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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm confused if I want "standard" or "network" mode, on my head unit. I'm also having a couple other issues, upon completing install. Here's the full run down on my hardware.

Head Unit:
Pioneer AVH-2550NEX
(14 watts RMS x 4 channels)

Front doors & dash:
Skar Audio
SPX-65C
  • (2) 6.5" High-Performance Midrange Speakers
  • (2) Aluminum Dome Tweeters
  • 12 dB Passive Crossover Network (2 Crossovers)
  • RMS Power Handling 200 Watts (Pair)
  • Peak Power Handling 400 Watts (Pair)
  • Frequency Response 42 - 20,000 Hz
  • Sensitivity 92 dB
Rear doors:
Skar Audio
FSX65
  • (2) 6.5" 300 WATT MID-RANGE LOUDSPEAKER
  • RMS Power Handling 150 Watts
  • Peak Power Handling 300 Watts
  • Frequency Response 100 - 8,000 Hz
  • Sensitivity 92.5 dB
Amplifier:
Skar Audio
RP-600.5
  • 700 WATT 5-CHANNEL CAR AMPLIFIER
  • Class AB/D 5-Channel Amplifier
  • 4 Way Protection Circuitry: Thermal, Voltage, Speaker, DC
  • RMS Power at 4 Ohms: 60 Watts x 4 Channels + 250 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v)
  • RMS Power at 2 Ohms: 90 Watts x 4 Channels + 300 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v)
  • RMS Power at 1 Ohm: 400 Watts x 1 Channel - 5th Channel (14.4v)
  • RMS Power at 4 Ohms (Bridged): 180 Watts x 2 Channels (14.4v)
  • High Speed MOSFET Power Supply
  • Soft Turn on Circuit
  • Frequency Response: 20Hz - 20kHz
  • Signal to Noise Ratio: 105dB (CH1-4) / 85dB (CH5)
  • Bass EQ Switch: 0dB - 12dB
  • Low Pass Filter (Variable): 50Hz - 500Hz
  • High Pass Filter (Variable): 20Hz - 5kHz
  • Subsonic Filter (Variable): 10Hz - 50Hz (CH5)
  • 4 Gauge Power and Ground Terminals
  • Working Voltage: 8.5V - 14.4V
  • Fuse Rating: 80 Amp
Subwoofer/Amp combo
Kicker 11HS8 "Hideaway"
  • compact powered subwoofer
  • 8" woofer
  • built-in 150 watts RMS amplifier
  • frequency response: 25-120 Hz
  • variable low-pass crossover (50-120 Hz)
  • variable phase control (0 or 180 degrees)
  • bass boost control (0dB to +6dB)
  • speaker-level inputs (will also accept preamp-level signal using optional adapter, item 20646KiSL, sold separately)
  • auto turn-on switch
  • wired remote control
My issues/questions/concerns are as follows:
1. My head unit offers a "network" or "standard" mode. Which mode should I choose, for the system that I have?
Which will offer better sound quality:
Using the Skar Audio Passive Crossovers, or using my head unit's "network" mode, thereby using manual, digital Crossovers?

2. My amp and my subwoofer/Amp combo are both "bridgeable" units, but I am unsure how to bridge them. Do I need to "re-pin" the Kicker 11HS8's harness, or merely remove the RCA's from the head unit, and plug them into the RP-600.5's "5th Channel," and then speaker wire to RCA, from the RP-600.5, to the head unit? Or?....

3. I am attempting to diagnose, "why" I have no sound (very faint volume from the tweeter, none from the SPX-65C) coming from the front left door.

So far, I have unplugged the "front left" component system, and plugged it into other locations, but no change.

Also, I have double checked the wiring from the door speaker, to the Crossover, and today, I will check the wiring from the tweeter to the Crossover, and the input from the Crossover to the amp.

I have read that I can connect the door speaker directly to the amp, using a short wire. Can't I also use my multimeter to check the components?

I appreciate any help/advice that can be given. I've been out of the car audio field for so long, that I'm still trying to catch up. Doing lots of reading and research daily, but I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

Thank you!
 

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First off, Welcome to the forum.

Secondly, Let's take a step back because you are trying to solve all of the issues at once and I believe some issues are connected to the others.

1)
From the manual..
Standard Mode:
4-Speaker System with front and rear speakers, or a 6-speaker system with front and rear speakers and subwoofers

Network Mode:
3-way system with a high range speaker, middle range speaker and subwoofer (low range speaker) for reproduction of high, middle and low frequencies (bands).

Choices you have..
A) Use Standard mode, wire Channel 1 & 2 for front left and right components using their passive crossovers. Channels 3&4 for the rears.

