curious because I'm thinking of modding mine as well.
Do you have proper measuring equipment? Even with stock form, you should be able to achieve a darn good performance from the DCX unit. The DCX I have eliminated the analog output stage, a part of the chain I find to be the most inferior part aside from using the analog ins instead of the digital in.

With the W15CH, you'll need two (in home at least) to get some powerful sounding midbass/midrange from them. In a car, I think a pair in the doors would do exceptionally well considering their optimal qts. But the 5.5" midbass will not keep up with any 7" midbass...though with a nice/transparent sub...you don't need a 7" midbass unless you have a large vehicle/truck that requires a large speaker to keep up with all the space you need to fill.
 
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