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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i'm not able to get them in the doors due to that stupid molex connector bullcrap and i'm not about to use the factory wiring. i plan on using a pair of 6.5" mb quart mids 80hz and down. would they be alright being placed in the factory location in the rear of my car ('00 tracker)? it's more in the back "trunk/hatch" section. if not, i could build some pods and put them firing frontwards from under the front seats. if that's the case, i'll have to put my amps in the back.
 

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Your second option is a much better idea, just make a custom kick panel and place your drivers there or you could do a search on how to get the wires through the molex. I'm pretty sure there's a thread on here that sort of gives you an idea how to do it :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Your second option is a much better idea, just make a custom kick panel and place your drivers there or you could do a search on how to get the wires through the molex. I'm pretty sure there's a thread on here that sort of gives you an idea how to do it :)
eh, the door location is beyond me. i can't even get to the passenger side connnector thru the inside, my hands are too big and there's too much crap crammed into the spot behind the glove compartment. i understand about drilling thru the empty spots in the molex and all that, but i don't want to do try it.

i think i might just make some pods and put them under the front seats firing forward. i could actually use my 8"s as midbass if i put them there.
 

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Why not drill through the doors and then protect the new holes with some rubber grommets and run your wire through that and some wire loom?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Why not drill through the doors and then protect the new holes with some rubber grommets and run your wire through that and some wire loom?
i've thought about it. i went out and bought some grommets. still might do it actually. i might be able to squeeze some 8's in there.

the thing i'm concerned about is whether or not the speaker wire is going to be constantly yanked back and forth when i open/close the doors.
 

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what is your concern with the factory wiring? Resistance, assuming you chose the popular objections.

What is resistance based on? The physical dimensions of the wire. Cross sectional area and length. Smaller the area, longer the length, greater the resistance.

So how do we reduce the resistance of factory wiring? Make it shorter. How?

By running your own large gauge wire straight to the kickpanel and terminate it. Once there, you can cut the factory speaker wires inside the kick panel and solder or crimp in your after market wire.

You've now cut out the long lengths of factory wire and made it effectively 18 inches. From the kickpanel to the speaker only. This cuts L (length) so low that resistance is a non-issue.

Many folks believe it's a non-issue to begin with. I'm one of them. Assuming it's not 28 gauge. I believe the test was >4% of the coil resistance to have a sonic effect, as written by one website. OEM wire will likely not make the cut, but can be easily measured.

But even then, I've laid out a plan that will let you cut out 90% of the "high resistance" stuff.
 

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the thing i'm concerned about is whether or not the speaker wire is going to be constantly yanked back and forth when i open/close the doors.
The 'hot rod' crowd has items for this. Somebody makes woven plastic (or metal) sleeves with a sliding grommet at each end. You put the one grommet in the fender and one in the door, and then run the wires through the cable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
what is your concern with the factory wiring? Resistance, assuming you chose the popular objections.

What is resistance based on? The physical dimensions of the wire. Cross sectional area and length. Smaller the area, longer the length, greater the resistance.

So how do we reduce the resistance of factory wiring? Make it shorter. How?

By running your own large gauge wire straight to the kickpanel and terminate it. Once there, you can cut the factory speaker wires inside the kick panel and solder or crimp in your after market wire.



You've now cut out the long lengths of factory wire and made it effectively 18 inches. From the kickpanel to the speaker only. This cuts L (length) so low that resistance is a non-issue.

Many folks believe it's a non-issue to begin with. I'm one of them. Assuming it's not 28 gauge. I believe the test was >4% of the coil resistance to have a sonic effect, as written by one website. OEM wire will likely not make the cut, but can be easily measured.

But even then, I've laid out a plan that will let you cut out 90% of the "high resistance" stuff.
ah, but the only place i could effectively connect my aftermarket wire to the speaker wire is behind the h/u. from there, the factory speaker wire is loomed up with others over to each side into the molex connectors. it's more than 18" of factory wire, more like several feet. would that still make a difference? i was wanting to run my fronts with my amp bridged @ 70 x 2. i could also run them at 25 x 2 (it's a 4 channel amp). again, would there be a difference? could that length of factory wire handle 70 watts?

if there is a difference in the extra length, maybe i can see if i can splice it farther towards the molex connectors. also, it's pretty thin wire.
 

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could that length of factory wire handle 70 watts?
Sure can.

Like installing an after market alarm, your ability to tap into the speaker wires in the kick panels requires your splitting the two wires out of the loom at the most appropriate or accessible locations then cut or tap.

FYI every churn'em installer I know (read: every installer on the planet still in business that isn't taking in the $30,000 customers and booked for months in advance) simply puts power, remote, and all the speaker wires in a vise and tapes EVERYTHING up into one bundle that travels from behind the radio to where the amp will be located.

