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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking to buy a amp for my new typr r speakers i purchased for my 2007 crew cab silverado.

-set 1 for the front doors
Type-R 6-1/2" 2-way Component System
Power Handling:
Peak: 660 watts per set / 330 watts each side
RMS: 220 watts per set / 110 watts each side

-set 2 for the rear doors
6-1/2" Type-R Coaxial 2-way Car Speakers
Power Handling:
Peak: 600 watts per pair / 300 watts each
RMS: 200 watts per pair / 100 watts each

now i have two amps picked out that are in my price range

-amp number 1
MB Quart ONX4.125 ($165)

-amp number 2
MB Quart Q4.150 ($200)



now i am new to the whole audio deal, i have installed decks and just your every day speakers and decided its time to step the system up a notch by getting some speakers that i can amp. now my other questions are other then the choice of amp

1.which amp will be best and why?
2.should i wire my components(front door set of speakers) in series or parellel?
3.and any other information you think i should know before i go head first into this?

please make you replys easy to understand being i am new to this and the forum and would like some knowledgeable people to lead me in the right direction. Thanks

:NOTE: i am very sorry that there is no links for the amps you will have to google them quick for there specs. Reason being i do not have 5 points yet or something along them lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well the truck is a crew cab so it has 6.5 in all 4 doors and factory components in the front. so i will mount the coaxils in the rear in that 6.5 hole and the fronts where the factory 6.5 went and the tweeter where the stock one went. im new to this and would like to know if there is anything special like seal around the speakers for better sound quality. you ask that question like the speakers wont work in my truck?:confused:

And why would you choose amp number 2 over amp number 1?
 

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the onx4.125 will meet your needs just fine. it is 125 rms per channel so make sure you set your gains properly.

for your comps, the left woofer speaker wire (+ and -) and the left tweeter's speaker wire (+ and -) both run to the left xover. the woofer wire connects to the woofer output on the xover and the tweeter to the tweeter output. then you run 1 strand of wire (+ and -) from the xover input to the left front channel + and - on the amp. then the same for the right channel.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dukenut- so if im understanding correctly you think wiring them in parellel is in my best intrest compaired to series. parellel i can basically take the left woofer and left tweeter and run + and - from both woofer and tweeter to the left channel on the amp so there will be 4 wires running to 1 channel correct? you just described it in a diffrent way i believe...

And by what Dukenut is saying i should make sure to set my gains properly meaning the speakers will not handle the full 125 rms? i have been told if you some where in that 75%-125% range of the max rms you will be okay..
 

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If you want the most you would get 125rms, that way you can go to the speakers ratings without clipping. If you set the gains real high and clip that amp you could damage them, so I don't recommend an amp over the speaker ratings if you are just going to beat it hard. But for SQ people often run much larger amps than they need to eliminate clipping issues. They set the gains so the amp never goes loud enough to clip, or breakup/etc.

If you don't need to play it loud then a 4x50rms amp would work fine, the 4x125 is going to get louder and stay clean is about the only difference.

If you buy comps they should come with a crossover, you can't just run them off an amp with out one. Some have a box you mount with the stuff in it, then wire the comps to that, then one wire box to the amp. Some comps will put the capacitors on the speakers, then you do just wire them parallel. Its not really parallel with a tweeter and mid with passive crossovers, because the two do not play the same frequencies, its more like a frequency goes to one or the other.

To be real parallel both would play the sound and ohm load would get cut in half. But, (not wanting to confuse you) if they do have the crossover on each speaker then far as *wiring* you do parallel them. The crossovers will keep the amp from seeing both speakers at any particular frequency, so to the amp they will not be parallel, will not change ohm load.

If you play a tweeter with no crossover it will fry in no time. Otherwise you can run active where the crossovers are in the amp or head unit, but then you need an amp channel for every speaker and they all have to be wired separate. Plus you need an active crossover that works at the frequencies you plan to use.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you want the most you would get 125rms, that way you can go to the speakers ratings without clipping. If you set the gains real high and clip that amp you could damage them, so I don't recommend an amp over the speaker ratings if you are just going to beat it hard. But for SQ people often run much larger amps than they need to eliminate clipping issues. They set the gains so the amp never goes loud enough to clip, or breakup/etc.

If you don't need to play it loud then a 4x50rms amp would work fine, the 4x125 is going to get louder and stay clean is about the only difference.

If you buy comps they should come with a crossover, you can't just run them off an amp with out one. Some have a box you mount with the stuff in it, then wire the comps to that, then one wire box to the amp. Some comps will put the capacitors on the speakers, then you do just wire them parallel. Its not really parallel with a tweeter and mid with passive crossovers, because the two do not play the same frequencies, its more like a frequency goes to one or the other.

To be real parallel both would play the sound and ohm load would get cut in half. But, (not wanting to confuse you) if they do have the crossover on each speaker then far as *wiring* you do parallel them. The crossovers will keep the amp from seeing both speakers at any particular frequency, so to the amp they will not be parallel, will not change ohm load.

