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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hi,

so finally after 2 years now i got a brand new car for myself and i have decided to put in a good SQ system. The car is a 2011 Honda City i-vtec (check out Honda car India for more info)... So the products mentioned below are the ones i have selected (so far):


Head Unit: Pioneer AVH-P4390DVD (Checkout Pioneer India Webby for more info)


Speakers: 2 x Focal Polyglass 165 VRS (front & rear)

Speaker Amp: Focal Solid 4 (what sort of wiring would you recommend?)


Subwoofer: A single Alpine SWX-1243D (Dual 4 Ohms VC)


Subwoofer Amp: Alpine PDX 1.1000 (will this run the sub at its full potential 1000w RMS??) <4 Gauge Streetwires/ Rockford wiring sufficient? Which of the 2 would you choose?)

Capacitor: 2 Farad (what brand is the best??)

Dynamat Sound Damping - Whole car


& other misc. small stuff.


Will running the above equipment on a stock Alternator, battery etc be wise or should i upgrade? I figured as its a new car it wont matter but will it?? Also is the big 3 mandatory for this setup??

Also, is the Alpine PDX amp sufficient for the sub as i want at least the rated power (if not more) out of the sub itself... will it do it?? if not, what other options would you recommended?

What sort of Box would you recommend for the subwoofer as i mostly listen to House Music and R&B.. i want it to be loud (but not over the top SPL style) as i'm looking for good SQ to go with decent loudness.. Will the box dimensions in the Owners manual do the job??

Please help/ advise as i don't want to be pulling out my hair once i get all this in there... I wanna get it right the first time.... Thank You!
 

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I would ditch the rear speakers and put that money towards something better for the front. The krx2's are a very nice choice :D
 

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Streetwires or RF are both good for wiring. 4 gauge for sub amp & 8 gauge for highs should be fine. You probably won't get much benefit out of a capacitor, but I'm not going to get into another debate about that.

The specs for the sub enclosure are probably going to work for you, but if you don't mind using more space and given your taste in music, you would probably enjoy a ported alignment more than sealed.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Streetwires or RF are both good for wiring. 4 gauge for sub amp & 8 gauge for highs should be fine. You probably won't get much benefit out of a capacitor, but I'm not going to get into another debate about that.

The specs for the sub enclosure are probably going to work for you, but if you don't mind using more space and given your taste in music, you would probably enjoy a ported alignment more than sealed.


thanks for that... btw is the amp sufficient enough for the sub?? thats what im extremely concerned about... any overheating issues with it?? also what oyu think about the electrical system... should i worry or it'll handle the power demand... just asking... new cars can take the abuse abit right?
 

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the pdx will do just fine on the type X. they were pretty much made for one another.

i used to run a pdx and 12" type x and its an awesome combo.


personally i would say, drop the cap. drop the rears. put in a kickass front stage and give them lots of power.


i've also run the polyglass series. and granted they are nice, i did not fully enjoy them. a fraction of the midbass my hertz offers me now and no more ear piercing highs.

go up a level or two in focal or check out some nice hertz offerings.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the pdx will do just fine on the type X. they were pretty much made for one another.

i used to run a pdx and 12" type x and its an awesome combo.


personally i would say, drop the cap. drop the rears. put in a kickass front stage and give them lots of power.


i've also run the polyglass series. and granted they are nice, i did not fully enjoy them. a fraction of the midbass my hertz offers me now and no more ear piercing highs.

go up a level or two in focal or check out some nice hertz offerings.

thanks for the reply dude... you really helped me drop all the tension about the sub and amp combo big time... one question... i searched online everywhere but cannot find any info on how much total power does the PDX actually put out (peak)... also please throw in a couple of suggestions for the front stage (if i'm to drop the rear speakers)... which would be good and what amp should i be using with them for optimal performance and extreme SQ...

Also, comparatively wont the bass overpower the vocals with just 2 speakers in front and a massive sub setup at the back??
 

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no clue what the peak may be on those amps. it's pretty irrelevant though, its the rms that counts. its a perfect match for the sub though.
my pdx showed just under 1200rms @4ohm on the birthsheet.

and yes if you don't have a nice front end, it will fall behind.
personally I would recommend Hertz MLK-165. they pop up in the classifieds for decent deals every so often.
however speakers are very much a personal preference thing. the best thing for you to do is go out and listen to some high end sets in person.

If you like focal, check out their K2 series, a huge step up from the polyglass.

I have no idea what your budget is, but it seems pretty good if you planned on getting two polyglass sets.

as far as an amp? don't decide now. find a set of speakers you love, and then buy the amp accordingly. choose something with a little more than needed power, good build quality. like anything, more often than not, you get what you pay for. so with anyof this stuff try and stay away from companies boasting outrageous claims and numbers.
 

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If you're wanting SQ...go with a different sub. Drop the rears and pick up better components like others have said.


Possible Sub Choices:
1. FI Q
2. ID Q or IDMax
3. JL w6
4. Shiva (in june)
5. SSA Icon
etc..


Also, don't go with dynamat and mass load the whole damn car. That's not the point of deadening. Pick up some CLD tiles from Sound Deadener Showdown or Damplifier Pro from Second Skin Audio and cover 25-40% of the car panels, trunk, and wherever else you'd like. Then put some Mass Loaded Vinyl (SDS) or Overkill (SSA) over your panels as a sound barrier. Much more effective and will be cheaper than buying 100+ sqft of Dynamat and doing the whole car. Let alone that adds lots of weight and with today's gas prices, no one wants to be doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
thanks for the insights.. i have decided to go in for the Focal K2 Power 165 KRX2 for the frontstage... i think ill keep the rear as its is (no speakers) as i drive alone without people in the back so i too don't see the point. About the sound damping... my local car audio installer is gonna do it his way (he is one of the best in the city quite reputed for his work)... ill leave him to it but i get your point which is spot on...

The guy told me a Focal Solid 4 bridged will be more than enough for the KRX2's... what do you guys think??

i have been looking at Audison amps as well (LRx 3.1k in particular) which I think will do the job just right... but the downside is, they have no Authorised Dealers in my Country... 1 Audison LRx 3.1k = PDX 1.1000 + Focal solid 4 (costing me almost the same amount after adding shipping and customs)
 

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thanks for the insights.. i have decided to go in for the Focal K2 Power 165 KRX2 for the frontstage... i think ill keep the rear as its is (no speakers) as i drive alone without people in the back so i too don't see the point. About the sound damping... my local car audio installer is gonna do it his way (he is one of the best in the city quite reputed for his work)... ill leave him to it but i get your point which is spot on...

The guy told me a Focal Solid 4 bridged will be more than enough for the KRX2's... what do you guys think?? Enough power? Yes

i have been looking at Audison amps as well (LRx 3.1k in particular) which I think will do the job just right... but the downside is, they have no Authorised Dealers in my Country... 1 Audison LRx 3.1k = PDX 1.1000 + Focal solid 4 (costing me almost the same amount after adding shipping and customs)
Go with the LRx3.1k, you won't be disappointed. I'm using one too

The KRX2 are better off powered by the LRx than by the Solid 4 IMO.

Kelvin
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Go with the LRx3.1k, you won't be disappointed. I'm using one too

The KRX2 are better off powered by the LRx than by the Solid 4 IMO.

Kelvin

but no warranty .... also i cant find it anywhere online... its like it doesn't exist.. anyone know any reputed (trusted) online retailers who sell original (no grey or fake stuff) and ship worldwide??

How much do they cost if you go to buy them locally from an authorized dealer in the states??
LRx 3.1k
LRx 5.1k
 
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