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Just picked up 80prs, 4 x polk mm571's, all running in standard mode with 2 x memphis M3 12's in a 2001 explorer. All power compliments of The Big Belle MC1300D! 4 gauge power and ground, streetwires ZN5 interconnects. I'm very impressed with this deck so far, waiting for the polks to break in!

Any input on this setup or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I am not new to car audio, just this forum, but I definitely have a lot to learn about tuning.
 

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Come to think of it, when I first installed this deck I also put in a new (used) JL e4300 amp, and I did get alt whine from it. I tried grounding the rcas, the deck, etc etc, and only an inline rca noise filter fixed it. Would that point to a noise in the HU or in the Amp? Just curious, if it is the HU, I will send it back to Pioneer to get fixed.
I have been also having some alternator whine issues. First I had two amplifiers connected, MB Quart REF4.80 and PPI P900.4 with no problems at all. Then I swapped PPI P900.4 for a P1000.1, and immediately I started having alternator whine coming from speakers powered by MB Quart. I did a lot of stuff to fix this issue. The only thing that worked was grounding all RCAs to the head unit chassis (see HERE and HERE)

Any ideas if this is a head unit issue or perhaps some issue with amplifiers?
 

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Now, don't get me wrong, it sounds good to me. However, when using AutoTA, it dismisses the rear speakers (since they sit in the lower front doors actually). It simply stores no settings for rear. So I'm not sure what to do here... manual TA perhaps...
Indeed, it's a disappointment that Alpine either intentionally or unintentionally made it impossible to use this head unit with a 2-way front with two wideband mids and a mid-bass in "network" mode. The strange setup you have right now by the means of "standard" mode seems like a normal workaround in your circumstance. It's still a good head unit to use in such a situation, as you get a relatively capable equalizer with many bands, right and left, and time alignment. Granted, since you can't use AutoEQ, you could have achieved the same results by the means of a cheaper head unit, Clarion CZ702.

As far as tuning this manually, tuning TA by ear is very simple (I got a lot of practice with this when I was using a Kenwood Excelon head unit). However, to take a full advantage of this head unit, you really need to tune the EQ and levels. I did some listening with "Manual TA" vs "Manual TA + AutoEQ" and the sound with AutoEQ is much much better, specially in the highs and midrange region. Imaging is very good too with Auto EQ. However, tuning 16 bands of left and right EQ as well as level matching the speakers is much harder by ear. To do this effectively, you need an RTA setup.

Dunno... guess my beef with the unit is it just becomes a fancy DIN deck with a bunch of media options when in NORMAL mode....
To some people this could be a good thing. People spend twice as much money as the price of this deck on an external sound processor with no automatic tuning, and then tune manually, and they actually prefer doing this to using AutoEQ. To each his own I guess. Personally, I'd recommend you to get hold of a good set of more traditional 2-way speakers, and give this head unit a chance. As I mentioned, it really does clear up the frequency response and imaging. This is not something that you can accomplish only by the means of time alignment. By the way, my front speakers use a 6.3KHz crossover frequency between tweeter and woofers, and in no way this pulls the sound down, with or without AutoEQ.
 

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Just picked up 80prs, 4 x polk mm571's, all running in standard mode with 2 x memphis M3 12's in a 2001 explorer. All power compliments of The Big Belle MC1300D! 4 gauge power and ground, streetwires ZN5 interconnects. I'm very impressed with this deck so far, waiting for the polks to break in!

Any input on this setup or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I am not new to car audio, just this forum, but I definitely have a lot to learn about tuning.
Have you run AutoEQ already?

Well, the standard recommendation is to get a hold of a good set of component speakers, wire everything for 2-way active front stage setup+subwoofer (network mode), run AutoEQ and then adjust manually from there. Most people get very good improvement with this right of the bat. You do need to give up the rear speakers for this.
 

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Have you run AutoEQ already?yes

Well, the standard recommendation is to get a hold of a good set of component speakers, wire everything for 2-way active front stage setup+subwoofer (network mode), run AutoEQ and then adjust manually from there. Most people get very good improvement with this right of the bat. You do need to give up the rear speakers for this.
my mm571 are coax, but have an outboard crossover, therefore bi-ampable(is that a word?) But I figured polk knew what they were doing, so I'm running STD mode, utilizing high pass(and sub) crossover only.
 

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my mm571 are coax, but have an outboard crossover, therefore bi-ampable(is that a word?) But I figured polk knew what they were doing, so I'm running STD mode, utilizing high pass(and sub) crossover only.

I don't think there is a big advantage to running coaxial speakers in active mode. For example, there is no need to time align tweeters and woofers separately from each other, since there is effectively no timing delay between tweeter and woofer. Also, if the woofer and tweeter level is already matched, there is no need to match there levels again. The Auto EQ should take care of frequency response issues. Running a coaxial speaker active could make sense if the built in crossover network really sucks. I do have a preference for using component tweeters when its possibly to mount them higher somewhere at the dash level.
 

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This sounds like your rca's are not connected to the rear out channel in the back of the HU. You will always get a number if the HU can hear sound out of the speaker that is being fed a signal thru that particular rca out even if the numbers end up the same as another rca out. Check your rca's here.
hot damn... you may be right. I'm going to double check this now.

your other points are valid, so I had no need to response to those ;)

EDIT UPDATE: Well. The Morels are indeed on the FRONT and the Pioneer Mids are on the REAR. Should this be swapped? I just completed another AutoTA and the "rear" show 0.0 when checking the distance. Oh Well... still sound pretty good sans the door panel creaks, but thats for another topic.
 

