[MatthewB]

So this is the end of a JBL Ms8 cable This part plugs into the display. This looks like a simple 2.5mm(1/8th) plug. On JBL's website they state that the Ms-8 comes with a 19.7-foot (6-meter) three-conductor cable for display unit. However this plug has four conductors separated by 3 plastic insulators.

The ground broke first so i soldered a piece of wire between the two broken ends, display worked one time then the red wire broke off. I can re solder everything but its so fragile i need a better solution.

Parts express sells this:

at first thought this looks right but then below the picture its states this:

Tip = Microphone (NOT connected), 1st Ring = Right Speaker +, 2nd Ring = Left Speaker +, Base = Common Ground -. Right angle plug with 12" pigtail.
• Note: In order to reduce the chance for noise, there is no conductor connected to the tip of the 2.5 mm plug (microphone positive). The specification sheet is shown for informational purposes only. Microphone conductor (shown in specification sheet) is not present on product.

So this tells me its got three wires coming out if it even though its got a picture with 4 wires coming out of the end of the pigtail.

So I think JBL is confused when they say its a 3 conductor plug. Sure its got 3 conductors but it also has a ground, isnt that a conductor? Every time i call jbl Its on back order..for the last year.

Every 2.5 trrs 4 conductor plug i can find online does not have a conductor going to the tip of the plug. If its really a 3 conductor plug like jbl says the above cable from parts express should work.

Any ideas?

About to ditch this S**t and buy a new processor but iknow there are other problems with doing that $$$.

 

[TrickyRicky]

You can count the separate rings on the connectors end...you'll see that the one in your pic has four positions/sections. So you have to use one the same, cut the wire about 12" from the end you need. Cut the one you have all messed up (the original), leaving at least 6" of wire of the messed up end.

Carefully split the jacket 1.5" from each end then strip the wires just enough to solder them. You'll need small shrink tubing something like 1/8" or smaller.


Before making any solder connections, get your old messed up end and with a meter check which color wire goes to which position of the plug end. Then on your new cable end solder the corresponding colors/sections of the plug end.


I won't be surprised if the last to bottom sections are wired together as ground or one left open. But by looking at your pic you can tell you do have four wires/conductors. So the black wire may be the ground but for SIGNAL not chassis ground (part of your 12v system). The chassis ground may be the bare wire, so I would guess your first pin (from tip to base) is right, second is left, third is signal ground, bottom/base is chassis ground.

 

[MatthewB]

I get why you are saying. I would still have to re solder the red wire back on to the plug first. I want to you use the setting on a dmm that beeps when you complete a circuit right? And I can't even locate a plug that all four sections are wired for sure. Some look like they should be but they aren't.

 

[MatthewB]

So I got out the ddm. Each conductor is its own entity. I had a short about a foot down from the broken connector on the blue and black wires. Cut a foot off and have continuity from ms8 side plug to wire ends. I found a barrel 2.5mm 4conductor on digikey. No angle ones but it's is wired to all four sections of plug.

 

[SPLEclipse]

If it makes things easier, those connectors are commonly referred to as "TRRS". The ubiquitous 3 ring ones for headphones and such are labeled Tip, Ring, Sleeve. Adding in another "Ring" section makes the "TRRS".

In order to map out which wire goes to which part of the connector, you can use the "beep" function, or use the resistance setting turned to it's lowest setting (probably 20 or 200ohm). Touch one probe to the wire you're testing, and then touch the other probe in sequence allni the T-R-R-S sections until you show continuity.

 

[MatthewB]

If it makes things easier, those connectors are commonly referred to as "TRRS". The ubiquitous 3 ring ones for headphones and such are labeled Tip, Ring, Sleeve. Adding in another "Ring" section makes the "TRRS".

In order to map out which wire goes to which part of the connector, you can use the "beep" function, or use the resistance setting turned to it's lowest setting (probably 20 or 200ohm). Touch one probe to the wire you're testing, and then touch the other probe in sequence allni the T-R-R-S sections until you show continuity.

Yes sir. That's exactly what I did. It makes sense the smallest solder connection is the tip the first ring is the next one the second in is the second one then the ground in the middle. The dmm let me know that besides the breaking off of the wires at the solder connections I also had a short about a foot down. Worked good.

 

[ATOMICTECH62]

Per your PM to me I will answer it here.

There are 4 wires.1 of them is a shield.1 of them is a common ground.1 is for positive voltage to power the lights and circuit board.The other is for data that the controller sends to the unit.

Its been so long I dont remember which goes where on the plug.Sorry.
But if you power the unit up you should be able to find the grounds and positive.This will leave one left that will be the data.

 

[MatthewB]

I believe red is power black is ground bare is aheikd and blue is data. It would make sense that way. At least the connector I found has a schematic that tells you which color wire goes where. So I can just match em up since I left all wires attached to original plug as trickyricky said to do, Ivan use it as my guide. Well they it shipped from digikey today so should be up and running by this weekend just in time for the new/used sub I picked up from foreman. Although that esotar 1200 really tempted me for $840 this morning in the classified section.