If you play a tweeter with no crossover it will fry in no time. Otherwise you can run active where the crossovers are in the amp or head unit, but then you need an amp channel for every speaker and they all have to be wired separate. Plus you need an active crossover that works at the frequencies you plan to use.
I have a few questions on what you have explained please.

1. so basically clipping is when the gain is maxed and the amps out put is being maxed? (if so to resolve this i will run about 80-90% gain if this will fix this)

2.my comps do have cross overs for the tweeters and are you saying its a mistake to run the tweeter and the woofer in parallel with each other?

*(For an example explain to me in as simple of a manner as possible how to wire the driver door tweeter, crossover, and woofer to the same channel on the amp) this is the part where you lost me

And for you information if oyu didnt know the truck is a 4 door so the 2, 6.5 coaxils will be in the left and right rear doors and the 2, 6.5 components will be in the left and right front doors. Thanks for the help
 

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As far as your gain, it is only to match the output of your headunit to The input of the amp. Don't think of it as a volume adjustment for your amp. You want to set it so the amp doesn't max out too soon on your radio volume knob. When it's all set, you want your amp playing clean at full volume, meaning not distorting. You also want this to not be to powerful for your speakers, causing them to distort... It's a balance between everything.

On a 4 channel amp, the front outputs are for your comps, rear for your coax speakers. Your comps will have a crossover, that splits the signal to go to The appropriate speakers(mid and tweet). One amp channel + and- to The input + and - on crossover. Your crossover will them have outputs (+and-) to go to your speakers. One set for your tweeter, and One set for your mid. Hook them up to The corresponding + and - on those speakers. No parallel or series wiring need.

The crossover will maintain the appropriate load for your amp. If they are rated at 4ohm, that is for the whole set (mid, tweet, and crossover).
Make a little more sense?
 

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your crossover box will have the markings something like this.

input woofer tweet
+ - + - + -

Thats six different places to put wires in the crossover box.

input + - is the wire from the channel on the amp

woofer + - is the wire to the 6.5" woofer

tweet + - is the wire run to the tweet.

So you will have one wire running into the crossover from the amp, one wire running out of the crossover to the woofer and one wire running out of the crossover to the tweet.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
As far as your gain, it is only to match the output of your headunit to The input of the amp. Don't think of it as a volume adjustment for your amp. You want to set it so the amp doesn't max out too soon on your radio volume knob. When it's all set, you want your amp playing clean at full volume, meaning not distorting. You also want this to not be to powerful for your speakers, causing them to distort... It's a balance between everything.

On a 4 channel amp, the front outputs are for your comps, rear for your coax speakers. Your comps will have a crossover, that splits the signal to go to The appropriate speakers(mid and tweet). One amp channel + and- to The input + and - on crossover. Your crossover will them have outputs (+and-) to go to your speakers. One set for your tweeter, and One set for your mid. Hook them up to The corresponding + and - on those speakers. No parallel or series wiring need.

The crossover will maintain the appropriate load for your amp. If they are rated at 4ohm, that is for the whole set (mid, tweet, and crossover).
Make a little more sense?
Yes it makes perfect sense now! my only question to you is which amp would you pic from the two i posted and why? Thanks allot jcollin 76
 

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Discussion Starter #11
your crossover box will have the markings something like this.

input woofer tweet
+ - + - + -

Thats six different places to put wires in the crossover box.

input + - is the wire from the channel on the amp

woofer + - is the wire to the 6.5" woofer

tweet + - is the wire run to the tweet.

So you will have one wire running into the crossover from the amp, one wire running out of the crossover to the woofer and one wire running out of the crossover to the tweet.
Thanks tipptop that is a great way of putting it. i understand completely now what amp would you pick and why? im trying to get opinions and reasons on 1 of the 2 amps
 

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I'm sorry, I don't have any experience with either one. I would choose the one that gives you the most power honestly. Can yet find any user reviews on either amp? See wick people that own them have to say.
In my opinion, if it's from a reputable company, fits your power and install needs, and is affordable for your budget, rock it!
The passive crossovers will eat a little power by design, so having as much as you can will help there... Obviously not going 500 watt crazy though. Lol
Also, something else to look at is the amps x-over section. It's nice having a good one, you never know what your needs will be down the road.
What was your reasoning behind picking them, if I may ask?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I'm sorry, I don't have any experience with either one. I would choose the one that gives you the most power honestly. Can yet find any user reviews on either amp? See wick people that own them have to say.
In my opinion, if it's from a reputable company, fits your power and install needs, and is affordable for your budget, rock it!
The passive crossovers will eat a little power by design, so having as much as you can will help there... Obviously not going 500 watt crazy though. Lol
Also, something else to look at is the amps x-over section. It's nice having a good one, you never know what your needs will be down the road.
What was your reasoning behind picking them, if I may ask?

well to be honest i just found them for decent pricing and they have alot of power for what they are. one has a high rms but has a lower max power? and the other one has a lower rms but higher max power? if that makes sense but the one with

