DIYMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner
1 - 20 of 33 Posts

· DIYMA Founder
Joined
·
5,213 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can see why Peerless has such a highly regarded name in subwoofers. This driver is just gorgeous to look at. The biggest difference that I can see from the previous XLS version is the large bumped backplate. Other than that, the usual features such as venting under the spider and dustcap, dual aluminum rings in the motor, and an open cast basket. This driver also comes in several versions, suitable for sealed box, ported, or passive radiator applications.

I recommend a quick look at the XXLS application note if you're interested in the design of this driver. You can see alot of attention to detail here in the design, which is probably why the driver measures and sounds so great.

http://www.d-s-t.com/link/main/tech/xxls_intro.htm




Excellent quality control. This is where I believe Peerless truly shines. Specs are nearly all spot on.



No inductive hump below 200hz. Nice :) Measurements taken at 2.83Vrms unbaffled, in free-air nearfield.



Wow. This is about as good as it gets. Nearly perfect symmetry and centering for both BL and KMS curves. However, BL is not "quite" as flat as the Dayton reference throughout it's linear range. Very low inductance variation, around -15% max throughout it's usable range.

Xmax ~13mm 1 way.




Inevitably, people will ask which is better... the Dayton reference HF or the Peerless XXLS. Toss a coin really. I might choose the Peerless if price were not an issue, and I needed to be able to choose between several models with different t/s parameters. Also, Peerless quality control is just excellent. If you don't have the ability to measure t/s parameters for yourself, this may be a better choice. However, the Dayton is a real buy at current pricing and may give you slightly better although inaudible performance.
 
G

·
NP,

awesome work. Here is another californians site for similar testing. Don't know if you have seen it before. http://206.13.113.199/ncdiyaudio/mark/index.htm Not car audio of course, but I do like the format and detail. He also explains what is going on for some of the folks who may be graphically challenged :D . Perhaps you could post a little preface here so that some of the folks who are asking can better comprehend what they are seeing. Basically an explaination of how the higher order products are (generally) more offensive that the lower order, etc. Also, do you think it would be better to list the 2nd and 3rd order at a -db level to the ref? I'm having to do too much math here :rolleyes: .
Lastly, where are you getting all these drivers from? I thought I had alot of drivers laying around, but you're putting me to shame!

Cheers,

AJ
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Thanks for this information on the XXLS. I feel bad for not buying one now.

I am also interested in a speaker test involving an Atlas 12", although they are not being produced anymore since the company is changing motor technology, it may not be possible. When I was designing my subwoofer, it was a tossup between the Atlas and the XXLS 830847 but I chose the Atlas due to it's lower price.

It may be hard to make a side by side test of an Atlas to any other driver since the Atlas can be wired in many different configurations which would give different results. For example I have the coils wired in series for a 6 ohm configuration which increases sensitivity and BL over the single coil / variable Qts configurations. Distortion measurements on the Atlas would be nice to see though.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
464 Posts
In a trunk should I go with the recommended 62 liter sealed box per sub? I am going to be running 2 830845's sealed off about 350 watts. Should I go with a smaller box because of cabin gain?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
280 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
You reckon this thing will go well in a sealed box of only 1.5cu ft? Home use btw...

For some reason I'm getting a lower F3 and Qtc with the dual voice coiled 830847, which according to Tymphany/DST, is designed for vented boxes... :confused:
 
G

·
thread from the dead ... sorry if this has been covered?

But why does the Klippel data show a voicecoil inductance that's one third the value reported on the datasheet?

http://www.tymphany.com/datasheet/printview.php?id=30

I noticed the same trend with the XXLS automotive sub (830877) i tested on a Woofer Tester II ... spec sheet shows 1.3mH, but the measured data was almost exactly half :confused:

Now i know there can be some variation depending on measured signal level and measurement frequency ... but different by a factor of 2 or 3?

By the way, a simple calculation based on the impedance curves (for example, impedance at 10kHz) aligns much more closely with the measured values, than with the spec-sheet values.

:confused: :confused:
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,358 Posts
thread from the dead ... sorry if this has been covered?

But why does the Klippel data show a voicecoil inductance that's one third the value reported on the datasheet?
FWIW, I've found the same thing on all three in my FuzzMeasure measurements of my XLS12s. I believe HobbyHiFi or K+T's results were similar on one of the drivers, though I can't find the magazine.

It makes sense to me that the spec sheet is wrong, because frankly I can't imagine a woofer with the spec-sheet Le of the XLS series would sound as good as these do. But why Tymphany hasn't updated their spec sheets to reflect a reality that is very favorable to them, I have no idea.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5,305 Posts
Bringing it up from the dead. Is there any chance for a plot of VC endurance? I've seen some of the new reviews now covering power/thermal.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,915 Posts
For home use, I would recommend the ....44 version with a (couple of) PR('s). I heard both the sealed (DVC) and PRed version in-room and I find the PRed version is a bit better in the lower notes.

In-car: Use the ....45 version if you don't want to build a large complicated enclosure. I use the ....44 version in car, but I'm building a 6th order bandpass enclosure around it to push the higher notes a little.

I attached the curves of:
830844 + PR (wich I would recommend for home use)
830844 'Candisa style' (wich should be great for car, but complicated to build)
830845 Sealed (great for car use)

greetz,
Isabelle
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 33 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top