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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
290277

Here is my first go at the back plate of the enclosure. I do not really want to get rid of my cabin vent so I will have a block off plate on the inside of the enclosure. Will it work? Who knows at this point but it’s worth a shot. If you remove the cabin vent and you end up regretting it due to poor AC function etc. the only way to install it back in its place is by removing the bed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
290278

One thing I do notice it that I will have to re-drill the mounting holes in the rear window motor bracket in order to raise the motor up as far as possible so that the cable isn’t at such a severe angle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
290279

So this being my first box build this is how I am ultimately getting my design. I do not plan on tilting that half of the seat forward once the enclosure is in place so I am calculating my air volume by having my back plate in place and adding a piece along the contour of the seat. The face of my enclosure will be on the inside of the angled piece shown giving me 3/4” from the back of the seat to the face of the enclosure. This way I can take my bottom and top widths and play around with the angles until I get the correct volume. May be the long way around but it’s working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
290319

Well, after finalizing everything I was able to shorten the length enough to avoid relocating the window motor. I have a few choices for a block off plate. Another piece of MDF or a 3/16” piece of aluminum. The TW13 will be in front of one corner of the block off plate so I thought since aluminum cannot be magnetized and is thinner than the 3/4” MDF that should work. If anyone has a thought about this I would appreciate you chiming in. Gonna layout the sub hole and assemble it tomorrow
 

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2017 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 double cab sport
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Looking good bro! Gonna be nice!
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
So I made a rookie mistake and didn’t calculate for the thickness of the sub above the surface of the enclosure. I calculated for the driver displacement and excursion but didn’t realize the face of the sub was so thick. 3/4” thick. This had me scrambling a bit and thinking I would have to start over but I just so happened to have made one good mistake. I miscalculated one section of the box where I was to remove the thickness of the MDF on both sides giving me more volume. After triple checking my calculations I was able to reduce the depth at the bottom from 7” to 6.5”. This allowed the sub to be clear of the back seat and still give me the .80 of cubic feet volume that I needed. Re-trimming all of the center and end supports was all that was needed.
I do not have a router and want to remove 1/4” of surface area for counter sinking the sub so I will probably take it to UAF tomorrow and have them do it, along with installing the terminal posts and wiring it.
so today is time to pre-drill, glue, screw, and install everything. I am going with the aluminum block off plate. Should work perfectly. Pics to follow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Well, I’m still pecking along at this build. It’s difficult to make a lot of headway at one time because I am only home for a few days every other weekend. I plan on making my amp rack out of aluminum plate that I had at the shop then wrapping it in a carbon fiber gun metal gray vinyl wrap. That starts tomorrow. But today I fabricated my main fuse bracket, installed it, terminated main fuse on the field side and pulled the power wire through the cab to the back of the truck. Pics below.
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292207
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Well I gotta go visit the grandkids but before I go I was able to get a lot of the amp rack done. I still have two holes close to the distribution block to cut out and a slot to cut out between the ARC amps. Then I am going to finish the mount. After that I will wrap the aluminum plate before re-installing everything and wiring it in. My plan is to not have surface wire. Everything will be run behind the rack. Hopefully tomorrow. I really need a threaded rivet set up for the mount of the rack but I don’t have one so I plan on using countersunk sheetmetal screws. If they give me trouble due to vibration I will get a rivet tool.
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I like the amp rack design Brad...looking good.
 

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Thanks, Binh. I getting there slowly but surely. You thawed out over there yet? Come through the storm ok?
Looks like everything's coming together nicely Brad.

I've been living in Texas for most of my life and I've never experienced temperatures like that before. And to celebrate the momentus occasion the power commission in Texas decides to shut off my power for the two coldest days. They're so thoughtful. /s. Anyways I survived it, thanks for asking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I like the amp rack design Brad...looking good.
Thanks, Scott. I have the bottom row of components a little high but the design was to try and do a work around for my tire jack. It didn’t work so I am relocating the jack and will lower the bottom row of components to where it looks a bit more spaced out. I also went ahead and ordered a threaded rivet tool. I will use 1/8” stand off washers so all of the tywraps will be underneath the components and out of view. All wiring on the back side of the plate. How is yours coming along? You up and about yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Looks like everything's coming together nicely Brad.

I've been living in Texas for most of my life and I've never experienced temperatures like that before. And to celebrate the momentus occasion the power commission in Texas decides to shut off my power for the two coldest days. They're so thoughtful. /s. Anyways I survived it, thanks for asking.
Well it’s sucks the power was out but I’m glad you pulled through ok. I need to send you some pics of these dip switch settings to make sure they are correct if you don’t mind. It will be next time I am home in a few weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Well I took an extra day off before heading back out of town so I decided to start my front door tasks. Sound deadening, midrange speaker adapters, etc. I bought a cordless Makita router. The thing is awesome but it’s far from ideal for what I am doing. Need a router table but not buying one so I had to make do.
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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
The speaker adapter material is 1/4” ABS. I simply traced a Scosche adapter that I already had then used a hole saw for the speaker. Just so happened that the needed HAT hole dimension is the same exact dimension of a 3” hole saw.
I had just received my Mobile Solutions CA glue set so I used it to attach the baffles for now. The baffles will actually be sandwiched between the door and the adapters.
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