MB Quart Q4.150 #1


:power Specifications - Full Range Channels


-RMS Power @ 4 ohms

150 watts x 4 channels


-RMS Power @ 2 ohms

220 watts x 4 channels


-RMS Power @ 1 ohm

N/A


-Bridged RMS Power

440 watts x 2 channels



-Peak Power Output

440 watts x 4 channels



:Amplifier Specifications


-Amplifier Class

AB


-Number of Channels

4


-Total Peak Power Output

1760 watts


-Total RMS Power Output

880 watts


-Maximum Input Gauge Size

4 AWG


-Minimum Impedance Unbridged

2 ohms


-Minimum Impedance Bridged

4 ohms


-THD at Rated RMS Power

0.05%


-Speaker Level Inputs

No


-Preamp Outputs

2 pairs


-Built-in Crossover

Low-pass (LP)
High-pass (HP)
Full (AP)


-High-Pass Crossover Frequency

20 - 45,000 Hz


-Low-Pass Crossover Frequency

40 - 45,000 Hz


-Subsonic Filter

N/A


-Signal-to-Noise Ratio

90 dB


-Channel Separation

80 dB


-Bass Boost

0 - 12 dB


-Bass/Gain Remote

No


-Fan Cooled

No


-Fuse Rating

70A x 2


-CEA-2006 Compliant

Yes


-Parts Warranty Duration

1 year


-Labor Warranty Duration

1 year






MB Quart ONX4.125 #2



:power Specifications - Full Range Channels


-RMS Power @ 4 ohms

125 watts x 4 channels


-RMS Power @ 2 ohms

250 watts x 4 channels


-RMS Power @ 1 ohm

N/A


-Bridged RMS Power

500 watts x 2 channels


-Peak Power Output

1000 watts x 2 channels






:Amplifier Specifications


-Amplifier Class

AB


-Number of Channels

4


-Total Peak Power Output

2000 watts


-Total RMS Power Output

1000 watts


-Maximum Input Gauge Size

4 AWG


-Minimum Impedance Unbridged

2 ohms


-Minimum Impedance Bridged

4 ohms


-THD at Rated RMS Power

0.05%


-Speaker Level Inputs

No


-Preamp Outputs

1 pair


-Built-in Crossover

Low-pass (LP)
High-pass (HP)
Full (AP)


-High-Pass Crossover Frequency

60 - 13,000 Hz


-Low-Pass Crossover Frequency

30 - 250 Hz


-Subsonic Filter

N/A


-Signal-to-Noise Ratio

>92 dB


-Channel Separation

>80 dB


-Bass Boost

0 - 12 dB


-Bass/Gain Remote

No


-Fan Cooled

No


-Fuse Rating

40A x 3


-CEA-2006 Compliant

Yes



:Warranty and Return Policy


-Return Policy

Standard Return Policy


-Parts Warranty Duration

1 year


-Labor Warranty Duration

1 year
 

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Don't worry about max, just focus on rms. Lot of hype and possible misdirectIon in some manufacturer's max specs.

Another option is that price range, would be the ppI phantom series. I was looking at them before I stumbled on to a good deal. Good power, small size, class D so a little easier on your electrical system. Some good talk on here about them. But, there are many options out there, that's a good thing, but also frustrating when your trying to decide. Lol
 

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I can't really say which amp would be better. 125wrms from an amp is plenty for the rms rating on your speakers, you have some room there to send a clean signal to your speakers up to their recommended rms.

Don't forget your HU can clip aswell as your amp. Do a search on setting the gains properly, or youtube it, loads of vids about it. An audio shop/installer will have the equipment to do it properly so you get the most from your setup without damaging anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Don't worry about max, just focus on rms. Lot of hype and possible misdirectIon in some manufacturer's max specs.

Another option is that price range, would be the ppI phantom series. I was looking at them before I stumbled on to a good deal. Good power, small size, class D so a little easier on your electrical system. Some good talk on here about them. But, there are many options out there, that's a good thing, but also frustrating when your trying to decide. Lol
this is very true and i am know to be pick with these things ha. but i believe i was looking at them amps already! the two i have to choose from have so many good qualities one has that th eother doesnt, it makes it hard thats why i would like some one who knows there amps and type r speakers to just tell me what they would get if they were in my shoes and so far its 50/50 from the opinions! so i open for discution
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I can't really say which amp would be better. 125wrms from an amp is plenty for the rms rating on your speakers, you have some room there to send a clean signal to your speakers up to their recommended rms.

Don't forget your HU can clip aswell as your amp. Do a search on setting the gains properly, or youtube it, loads of vids about it. An audio shop/installer will have the equipment to do it properly so you get the most from your setup without damaging anything.
yes i dont know how much i trust the audio places around here though lol. but i will be getting a pioneer double din with this instal i believe its the AVH P4300DVD or something like that if that helps out with what your saying
 

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To be honest no one can really tell you what amp to get, its your choice! A couple of days research looking at forums like this and others and you will learn a lot and be able to make an informed decision on the amp and how to set it up properly to protect your investment.

Good luck!
 
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