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DC Power alternators have been:

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The higher the amps you try to get out of the same size casing alternator, the lower the lifespan will be. Ask any shop that rebuilds them.

I would recommend finding a local shop to work with. I went from 105 amp to 155 amp on my OEM tsx alternator. That was the highest the shop I worked with was comfortable going while guaranteeing OEM reliability.

Find a highly recommend shop near you to discuss details.

If you need higher than they will go on the OEM casing you will need to find a larger casing that will fit in the stock location or look into custom fabing a way to make a larger case fit in the engine bay.
 

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Not exactly.

The alternator is what is providing the current to run everything when your car is running. Everything from the ecu to the headlights to the stereo.

The battery acts as a reservoir/buffer in the electrical system. If you demand more than your alternator can provide while the car is running, you will draw reserve power from the battery.

When the car is not running the battery is supplying all power, from running accessories to cranking the motor.

The power that is drawn from reserve in the battery is replaced by the alternator once the car is running again.

This is why you can actually remove the battery once your car is running. NOT RECOMMENDED. Remember the battery also acts as a buffer to prevent voltage spikes from the alternator damaging sensitive electrical equipment on the car like the ecu and other computers.
 

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A car will run without an alternator until the battery is depleted to a point where sufficient spark can no longer be generated.

A car will run with the battery disconnected forever....not forever in reality, but certainly much longer than sans alternator.

Both situations assuming an infinite supply of gas.
 

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Yes, obviously they are part of a system. That's why cars come with both.

I was over simplifying to make a point. Like a said in my first post, the alternator supplies the current, the battery acts as a reservoir/buffer.
 
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