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Discussion Starter #1
Picked up a Dynaudio Esotar2 1200 sub, now to decide on mids/highs

So I picked up a 1200 sub. The reason I got it was I’ve tried various subs over the years (still have all of them), and I’m hoping for my Holy Grail experience. The build will be going into my SVT Contour, assuming I don’t get a different car, but I’ll have to fabricate either way, so the new system will move to whatever vehicle. Head unit will probably be a Pioneer, P99 or flip out DVD NEX or something similar.

Subs I’ve used so far in this car:

Morel Ultimo 12" (don’t think I had enough power going to it – sealed box – JL HD 900/5)
Morel Ultimo SC 12” (replaced above sub in same box/amp, better output as I could drive it closer to spec)
Image Dynamics IDQ12 (very pleased – ported box – same amp)


So this is the equipment I have:

New amps I own
JL HD 750/1
JL HD 600/4
I know I’ll probably have to get a second 600/4 depending what mids/highs are picked


Speakers I own (lumped together for what I assumed would go together as sets)

Set1:
Scan Speak D2904/600000 Tweeters
Audio Development MM4 Mids
Dynaudio MW172 Mid-bass

Set2:
Morel Supremo Tweeters (full size)
Morel Elate 9 3-way (obviously tweeters would not be used from this set)

OR do splurge and get either:
Esotar2 110 Tweeter & Esotar2 650 Woofer
Esotar2 110 Tweeter & Esotar2 430 Midrange & Esotar2 650 Woofer

If the choice is 110 & 650 over what I already have, it’s a no brainer, as install will be easier. If it’s all three Esotar2’s, just how much better will this be VS what I already have to use, as install will be the same? I can always sell the other sets to offset the cost of the new Esotar2 speakers.

Thanks.
 

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If you put that sub in a sealed 2.0 cu ft box and feed it only 600wrms, you will be very happy with it. It could hit 25hz area and rumble the car no issue. The response is also very flat in a 2.0 cu ft box. 25-60hz will hit linearly so you don't get that effect where some bass notes sound a lot louder than others. Great dynamics while maintaining accuracy. I also noticed transients are great. I honestly haven't heard a better sub in my vehicle. I tried JL, Focal (not the end game ones), Imagedynamics.

With regards to what speaker you should run. I would just get the Esotar 110 and 650. When the time is right and you feel like you could use some help bringing the upper mids up to your dash where they belong, shell out for the 430 and you will be one happy camper.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If you put that sub in a sealed 2.0 cu ft box and feed it only 600wrms, you will be very happy with it. It could hit 25hz area and rumble the car no issue. The response is also very flat in a 2.0 cu ft box. 25-60hz will hit linearly so you don't get that effect where some bass notes sound a lot louder than others. Great dynamics while maintaining accuracy. I also noticed transients are great. I honestly haven't heard a better sub in my vehicle. I tried JL, Focal (not the end game ones), Imagedynamics.

With regards to what speaker you should run. I would just get the Esotar 110 and 650. When the time is right and you feel like you could use some help bringing the upper mids up to your dash where they belong, shell out for the 430 and you will be one happy camper.
Did you try/spec any other sizes. I've seen a few 1.3-1.5cu ft recommendations, but nothing as large as 2cu ft?
 

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I haven't but I doubt I would want to lose any of the low end extension of this subwoofer trying to fit in anything smaller than 1.5cuft.
 

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What DSP are you running? Helix?


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Discussion Starter #7
Honestly hadn't thought about it. I've always been happy with the capabilities of the higher-end pioneers for TA/EQ/signal, but i haven't invested this much in speakers/amps as I have in the other installs.

My work truck is a Pioneer Flip out DVD, Pioneer GM-D9605 5-chan amp (which I personally think is the best value in amps today), JL 13TW5 sub, old-school Boston Acoustics Pro 6.5 components. I love this set up, and it impresses everyone who hears it, but i know there is better.

If I'd need a DSP even with a pioneer P99 to get the best out of this install, I'd rather put a flip out DVD, as the price of the flip-out and the DSP is probably close to a P99 deck.
 

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You won't be able to integrate the speakers well without a DSP. If you don't have any experience tuning, I suggest you get a Minidsp CDSP 8X12 DL. They're affordable and have great functionality. You won't regret it.


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The Minidsp will automatically give you a tune via Dirac Live that's using a mixture of IIR and FIR filters that's not available on the Mosconi, Helix, Alpine. Those other brands use solely IIR filters.

The Dirac Live tune is most likely going to be better than any of the DSP. You should read more into how it works.

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm going whole hog and am going with all 3 Esotar2's, the 110 Tweet, 430 Mid, and 650 Woofer! I should have them by next week :)
 

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Damn nice man. Now get that Minidsp and report back from Audio Heaven.


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Your gonna be disappointed with the e650’s doing midbass duties, get audio development esa bass if you can’t fit some mw182 or even mw172 . I made that mistake before and had to make kick panels for mw182’s
 

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Since you decided on Dynaudio sub I would stick to Dynaudio front end too.... 172 + 430+110 would be killer
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'll give the 650's a shot. If they are indeed lacking, I'll cut the hole bigger and drop in the 172's I already have.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So I've seen a few videos touting Audio Control for Amps/DSP, especially from Mark @ CarAudioFabrication. How do they stack up against my planned JL Audio HD & MiniDSP setup?

What do I gain/lose if I were to switch?
 

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So I've seen a few videos touting Audio Control for Amps/DSP, especially from Mark @ CarAudioFabrication.
Just so you’re aware - audiocontrol sponsors (pays) CAF. So it’s somewhat of a biased recommendation coming from Mark.

I’m not saying anything negative about adiocontrol, but I think (the above) is important to consider.
 
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