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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been playing around for awhile trying to get a decent sub stage in my boat. Generally in a car I will use 1 10". This wasn't enough because of all the noise and open area. I put in a second 10, corner loaded, ported tried other various suggestions. Still not really getting what I want out of it, but improved some.

I am using some old eclipse titanium cone subs, forgot the model number years ago. Sub amp is a sundown 1500d that runs about 900 at 2 ohm and 1600 or so at 1 ohm. It also has an old nakamichi deck, legatia L6 and a milbert amp running the HATs.

My idea was to increase displacement, maybe even go with a single 18. What I am looking for is a sealed setup that has good transient response to keep up with metal. Doesn't mud out to droaning. Just a nice solid musical setup. Available space will be about 6 cubes. Open to your ideas. Budget will be in the 350-400 range. Not really up on today's subs. Just want to get 1 or 2 that sound good and have decent output. Looked at diycable, but it looks like they have downsized and no longer sell the subs.
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It's really hard to get a good sub stage in a boat. That's why most people just port fairly high and live with it. I'd do a couple sealed 15's like a pair of Fi ssd's or maybe call the local shops to see what they've done in boats. No matter what you do you'll still have the problem of people from a mile away hearing more bass than you are.
 

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I currently run three subs in my boat. I have two 10W6's in a ported box and the other is a 10w5 infinate baffle. The 10W6's are run off of a MHD750.1 and the 10W5 off of a J250.1.

The 10W6's are in a storage compartment and the 10W5 is in the open cabin area of the boat. Overall, its really impressive. It has tones of bass and doesn't even loss the impact while underway at higher speeds.

You can get good bass on a boat but my opinion is more subs of less displacement is better than one of larger. This also allows the bass to be placed in different areas of the boat.
 

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I am using some old eclipse titanium cone subs....
There's your problem.

I remember those things quite well; you'd send 1kW to them and they'd barely make some noise. For some reason, those subs just are not very loud.

I'd do something along the lines of a W3, an ID, or a host of other mid-line subs and install them as far forward as you can. If the sub is mounted outside of the cabin, or near the exit, you're basically trying to pressurize the Earth's atmosphere. Not gonna happen with a pair of 10" woofers...

Placement as far forward in the cabin and using more efficient woofers are what I'd shoot for. Those Eclipse subs are very deep, limiting where they can be installed, and take GOBS of power to make some noise.
 

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Are you looking for sub bass while the boat is at full tilt or just sitting in the water?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Underway is where I'm having the problem. In the cabin it's fine. I actually just use a home theater unit with a single 50 watt 6.5" sub in there.
They are up in the front of the cabin under the bed. That was the loudest location I could find. It is an inboard with silencers in the headers and the exhaust exits under water. I sound deadened the engine cover and compartment so there is pretty well no engine noise. At about 15 or 20 and above the prop noise, spray and wind overpower the bass. Up around 40-45mph the mids and highs still have a lot more than I need, but the subs may as well not even be there.
 

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I've done installs on a fair number of boats. The loudest was a Nautique Team 211 with 3 polk momo 12s sealed, receiving 900W. That was a ton of bass for a boat. The most moderate was a Crownline 275 with 2 JL W3s sealed, receiving 500W. The most surprising was a Tahoe Q5 (I think it was a Q5) with 2 Kicker Comp 8s running IB, receiving around 150W. It really depends on what kind of room you're willing to sacrifice and how much you're willing to spend.
 

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I did a lot of boats way back, none lately. We used a lot of 6x9 and especially 7x10s the extra midbass really helped no matter what else you did. In fact quad 7x10 were pretty impressive themselves. We did more IB 10/12s most of those were deep vee and didn't have the room or want the weight of boxes. If you run more of them they work better, say quad 10s or better. Did do some ported boxes that worked well. None of these systems were killer like some do now with sub towers and all that, the goal was maybe a good dance club system type sound as that is what they were used for mostly at the sandbar/etc. If possible you really don't want subs that take lots of power, you run your batteries dead too fast with huge amps....but up to you. Few wanted to add batteries that slows the boat down lol. If you mounted them right in the cockpit you would get good sound at speed until you stood up in the bolsters at 80mph.
 

