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Discussion Starter #21
Just so you are aware a 5x7 has slightly more cone area than a 6.5 and practically drops right in with gasket tape. If you go three way and you can fit it a 6x9 would have similar cone area to an 8” and be ideal for midbass. I personally like my JL C5 5x7 midbass drivers in my truck and have no desire to change them and I have Audiofrog GB60 to compare them to which cost more than twice the price.
Thats the kind of info I need, JC. I have been told that nothing beats cone surface area when comparing apples to apples but wasn't sure the 5X7 had the capability of the same punch due to its shape. So i guess I have a solid plan now. Passive crossovers for the C5 component speakers and active on the single C7 plus a single 12" or 13" JL shallow sub all at 4 ohms and from one amp. If I see that I need to add rears (which from what I hear is doubtful) then I can simply add to the back doors and add a small amp.
 

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Just so you are aware a 5x7 has slightly more cone area than a 6.5 and practically drops right in with gasket tape.
This is actually incorrect. A 5x7 has 27.5" surface area and the 6.5" has 33.2". However, a 6x8 has 37.7" and 6x9 has slightly more at 42.4"
 

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Discussion Starter #23
The only thing that sucks about the 5X7 or 6X8 sizes are the limited options you are afforded. But, they are an easy fit. The C5's are proven component speakers so I am good with that. The only other decent option is the Focal ISU's which are decent but not quite as good as the C5's from what I hear.
 

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This is actually incorrect. A 5x7 has 27.5" surface area and the 6.5" has 33.2". However, a 6x8 has 37.7" and 6x9 has slightly more at 42.4"
I stand corrected, the 5x7 is slightly smaller and it’s the 6x8 that is slightly more. Wish JL Audio published their specifications of the JL C5 but they don’t.
 
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Discussion Starter #27
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Well, that’s it for today fellas. Got the floors and firewall done. Almost done with the back window wall then it’s on to the door panels.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
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Hats off to all of you installers out there. Especially the ones that do it for a living. Laying this mat is time consuming and tedious at times. Anybody that ever gripes about the cost of labor to install this stuff has no idea and aught to give it a shot themselves. They will learn quickly
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Following this as I am also doing similar upgrades in my 2104 F250 CC. I have ordered the SuperCrewSound box for the 12TW3-D4 that I have. I also am considering going with a 3 way up front, but might just stick with 2 way for ease. I am looking at DSPs right now.

If you are interested in the 12TW3-D4, I have a 2nd one that I plan on putting in the classifieds shortly.
Hey, Mike. Hope all is well. I have been doing some digging on the sub enclosures. The more I read the more I want to stay away from any enclosure that has you remove a cab vent. Read some horror stories of folks having issues after removal due to lack of air pressure equalization. I have decided to mock up mine with regular plywood (thinner than 3/4") and once I get it right build a box from birch or MDB, with an vertical opening from bottom to top around the cab vent. Just food for thought.
 

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2017 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 double cab sport
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Subd to check out what you end up doing
 

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Following...nice job so far
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Any more updates?
As of today I am waiting on Ford to send me my two front door mirror sails for the tweeters. The stock ones in my truck with the premium sound are a different shape and would make it harder to install the tweeters. Expected ship date is Feb 2nd.
I should note that during this time away from the thread I have revamped my component list several times and kept it up to date. This should be a nice build once I get going. Quick question about breaking in speakers. HAT says to play large range dynamic music for a certain period of time. What type of music and at what volume are they describing?
 

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2017 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 double cab sport
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As of today I am waiting on Ford to send me my two front door mirror sails for the tweeters. The stock ones in my truck with the premium sound are a different shape and would make it harder to install the tweeters. Expected ship date is Feb 2nd.
I should note that during this time away from the thread I have revamped my component list several times and kept it up to date. This should be a nice build once I get going. Quick question about breaking in speakers. HAT says to play large range dynamic music for a certain period of time. What type of music and at what volume are they describing?
I imagine it just means a variety of all types of music at whatever volume isn’t clipping. Most high end speakers get better the more they’re played. It seems like I hear more and more detail in my Utopia’s the more I play them
 
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Discussion Starter #35
I imagine it just means a variety of all types of music at whatever volume isn’t clipping. Most high end speakers get better the more they’re played. It seems like I hear more and more detail in my Utopia’s the more I play them
Thanks for the reply. I have been doing more digging on this here and other sites and it seems you are correct. My initial reaction to it was the thought that I didn’t need to run too much volume through them but glad it’s open to all volumes minus clipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
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So I decided to get going on this while I am waiting on a few Ford parts. I removed the screen and the CD player in order to install the PAC Audio integration unit.
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After plugging in the unit this was the best open spot to mount it. Here I can still get access to it without removing the screen and CD/radio unit. Just pop the face off and a few screws later I can lift up the dash accessory tray and get to the unit. I am going to Velcro the unit to the underside of the tray.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
While I am waiting on the Velcro glue to age I am going to go ahead and route my RCA’s down the passenger side back to where my amps will be installed soon. I am using the Stinger 8000 quads.
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Discussion Starter #38
Routing through the dash should be pretty straight forward. I let the glove box relax and found a nice route above it that will allow my RCA’s and trigger circuit to run above the glove box and down through the kick panel into the wire way along the door seal.
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Discussion Starter #40
So I started to have my sub enclosure made but then again, what fun is that? So I decided to go ahead and do it myself. I bought this Kreg universal circular saw track and it’s actually working out really well.
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