B) Use Network Mode, wire Channel 1 & 2 for the front left and right tweeters, no passive crossovers (Set it at the HU or additionally set it at the amp for safety). Channels 3&4 for the midrange speakers

Network Mode would typically sound better as you can do time alignment and some sort of EQ for each driver(Speaker). Time alignment for speakers mounted in separate locations (i.e. Midrange in doors and tweeters in dash or sails) don't work out so well.


2) I assume that with your question that you currently have the SUB RCA from the HU connected to the SUB's input. This is correct. There is probably a setting to have this output in your HU that you missed. If it is not hooked up this way.. you should do this.


3) This can be diagnosed separately.. but first off.. check to see if you have power to the amp. Is the amp able to be remotely turned on? If so.. do you have a phone with a phone jack to RCA cable?

We need to trouble shoot it at the amp first. connect one channel of the amp output to the input of the crossover, and wire the tweeter and midrange up to crossover. This is making sure the components are working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay, I spent the day (and much of the night, until I was chased off by June bugs, as I was using my outside porch light to see) diagnosing the issue with my front left component section not functioning.

I believe it was a wiring issue, and is now functioning. So I can cross that one off the list.

As far as the mode choice, I think that "network" mode gives the user far more ability to fine tune everything to a further extent, wouldn't you agree?

But, if I'm understanding correctly, if I go with network mode, I won't be using the my passive crossovers (which isn't necessarily bad, since my HU has the ability to adjust the Hz, slope, and dB/oct), correct?

Plus the "time alignment," and I've ordered the Pioneer CD-MC20 Auto-EQ Microphone. So, it looks like "network" mode would be the best choice for my system.

As for my question regarding "bridging" my amp (Skar Audio RP-600.5), with my amp/subwoofer combo (Kicker 11HS8 "Hideaway"), I've included the diagram from the manual, to better explain how it is connected.

Yes, the amp/sub combo, and the amp, both have a remote turn on connection. I was thinking that the RCAs that are plugged in the HU, could be connected into the amp's RCAs, and then speaker wire into the other side of the amp's 5th Channel, and RCAs connected to the other end of the speaker wire, and input back into the HU's RCA left & right.

I believe that would bridge the two, and make the Skar amp the "master," and the Kicker amp/sub, the "slave."
 

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I see what you mean by bridging... but that term is a bit incorrect so it threw me off a bit. What you mean is Daisy chaining.

But I wouldn't do that. Run the RCA's from the HU.. you'll want to be able to adjust Xover freq, phase, TA, etc... from the HU. Daisy Chaining from the other amp will lose a lot of that.

You don't want the SKAR amp to be master. .you want your HU to be master.


The term bridging is typically reserved for summing two amplifier channels together to give you more power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry I haven't reported back. I lost the bookmark, and then had the vehicle in the shop.

Thank you, Blacklisthunter, I'm picking it back up, following your advise. It'll be a minute, as each of my speaker wires have lost their ID tags, due to the heat, effecting the label stickies... I have to re identify each mid-range, tweeter, woofer, and crossover, and then continue to group, and reconfigure.
 

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Sorry I haven't reported back. I lost the bookmark, and then had the vehicle in the shop.

Thank you, Blacklisthunter, I'm picking it back up, following your advise. It'll be a minute, as each of my speaker wires have lost their ID tags, due to the heat, effecting the label stickies... I have to re identify each mid-range, tweeter, woofer, and crossover, and then continue to group, and reconfigure.
Cool cool keep us updated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
"TomV," after finally beginning to wrap my head around it, that's what I've decided as well. However, my frustration level is at an all time high.

I wired the passive crossovers back in to their respective components, and reset my HU to "standard mode."

Upon doing this, I noticed that something wasn't correct. Now, I am only getting audio out of the "front right" door speaker... Oh boy!

Looks like it's back to square one, because when I use the balance/fader to check the front/ left components, no audio comes out, only the opposite door, and not the tweeter. I am confused, as the tweeter and woofer are input to the Crossover, and the Crossover into the amp, forming channel 1.

I have double checking the settings on the crossovers and the amp, to ensure that the physical settings aren't restricting the volume, as well as the RCAs from the HU, and the crossovers input wires...
... help...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, I have tested each speaker wire separately, that is to say, "removed from the crossover," and for whatever reason, the only speaker that is currently functioning, is the "front right woofer."

Tomorrow, I will bust out the multi meter, and get definitive answers, as to what's going on with 2 passive crossovers, 2 tweeters, and a woofer.
 
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