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The JL marine subs in a IB setup would be my first choice...then next would a JL10w3 in a ported enclosure...if the subs don't blend in with the rest of the speakers then the whole system will sound like ****....so blending is key
 

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Yeah we did a lot of installs like this
Untitled Document

Except I would recommend you go large as possible with the speakers. Had one boat with two sets of 7x10 and 6.5 in the cuddy off the HU with a switch for the amp remote, it was a party just with those, bass was tight but enough of it. Back then kenwood had a nice 7x10 we used a lot of them. You have to think different for a boat, everyone laughs at the guys with two pair of 6x9 in the back of a car but it would work in a boat. You need a lot of sound, larger speakers are more efficient and make more bass/midbass you can't have too much of. You would never put twin 6.5 in the front of a car, but I bet they work nice in that boat.

Also when you do an install, try to make it replaceable and use standard size stuff if you can. Things can go to hell in a boat due to the conditions, expect if you use it a lot you may be replacing speakers sooner than in a car and maybe amps/etc. We used mostly auto equipment but this was only fresh water and the boats were not slipped that much or at most for 3 months. I'd say rain in the boat and pounding waves were the worse things. You have to secure things really well, but we ran Lake Michigan a lot it can be nasty especially when you go fast like we did.

One other thing is if you put some speakers up high you will hear those more outside the boat, usually the front ones. If you listen outside the boat all the time try to put all/most of the speakers higher up. Sitting in the boat it does not matter as much sometimes they sound better lower. Something like the 7x10 can work nice under the seat where they put the 10s, they will fill out the sound in the boat and make good bass under there if you do/don't have subs. 6x9 or 8s could also work, you need at least one set of large speakers if you don't do a sub, and should anyway, but 6.5 could be made to work just not as easily and you would have to use subs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I can't find the camera. You can go to the gallery and see what the inside is (slide 8/18). I have them in the front compartment up under the bed. The little door is not the size of the compartment, it gives access to the sides and front. The usable area is 20"hx38"wx20"d. Would have to cut a little off of that for excursion so figuring around 6 or a little more instead of 7.22 cu ft. I have to store other things in there so can't really go bigger than that for the enclosure. The motor and charging system is the same as in a car. It has a 250 amp alt and have it ran with 2/0 wire and dual batteries. If the subs get wet that means it has sunk, so no worries with using marine speakers. Sorry for the lack of descriptives. Thanks for the links.
http://www.bajamarine.com/outlaw/23outlaw.htm
Thanks
 

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Yeah we did a lot of installs like this
Untitled Document

Except I would recommend you go large as possible with the speakers. Had one boat with two sets of 7x10 and 6.5 in the cuddy off the HU with a switch for the amp remote, it was a party just with those, bass was tight but enough of it. Back then kenwood had a nice 7x10 we used a lot of them. You have to think different for a boat, everyone laughs at the guys with two pair of 6x9 in the back of a car but it would work in a boat. You need a lot of sound, larger speakers are more efficient and make more bass/midbass you can't have too much of. You would never put twin 6.5 in the front of a car, but I bet they work nice in that boat.

Also when you do an install, try to make it replaceable and use standard size stuff if you can. Things can go to hell in a boat due to the conditions, expect if you use it a lot you may be replacing speakers sooner than in a car and maybe amps/etc. We used mostly auto equipment but this was only fresh water and the boats were not slipped that much or at most for 3 months. I'd say rain in the boat and pounding waves were the worse things. You have to secure things really well, but we ran Lake Michigan a lot it can be nasty especially when you go fast like we did.

One other thing is if you put some speakers up high you will hear those more outside the boat, usually the front ones. If you listen outside the boat all the time try to put all/most of the speakers higher up. Sitting in the boat it does not matter as much sometimes they sound better lower. Something like the 7x10 can work nice under the seat where they put the 10s, they will fill out the sound in the boat and make good bass under there if you do/don't have subs. 6x9 or 8s could also work, you need at least one set of large speakers if you don't do a sub, and should anyway, but 6.5 could be made to work just not as easily and you would have to use subs.
I like the way you think in terms of using large drivers. If I were doing a boat system, I'd be running arrays of 6x9s, or 8s for sure.
 
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