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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Originally I plan on using SLS6's in the rear of my car, which are 4-ohm. Anyways, I found out I can probably fit SLS8's in there. Only dilemma is they're 8-ohm, and my amp(MB Quart DSC4125) is rated at 125W [email protected]/ch and 500W [email protected] Bridged.

My question is, would running each driver to their own channel be enough, should I wire both the SLS8's in parallel and bridge them on the amp, or just opt for a larger amp?

Thanks, Kevin N E
 

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Originally I plan on using SLS6's in the rear of my car, which are 4-ohm. Anyways, I found out I can probably fit SLS8's in there. Only dilemma is they're 8-ohm, and my amp(MB Quart DSC4125) is rated at 125W [email protected]/ch and 500W [email protected] Bridged.

My question is, would running each driver to their own channel be enough, should I wire both the SLS8's in parallel and bridge them on the amp, or just opt for a larger amp?

Thanks, Kevin N E
If you want to hear the SLS8's then you can take a listen to my setup, I currently have them installed on a DC1000.4 bridged and its rated at 500 x 2, birthsheet reads at 622 x 2. I am in North Raleigh, shoot me over a PM if you want to listen. I had mine previously on 150 @ 4 ohms and wasnt really satisfied.
 

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Mine are getting 150 @ 8 ohms and they sound pretty good. But they need more power imo. I would def like to put a bridged 1000.4 on em but I don't have the space. I am picking up one of the new zed amps (when it actually comes out) and each side will get 300w @ 8 ohms. Should really wake them up. In answer to your question, I would put as much power to them as money and space permits.
 

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Dont wire them parallel if they are being used as midbasses. You want distinct left and right channels for them (assuming you are using these as midbasses and not as your subs).
If they ARE being used as subs, then by all means, wire them in parallel for a 4ohm load. Feed them 200 watts and you'll be happy. :)
 

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My question is, would running each driver to their own channel be enough, should I wire both the SLS8's in parallel and bridge them on the amp, or just opt for a larger amp?Thanks, Kevin N E
So are you using these for midbass or subs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
They're for mid bass. So, just run a separate amp for them? If so, what amp should I use or rating to look for(at 4ohm) that would be equivalent to ~200W on a 8-ohm speaker?

Thanks for the offer Drake, but I'll be busy for a couple of weekends and don't have time.
 

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This thread is making my wallet feel thin, lol. I was planning on giving a pair of SLS 8s 100w RMS @ 8 ohms.
 

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Dont get me wrong...they will still do well on 100 watts. But more is better ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I don't have much room for two amps in the back; I'd prefer one large one. I already hate the idea of running another amp already.

What about Audiobahn amps? I've only seen them use in subwoofer applications but I really like their use of an internal fan(allows me to hide the amp without it overheating)? Their class D is capable of 250Wx2 @4ohm while their A/B amp is good for [email protected]

Any suggestions of something similar?
 

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Cant believe people still get hung up on the 4 ohm vs 8 ohm thing. Seriously, the electron flow and plastic sheathing color of your SQ wire is only like 100x's more important. READ THE GRAPHS on those two drivers, boys (and note the efficiency differences IF ANY in the passband you're going to be using the drivers.)

Also, Captainobvious continues, yet again, to live up to his namesake. :)
 

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What about Audiobahn amps? I've only seen them use in subwoofer applications but I really like their use of an internal fan(allows me to hide the amp without it overheating)? Their class D is capable of 250Wx2 @4ohm while their A/B amp is good for [email protected]

Any suggestions of something similar?
I'd certainly trust Clarion over Audioburn any old day of the week. Not to mention you're buying authorized from Crutch and have 30 days to play with it and send it back for free if you don't like it for whatever reason.

You never stated your budget, so I can make this very easy for you. Get as much power as you can with your $$$ while satisfying your particular needs in an amp (fan, size, layout, xovers ,etc).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Cant believe people still get hung up on the 4 ohm vs 8 ohm thing. Seriously, the electron flow and plastic sheathing color of your SQ wire is only like 100x's more important. READ THE GRAPHS on those two drivers, boys (and note the efficiency differences IF ANY in the passband you're going to be using the drivers.)

The main issue I'm having is how you would convert the figures.

First instance, 150W @ 8ohm is suggested, but what would this equate to for an amp that's rated at 4 ohm and 2 ohm? If the amp is rated at [email protected], [email protected], does this mean it'll equal about [email protected], and in order to get "[email protected]" I'll need an amp capable of [email protected]?

I'm honestly not too familiar with electronics, and can't really find anything relevant on the subject, hence why I asked about my specific application.

Also, my budget is around $200 but of course, I'm looking for the best bang for buck. I'd like something with a fan so I can keep the amp enclosed without it overheating.
 

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The old 8 ohm 4 ohm argument means a lot more the lower you get in frequency. In other words, I wouldn't give a **** about using a 8 ohm tweeter or mid, but would start to care in the midbass and sub region unless it was 3db more sensitive. In that case it would all balance out.

The belief that the impedance its self doesn't matter is something else entirely. I disagree there. Equal efficiency, plus twice the impedance equals half the output with just about any modern car amp since you will get roughly half the power. Now if efficiency is 3db more with the 8 ohm, you lose nothing, but still car amps are designed to put out more power as impedance decreases, within reason. My opinion is, get a 4 ohm driver if possible, or use a big amp bridged on a 8 ohm.
 
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