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Pillar Build Materials

7635 Views 122 Replies 23 Participants Last post by  BobTheBirdTurd
Ok, so those that follow my build log know I have to replace the pillars I had built. I have never done any fiberglass work, so I don't really know what to buy and how much. I've watched a ton of videos and read some old forum posts and came up with this this. The plan is to also build a custom sub enclosures eventually, so their may be some things in here that are not necessary for a pillar build. I'm going to buy from Amazon since I don't have to pay shipping and I can get it in a day or 2.

So, here is my list. If there is a better product or if what I have selected isn't necessary, please speak up. If I need more of something than what I have listed, please tell me. I would rather have to much than not enough. I'm also going to buy the materials for the sub enclosure except the resin as it has a shelf life.

* means I bought it and used it.
** means I bought/was given and found it indispensable, I would not build without it.


**Dremel MM50 Multi-Max with 60 and 80 grit sanding paper (This thing saved so much time knocking down all the high spots and contouring my pillars) (There are other brands, I just happen to already have one)

*3ea Painter's Tape 2"

**Aluminum Foil Tape (Not sure exactly what brand I used as I already had it, but this stuff works great for shaping and keeping surfaces clean)

*MEK bottle

*32oz Mixing cups (12ea)

*2" Chip Brushes (36 pack)

1708 Biaxial Mat (Sub Box Material)

*1Gal Polyester Resin + MEKP Hardner

*True Composites 1.5oz Chopped Mat 50"x15' (5yrds) Will 2 of these be enough for pillars and sub enclosure?

**Evercoat Rage Gold 128Fl Oz for finishing filler Please tell me if 128floz is too much, this crap is expensive.

**Duraglas 128FL Oz for bulk filler

*Clean Sheets 12x12 mixing pad (I was using something else and decided to get this, I don't know why I waited as it was super easy to mix the next batch)

Evercoat Keg Blue Hardener

Rexco Partall Paste #2 Mold Release 12oz (Sub Box Material)

*5" Sanding disks (60 through 320grit)

**Eagle MAXCUT Kovax sanding disks. (Was sent a couple of these by another member, and they are very very good, went through about 10 of the Golds for every one of these)

**Sunmight Ceramic Film (Another item that was sent by a fellow member, and this stuff is very good also)

*7 Mil Nitrile Gloves Large (These kept tearing)

*Bondo Spreaders

**Plastic Cards (better than the Bondo Spreaders, especially on curved surfaces)

*Grill Cloth (for shaping pillars)

**CA Glue (I already have this on hand, but adding to the list)

*Precision Bottle for CA Glue application (Once I started working, I found that I wanted more precision with the glue application)

*Wooden Dowel rods

*Sanding Mouse Mini Detail Sander

*5 inch Sanding Mouse

**Dura-Block Round Sanding Block (This was great in combination with the Sunmight Ceramic for shaping curved surfaces. Mine was cut in half to fix the Sunmight perfectly)

*Dura-block Sanding Block 5.6"x2.6" (Also used with the Sunmight Ceramic Film)

**Jumbo 6 Inch Wooden Multi-Purpose Popsicle Sticks (Multipurpose, but mostly use for mixing resin)

200 Pcs Natural Wooden Food Grade Craft Sticks

*1/4 inch Chopped Fiberglass Strands (Used with Cabosil to make a paste)

*Cabosil - Fumed Silica Thickener (Mix with Resin and chopped glass to make a paste that can be used for build up or milkshake alternative. The paste will add strength when mixed with chopped glass)



Wrapping Materials

*Mellotone Premium Black Speaker Grill Cloth

*3M Hi-Strength 90



Carbon Fiber Material List

Adding this section based on work and instructions from @OCD66 You can find his sub enclosure build here. Spare Subwoofer If you want to join his discussion on "Composites", it can be found here. COMPOSITES

Epoxy Resin "Below 600" Will try and update with a specific resin to use but looks like the 635 should work

Carbon Fiber Twill Mat 2x2 3K

Carbon Fiber Twill Mat 2x2 6K (Holds it's shape a little better. Plus, twice the weight.)

Carbon Fiber Fabrics (US Composits)

36in x 48in! EXTRA LARGE Self-Healing CUTTING MAT

OLFA 9mm Stainless-Steel Utility Knife

OLFA 9282 AB-50S 9mm Stainless Steel Snap-Off Blade, 50-Pack

OLFA 60mm Ergonomic Rotary Cutter

Krylon K07020007 10.25-Ounce Easy Tack Repositionable Adhesive Spray




Anything I am missing? Thanks in advance.

Pillar build log can be found here:

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Take it to the next level.
So, looking for the materials for the milkshake. PSSound uses fiberglass powder, so figured I would start there. Anyone use this or like powder? Would this material work for the purpose? Also considered adding in leadshot.

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IMO milkshake is a waste of materials. especially when people mix resin with body filler, neither of which are cheap.
In my wife's X3 and several of my other vehicles I've used concrete or mortar mix inside enclosures and then covered in a thin layer of resin to avoid it breaking apart and dust particles becoming an issue.
Also use a TON of duct seal in each pod or enclosures to add mass and damp resonances. you can pick up duct seal , home depot, electrical aisle , usually bottom shelf
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IMO milkshake is a waste of materials. especially when people mix resin with body filler, neither of which are cheap.
In my wife's X3 and several of my other vehicles I've used concrete or mortar mix inside enclosures and then covered in a thin layer of resin to avoid it breaking apart and dust particles becoming an issue.
Also use a TON of duct seal in each pod or enclosures to add mass and damp resonances. you can pick up duct seal , home depot, electrical aisle , usually bottom shelf
Main reason I want to milkshake is to smoth the innards and try and get rid of any lips from the hole. I also want ti add some mass, and lead seems to be the go to for that.


