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Discussion Starter #1
In my previous discussion, I'm learning how to tune 2 way front stage about Crossover, T/A and 7 band Graphic equalizer. I set my crossover point at LPF-Mid = 4300hz, HPF-Mid = 63hz and HPF tweeter = 5000hz. Then I use tape measure to do T/A. After complete both of this setting, the sound was great but when open volume to 20+ (without using power amplifier yet), the sound is not very good.

Then I open louder volume and tune with head unit inbuilt 7 band graphic equalizer, I try to adjust with my feeling.

Suddenly, I heard a 'pop' sound from right hand side of tweeter. Now the tweeter still can produce a little sound but is lower than left hand tweeter. Is it my tweeter already blow, i'm using 1 inch tweeter.

My question: What cause my tweeter blow? Is it setting problem, open louder without an amplifer or still can rescue back ?

One more questions, during my car hit the bump my speaker sound is stoppage a while. CD problem or headunit problem.
 

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no amplifier? So I'm assuming you are using the amp in the head unit. Probably 20w per channel or less.

If you confirmed your HPF was set correctly on your tweeter then it sounds like you blew it probably by clipping the signal from your internal amp by turning the volume louder than the crappy internal amp could handle.

Does it appear the HU is cycling power and turning back on or is it just a second or less pause? For music skipping on a bump, unless you have a really old HU I'd think any modern day one can buffer enough of the CD not to skip. I'd try it with other sources such as digital or FM. If they skip, then I'd look for a loose power or ground (in which case could have also been the cause of blown tweeter).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no amplifier? So I'm assuming you are using the amp in the head unit. Probably 20w per channel or less.

If you confirmed your HPF was set correctly on your tweeter then it sounds like you blew it probably by clipping the signal from your internal amp by turning the volume louder than the crappy internal amp could handle.

Does it appear the HU is cycling power and turning back on or is it just a second or less pause? For music skipping on a bump, unless you have a really old HU I'd think any modern day one can buffer enough of the CD not to skip. I'd try it with other sources such as digital or FM. If they skip, then I'd look for a loose power or ground (in which cause could have also been the cause of blown tweeter).
Yes, my head unit is 4x19w rms. My HPF using 5khz is it ok? Because when sound is open loud, 5khz make the tweeter become clear but continuely play around 30 minit, one of my tweeter is blow. Yet it can produce little sound now
 

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What slope did you use? 5khz shoudl be more than safe enough for a 1" tweeter. But if you tried making your internal amp play louder than it should, that will pop a speaker. You need good, clean power in order to play loud.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What slope did you use? 5khz shoudl be more than safe enough for a 1" tweeter. But if you tried making your internal amp play louder than it should, that will pop a speaker. You need good, clean power in order to play loud.
24db slope and level -6db. That mean I need to get a new tweeter now, current tweeter 100% spoilt?
 

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If it's playing quieter than the other one now I'd say it's gone. You can try increasing the level to compensate but eventually it'll just go completely I suspect. Or sound bad and the freq response is shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If it's playing quieter than the other one now I'd say it's gone. You can try increasing the level to compensate but eventually it'll just go completely I suspect. Or sound bad and the freq response is shot.
Headunit inbuilt amp is no enough to push speaker when sound is open louder, it will caused speaker blow.
Is it this situation caused my speaker blow. What your recommend for my next tweeter, 1inch or 2inch, which brand for SQ
 

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Headunit inbuilt amp is no enough to push speaker when sound is open louder, it will caused speaker blow.
Is it this situation caused my speaker blow. What your recommend for my next tweeter, 1inch or 2inch, which brand for SQ
Probably an oscilloscope will be cheaper in the long run.
 

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Headunit inbuilt amp is no enough to push speaker when sound is open louder, it will caused speaker blow.
Is it this situation caused my speaker blow. What your recommend for my next tweeter, 1inch or 2inch, which brand for SQ
I don't recommend any tweeter that can handle a clipped head unit signal. Get off deck power or you will continue to pop tweeters like balloons when you turn up the volume. 1" tweeters are fine when provided clean power typically provided by an external amplifier.
 

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I don't recommend any tweeter that can handle a clipped head unit signal. Get off deck power or you will continue to pop tweeters like balloons when you turn up the volume. 1" tweeters are fine when provided clean power typically provided by an external amplifier.
Or they got too much of the low frequencies.
We really do not know for sure at this point.
 

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It wouldnt be my first guess when crossed over at 5khz with a 24db slope at -6...I suspect "dirty" power or a failure to initiate the active settings by the user prior to turning up. Either way he needs a new tweeter at this point and I can't think of one that will respond to either of those two scenarios very well.
 

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It wouldnt be my first guess when crossed over at 5khz with a 24db slope at -6...I suspect "dirty" power or a failure to initiate the active settings by the user prior to turning up. Either way he needs a new tweeter at this point and I can't think of one that will respond to either of those two scenarios very well.
I meant the tweeter wired to the MB and vice versa... something a scope could help with.
"Dirty power" is also something a scope could help with.
Knowing the problem should likely take place before the solution to fix it happens, hence I would not be buying another tweeter until I knew how and why the first one lost its magic smoke.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I don't recommend any tweeter that can handle a clipped head unit signal. Get off deck power or you will continue to pop tweeters like balloons when you turn up the volume. 1" tweeters are fine when provided clean power typically provided by an external amplifier.
You mean that my headunit make my tweeter blow?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I meant the tweeter wired to the MB and vice versa... something a scope could help with.
"Dirty power" is also something a scope could help with.
Knowing the problem should likely take place before the solution to fix it happens, hence I would not be buying another tweeter until I knew how and why the first one lost its magic smoke.
I not very understant your meaning. Is it crossovers high 5khz is ok and 24db slope bring down the frequency and make tweeter blow
 

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I doubt a clipped signal blew the tweeter. A HPF of 5khz and 24db slope should be perfectly safe through the head units entire volume range. With sound cutting out over bumps I suspect all of your problems are due to a poor wiring job.
 

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I not very understant your meaning. Is it crossovers high 5khz is ok and 24db slope bring down the frequency and make tweeter blow
How do you know the tweeter is on the channel you think it is on?
How could you tell?
 

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Sorry I not understand your meaning, can explain more deeply
No, I do not think I can be any clearer.
Someone else may be able to though, and it is possible my theory is wrong anyhow.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
After reading all the reply, I thinks that my tweeter blow because of head unit built in amp power is lower than tweeter power.

Built in amp =19w rms,
Tweeter = 50w rms.

It is the reason that tweeter is underpower when open in loud volume and caused blow.

Can anyone tell me how to match amplifier power with speaker power in both RMS and Peak Watts
 

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After reading all the reply, I thinks that my tweeter blow because of head unit built in amp power is lower than tweeter power.

Built in amp =19w rms,
Tweeter = 50w rms.

It is the reason that tweeter is underpower when open in loud volume and caused blow.

Can anyone tell me how to match amplifier power with speaker power in both RMS and Peak Watts
No...
Tweeters done have a power. Your mismatch needs to be explained, or at least understood.

You only have a theory, which remains as of yet to be proven.

Hence my suggestion of an oscilloscope many posts back.
(However you would need to know how to use it.)
 
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