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I don't think there is a big advantage to running coaxial speakers in active mode. For example, there is no need to time align tweeters and woofers separately from each other, since there is effectively no timing delay between tweeter and woofer. Also, if the woofer and tweeter level is already matched, there is no need to match there levels again. The Auto EQ should take care of frequency response issues. Running a coaxial speaker active could make sense if the built in crossover network really sucks. I do have a preference for using component tweeters when its possibly to mount them higher somewhere at the dash level.
would adding a pair of tweeters give me any advantage, or options for running active, are you familiar with the quality of polks passive networks? Thanks again for all your help! What about returning my coaxs and getting a set of components up front?
 

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hot damn... you may be right. I'm going to double check this now.

your other points are valid, so I had no need to response to those ;)

EDIT UPDATE: Well. The Morels are indeed on the FRONT and the Pioneer Mids are on the REAR. Should this be swapped? I just completed another AutoTA and the "rear" show 0.0 when checking the distance. Oh Well... still sound pretty good sans the door panel creaks, but thats for another topic.
That placement works and if the mids are indeed playing midrange/midbass frequencies then they are on the correct rca's from the sounds of it. Having it still show 0.0 is odd. Both of mine spit out numbers that are 2-3x the measured distance for all channels. Hmmmmm. I do not know what else to suggest. Sorry.
 

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would adding a pair of tweeters give me any advantage, or options for running active, are you familiar with the quality of polks passive networks? Thanks again for all your help! What about returning my coaxs and getting a set of components up front?
Adding a set of tweeters isn't going to do anything to help you. In fact, I would say it would be more a hindrance than anything. Extra money, more complicated install and it doesn't really get you any closer to an active setup.

If you are truly interested in an active setup, you should sell your two sets of Polk MM571s and pick up a set of components. If you're sold on Polk, check out the MM6501 or MM5251 (whichever will fit best). There are tons of great options out there though from other brands depending on your budget (Pioneer, JBL, HAT, etc.). With an active setup you'll run one channel to each tweeter, one channel to each mid and then you'll have the subwoofer channel(s). This will do away with your rear speakers, and should give you better staging.
 

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Adding a set of tweeters isn't going to do anything to help you. In fact, I would say it would be more a hindrance than anything. Extra money, more complicated install and it doesn't really get you any closer to an active setup.

If you are truly interested in an active setup, you should sell your two sets of Polk MM571s and pick up a set of components. If you're sold on Polk, check out the MM6501 or MM5251 (whichever will fit best). There are tons of great options out there though from other brands depending on your budget (Pioneer, JBL, HAT, etc.). With an active setup you'll run one channel to each tweeter, one channel to each mid and then you'll have the subwoofer channel(s). This will do away with your rear speakers, and should give you better staging.
Yea what he said ^^^
 

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I don't think there is a big advantage to running coaxial speakers in active mode. For example, there is no need to time align tweeters and woofers separately from each other, since there is effectively no timing delay between tweeter and woofer. Also, if the woofer and tweeter level is already matched, there is no need to match there levels again. The Auto EQ should take care of frequency response issues. Running a coaxial speaker active could make sense if the built in crossover network really sucks. I do have a preference for using component tweeters when its possibly to mount them higher somewhere at the dash level.
I am running a full range passive set up using the network mode setting, mainly to get the additional crossover frequencies and slopes between the low and mid channels. I just set the mid low pass to pass to give a full range signal. Of course, I have no intent to run any rear speakers, so the TA is not needed. It also gives me the ability to easily add some imaging tweeters if needed to help raise the soundstage.
 

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I am loving my 80 prs!..... I have decided to loose the coax, and go active(realized I don't need rear speakers, after unplugging my rear rca's for the weekend!) I do like the sound of the Polks, and I used to enjoy MB Quart in 1995-98? haven't heard since, I am considering buying seperates without passive networks(why would I need them!). I have been looking into Focal, and Rainbow(a little expensive), but don't have anywhere to audition! I would really appreciate some help choosing speakers, please let me know if I should take this to another thread, as I am not familiar with forums!
 

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I am loving my 80 prs!..... I have decided to loose the coax, and go active(realized I don't need rear speakers, after unplugging my rear rca's for the weekend!) I do like the sound of the Polks, and I used to enjoy MB Quart in 1995-98? haven't heard since, I am considering buying seperates without passive networks(why would I need them!). I have been looking into Focal, and Rainbow(a little expensive), but don't have anywhere to audition! I would really appreciate some help choosing speakers, please let me know if I should take this to another thread, as I am not familiar with forums!
Yeah, you should start a new thread. The best forum to post to would probably be here:
System Design - Help Me Choose Equipment For My Car - DIYMA Car Audio Forum
 

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Anyone know how much of the source level adjuster I can use on the Subwoofer for setting gains? (+6 to -24)
I have one IDQ10v2d2 setting gain with a test tone 40Hz-10db cross to 80Hz, Is this the right tone?Thanks for the help
 

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Anyone know how much of the source level adjuster I can use on the Subwoofer for setting gains? (+6 to -24)
I have one IDQ10v2d2 setting gain with a test tone 40Hz-10db cross to 80Hz, Is this the right tone?Thanks for the help
I set mine at negative 9. I didn't like the way the positive numbers sounded. Felt like it would clip some songs.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 

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So, on my 80PRS I was setting the gains of my new 4ch amp, and I was using a SMD DD-1 (Say what you want, they are a handy and affordable tool) and when I was testing the output of the HU, my front RCA's did not have any detectable (>1%) distortion, however the rear channel did have some distortion at volume 56/62 on the left side, and 59/62 on the right. I changed out everything that I could to make sure that was the source of the problem, and that is the answer that I came to. Should this be happening? Logic would dictate that the front and rear channel should have about the same distortion levels at the same volume. Anyone else find anything like this? Do you think my HU is messed up somehow?
 
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