Take it to the next level.
One day, I'm too deep into what I'm doing now. Once I get poly down, I'll try epoxy and and might tackle Carbon for my final sub enclose that will go in the spare tire well. That's pretty far down the road, maybe summer or fall.
I simply use fine MDF dust and worked fine for me each time.
Milkshake is a great self leveler. That's about it.
Main reason I want to milkshake is to smoth the innards and try and get rid of any lips from the hole. I also want ti add some mass, and lead seems to be the go to for that.
you dont need to make mess with milkshake, you can use damping plates and wool/fiberfill for the task. Sometimes it is better to have uneven / rough enclosure interior to help reducing resonances, standing waves,....I usually use Brax ExVibration paste for that purpose, you can apply it over the damping mats
you dont need to make mess with milkshake, you can use damping plates and wool/fiberfill for the task. Sometimes it is better to have uneven / rough enclosure interior to help reducing resonances, standing waves,....I usually use Brax ExVibration paste for that purpose, you can apply it over the damping mats
Is that stuff like a liquid rubber or butyl?
it looks like a fine sand mixed with fiberglass strands - it is like a paste, very easy to apply, it hardens in approx 20 min and become hard like a rock. you can apply it with spatula or brush.



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Wow. I’ve never seen that stuff. Really seems like audio tech Fischer is on top of everything
I've never heard of it either, I'm not even sure where to get it here in the states.
I've never heard of it either, I'm not even sure where to get it here in the states.
wooferetc.com I think can get it for you. or maybe an MSC dealer
wooferetc.com I think can get it for you. or maybe an MSC dealer
I wonder if Nick can get it?
It is on woofersetc, looks like it has many great uses
Updated list to include:
Sunmight Ceramic Film
Kovax sanding disks
Aluminum tape
Dremel tool
Durablock sanding blocks

I also put indicators of whether or not I used an item and what items I found were most helpful.
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IMO milkshake is a waste of materials. especially when people mix resin with body filler, neither of which are cheap.
In my wife's X3 and several of my other vehicles I've used concrete or mortar mix inside enclosures and then covered in a thin layer of resin to avoid it breaking apart and dust particles becoming an issue.
Also use a TON of duct seal in each pod or enclosures to add mass and damp resonances. you can pick up duct seal , home depot, electrical aisle , usually bottom shelf
Hell yes! Duct seal is great stuff. I have a very heavy set of old kick panels in my basement that are filled with duct seal. The glass is not super thick at all but those things are Abe Lincoln Dead! Another thing I do with duct putty is capture it between layers of deadener. I have even just used duct putty that has been just covered with grill cloth stuck to it and pressed in. I used to use modelling clay but duct putty is easier to find an does not have a real bad smell to it.
Adding another fantastic product to this list.
Rubberized CA glue. I started using it and can honestly say that due to it's slight flexibility, it is much stronger than the same stuff without rubberization. I glued a broken frame for some Oakley glasses back together with it. The joint is in a terrible spot and any other adhesive would have failed by now. The rubberized CA is hopding strong without issue.

I would buy the smaller bottles as I am not always responsible with the cap and they harden up on me. Look for fastcap stuff with "RT" on the end. (Rubber toughened)

FastCap 2P-10 JEL (RT-Rubber-toughened) Industrial Strength Heavy-Duty Super Glue-(CA Adhesive) -2.25oz/64g. Great for use on Vertical Surfaces. Shock Resistant. Activator Sold Separately (4-Bottle) https://a.co/d/bmvIBJ9
Adding another fantastic product to this list.
Rubberized CA glue. I started using it and can honestly say that due to it's slight flexibility, it is much stronger than the same stuff without rubberization. I glued a broken frame for some Oakley glasses back together with it. The joint is in a terrible spot and any other adhesive would have failed by now. The rubberized CA is hopding strong without issue.

I would buy the smaller bottles as I am not always responsible with the cap and they harden up on me. Look for fastcap stuff with "RT" on the end. (Rubber toughened)

FastCap 2P-10 JEL (RT-Rubber-toughened) Industrial Strength Heavy-Duty Super Glue-(CA Adhesive) -2.25oz/64g. Great for use on Vertical Surfaces. Shock Resistant. Activator Sold Separately (4-Bottle) https://a.co/d/bmvIBJ9
While not technically a milkshake, it can be mixed thinner. I used a mixture of resin, Cabosil, and chopped fiberglass. Very strong and can be used as a build up material also.
Added these to the list, I wound up scrounging every old gift and insurance card I could find. Finally bought some of these and made doing the curved surfaces so much easier and saved me a ton on the Rage Gold as I didn't have to waste so much trying to keep the spreader clean.

**Plastic Cards (better than the Bondo Spreaders, especially on curved surfaces)
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It uses the same stock pick, just flipped upside down. Had no idea Bondo had their own.

Wait, the ones you posted are Bodno branded, not Bondo. Hmm. :rolleyes:
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