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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I currently have a 3-way front stage with midbass in sealed kickpod enclosures and midrange in the factory door locations (albeit angled up and back for less off-axis mounting).
I decided to experiment by putting the midbass (Image Dynamics OEM 6.5") in IB setup in the door, but was disappointed compared to the sealed kickpods. Then I tried one of the old Kicker "freeair" F8c drivers I have had laying around forever (had to mount the basket facing the inside of the car since I am not ready to cut the doors yet), and I was really impressed with the punch and extension and effortless sound on bass guitar and other stuff I played. It was enough for me to decide to really take the plunge and get the doors more well "prepared" for what's going to be moving in.

This is going to be a slow process but for now I removed some of the deadening material from the inner skin (where there are large cutouts in the metal) and put deadening mat and mold-resistant foam sheeting on the outer skin. I glued the "socket" part of grille ball & socket plastic pieces inside each hole where the plastic door panel clips go, so those will at least be airtight and rattle-free. I'm probably going to fiberglass over the metal cutouts since they are so odd in shape (in a 3-D kind of way) that I can't use MDF or any other flat surface cutout to fill them in. I am going to reinforce the stock speaker mounting area after cutting out some metal, and then space out the midbass with two 3/4" MDF rings soaked in fiberglass resin/hardener so they'll be moisture resistant. And check for & try to plug up air leaks to the extent possible along the way.





 

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I believe it's an Acura TSX. I could be wrong though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Picked up some more of the mildew-resistant foam. Usually it's expensive but Hobby Lobby had it for 60% off. Just a pic for now of testing the midbass response in a temporary setup with basket facing out.



 

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cool! Havent seen "magnet out" on doors in quite a few years! Hope it all works well for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks but magnet-out is just for testing so I don't have to cut sheet metal in the door just yet. The woofer was attached to the door via reducing MDF spacers to adapt it to an opening for a 6" speaker. It would be interesting to keep it magnet-out, since it'll only be playing up to around 170Hz, but it protrudes too much from the door. Eventually I'll be cutting sheet metal.


cool! Havent seen "magnet out" on doors in quite a few years! Hope it all works well for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Brief update...
Made one of the hole "plugs" out of sheet metal after tracing the outline on paper. This one is pretty big, about the size of a standard sheet of printer paper. Used about 20 sheet metal screws to secure it to the door and sandwiched some foam stripping between to make it airtight. Then put a piece of dynamat over and called it a night. Only 5 more big to take care of (2 on this door & then the 3 on the other door) and 4 small holes (2 on each door) :(









 

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Subscribed to this as I am stumbling over how to get 8's in my doors as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It'll be a few days till I get another update on here, but here is what I am thinking are the next steps:

- fill the other holes. The big holes will be filled with sheet metal like above, the small ones (with wires going thru) will be filled by placing damping mat over and silicone between the wire and the mat where the wire goes thru.
- cut the MDF mounting rings. Looks like I'll need two 3/4" rings for each driver. I'll glue the rings together and coat them in fiberglass resin/hardener to make them impervious to moisture.
- cut the sheet metal around the factory speaker location to accomodate the 8" driver.
- reinforce the sheet metal around the now bigger mounting opening. I am thinking I'll remove the damping mat there and scrape down to bare sheet metal on the door skin and strengthen it with bondo-glass. This will serve a 2nd purpose of being an adapter for a flat plane to mount the MDF rings to (the inner door skin is not flat enough to mount the rings directly to it).
- put the top half of the door panel on so that the window sill part is pretty much sealed, put in the 8" driver and test for leaks, then plug up whatever leaks I can except of course for the water drainage holes at the bottom of the door.
- the rest will be cosmetic, I need to make some kind of bottom part of the door panel...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just a quick update...
I finally got all the metal plates marked up, cut, and installed to cover the large door openings. I removed the **** mat that I had on the doors and put dynamat extreme on the inner skin (also cut pieces to put over the metal plates I screwed into the doors, so the screws can be accessed and the plates can be removed without taking off the dynamat).

I also ended up ordering a pair of Morel CW8 8" midbass from Solen since they were on deep discount, and plan to use them instead of my Kicker freeairs, but they have not come in yet :eek: They said it takes 10 days for shipment due to customs, etc. :(

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Forgot to mention, I also mounted the Kicker freeair backwards again onto the door and ran it without a HP filter to check for air leaks and vibrations. Buzzing is almost non-existent (I kept banging my knuckles and fist on the inside of the door when I was deadening it to find out where vibrations were coming from and tried to take care of as much as I could that way).
There is air escaping from the water drainage slots at the bottom of the door (as expected) and some air escaping (unfortunately it is also audible, even with the windows rolled up) from where the rubber guide touches the window across the top of the door panel. I was not running a HP filter so if I run these as dedicated midbass, this may not be an issue...will just have to wait and see.
 

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There is air escaping from the water drainage slots at the bottom of the door (as expected) and some air escaping (unfortunately it is also audible, even with the windows rolled up) from where the rubber guide touches the window across the top of the door panel.
That is an issue in every car, but particularly cars with frame less glass. I helped a friend in a DC2 Integra (similar car, but you call it an Acura) and used a dremel to increase the size of the bottom drainige holes, by 100%. So the holes became much larger, but we also treated the holes with etch primer & fish oil to make sure the exposed sheet metal (as small as it was) didn't rust. These holes vent to the exterior so no sound wave cancelation issue, and we managed to reduce the amount of air/sound coming out from the upper window so much that we couldn't hear it.

I was not running a HP filter so if I run these as dedicated midbass, this may not be an issue...will just have to wait and see.
This will also help. Good luck with it, 8's up front it worth all this effort, spesh if your running them as IB'd Midbasses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks mate. I will try that if the air seepage continues to be a problem when using the 8's as midbass. Another thing I am thinking about is to stick a thin layer of foam behind the rubber squeegie thing that hugs the window, so as to make it hug the window a little tighter and allow less air thru (not sure if my description makes any sense).

I can't wait to get these Morel drivers in and get to work. There is something about hearing ALL of a bass guitar in the front of the car when I tried the Kicker freeair 8's in the doors that convinced me to go thru this trouble.

Do you have any pics of the setup you guys did?


That is an issue in every car, but particularly cars with frame less glass. I helped a friend in a DC2 Integra (similar car, but you call it an Acura) and used a dremel to increase the size of the bottom drainige holes, by 100%. So the holes became much larger, but we also treated the holes with etch primer & fish oil to make sure the exposed sheet metal (as small as it was) didn't rust. These holes vent to the exterior so no sound wave cancelation issue, and we managed to reduce the amount of air/sound coming out from the upper window so much that we couldn't hear it.

This will also help. Good luck with it, 8's up front it worth all this effort, spesh if your running them as IB'd Midbasses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Foam strip on the other side of the squeegie, pushing the squeegie tighter against the window. The foam itself won't touch the window. Hopefully a little bit of extra pressure won't hurt the tint.
 

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i think it's worth the trouble... i am so loookin forward to finishing my 8 inch door install. i have one side done,just need to fab a custom grill and it looks like f-glass is my only way out.
 
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