The wires are simply tapped into the factory wiring behind the radio via wire harness. No factory wire is tampered with (and every pro installer worth their salt will refuse to tamper with the OEM wiring), and installation is FAST.

That being said, your typical get-'em-in, get-'em-out installer sells 50x4 and 50x2 amps, not 150x4 as usually run by our clique of hobbyists. So your mileage may vary, I suppose.

If it were my car, I wouldn't give 70 watts a second thought. Splicing into the kick panels is WAY too much work given 70 rms. Behind the radio would be fast, easy, and the neatest way to run the wire.
 

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I used my factory wire from the harness behind the radio that went into my doors and ran up to 250x2 rms threw it no issues it was like 20-22ga too and now ran new wire into my doors 16ga for only 150-250 watts per side. You should not limit yourself to not using stock wires it will be fine. Its not power wire so don't worry too much get them 8's if they fit installed in there hehe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
cool, thanx for all the replies. i was worried for a bit. some people say this, others say that. i really didn't think it would make a big difference. btw, the 8"s won't fit but it doesn't matter, i'll probably use them as subs anyway.
 

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exactly. To an amp = DC; need for larger wire. Out of an, such as going to the speakers = AC; no need for large wire.

16 gauge is running through my entire system, even on my subs. It does just fine.
WTF :eek:

Basic Car Audio and Electronics http://www.bcae1.com/

current equals water flowing in gallons per minute [ amperes ]
direct current = only flows one way
alternating current = flows two ways , forwards and backwards

A firehose carries a lot of current [ large flow ] at a high pressure [ voltage ].

A garden hose carries a little flow[ current in amperes ] at low pressures [ 12 volts from battery ].

16 gauge wire would have a higher resistance thus needing more pressure.

If he was to check his stuff with Ohms Law , he would find out that he is not getting anywhere near peak performance from his equipment [ kinda like disconecting spark plug wires on a V8 so you're only using 4 or 6 cylinders ];)

If you don't want to push the envelope [ above 100 mph ]

If he owned a sports car he could skip the z-rated tires since 70 mph would be as fast as he would go !
 

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^ I have no idea if you are disagreeing with me or not. However, I've always been told that speaker wire requires less surface area due to AC. It's pretty obvious that larger is always better, but if someone's asking 'is 16 gauge good enough' then in most cases it is.
 

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Are you considering car audio ?
two thru sixteen will prove to be invaluable to your wallet [ if you have money to burn ,please ignore anyhting about how a sound system works, connect the wires and go ! ]:D

Read it once , then twice , then thrice , etcetera

There are interactive [ moving pictures included ] use them {please} they are fun [ on, off , on think ], off think ], on off ].
http://www.bcae1.com/

2] electrons
3] voltage
4] volt
5] current
6] ampere
7] resistance
8] ohm
9]circuit
10] power
11] watt
12] Ohm's law
13] Ohm's law with algebra
14] fuses
15] circuit breaker
16] wire
 

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^ I have no idea if you are disagreeing with me or not. However, I've always been told that speaker wire requires less surface area due to AC. It's pretty obvious that larger is always better, but if someone's asking 'is 16 gauge good enough' then in most cases it is.
16 gauge wire equals a 22 caliber bullet { OK ? }

squirrels Yes ! rabbits Yes ! deer No ! bear hell No !! polar bear { it's your ass !! }:D
 

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If you had 2 lanes of traffic going in each direction ? and you wanted to move more vehicles thru there in less time { big subbass }.

A] reduce to one lane of traffic in each direction

B] add a third lane of traffic in each direction

A or B make more sense ?
 

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Ok. so you're arguing my point about my subwoofer, then? Seriously, I have no problem with being told I'm wrong on something, but you have to be clear; are you talking about what I'm doing, or what the OP is asking about? Two different things. If you're speaking on me using 16 for my subs, then yes, you probably are correct. They might benefit from larger wire. But, the op was asking about using factory wiring for 6.5's; which 16 gauge, though not questioned, is plenty sufficient. A totally different topic that has been completely buried by this OT posting.

IOW: If you're going to preach, try not to be so vague. Next time I'll just copy & paste from caraudio.com... that should be fun for you. ;)
 

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besides 70 watts from an amplifier si not that much voltage. and short runs for your subs with 16 ga is probly just fine too. too many people over wire in car audio. do you think people that run surrounds with 25 ft or more lengths use 10ga? i know 16 runs my surrounds with zero problems so bikinpunk is prolly fine with 16 ga runnin a couple of feet.

:cool:
 
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