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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone new to audio and new to the forum. I have a few questions about a sub box that I am planning on making. I have just purchased my first sub and built a sealed box around 1.15 cu ft. I am very pleased with the sound but am interested in hearing it in a ported box. Here is where i have questions. The t/s parameters are different in the booklet that came with the sub and what the manufacture has online. I'm guessing I should go with the booklet specs. The booklet also lists specs for building a ported box but I have read quite a few posts saying that a custom box is better. If so, how? Because sound is so subjective it seems the only way to find the best box would be to make as many as possible and pick the one you like the sound of.
 

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Based off the EBP, that sub is geared towards a sealed enclosure. I get an insanely low 18.93 from the T/S Parameters on Boss' website, and 38.55 using the specs listed in the manual. Either way, sealed seems to be what the sub is designed to operate best inside.

Ported is recommended to be 1.71CUFT tuned to 34Hz. A custom enclosure merely means that it is built to the specs of the sub or one's desires, not a mass produced enclosure that was built with no particular sub's parameters in mind. You may be hard pressed finding a prebuilt 1.71cuft enclosure tuned to 34Hz, so that is where the term "custom enclosure" comes into play.

One can plot the response of the sub in various enclosures using programs like WinISD, which can give a person an idea as to weather the sub will perform more to their liking, but yeah, what a projected response and output says, doesn't account for a vehicles acoustics or one's personal tastes and hearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That looks to be about what I got and why I made a sealed box. Why does boss list dimensions for a ported box if it wouldn't sound good? And would that mean it will sound boomy in a ported box?
 

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To market to more people. Given the sub looks to be MUCH better suited to sealed applications, I would suspect it'd be similar to some of the older Kickers from back in the day when placed in a ported enclosure. Years ago, most Kicker subs had a low EBP which suggested sealed to be optimum, yet lots of people, even Kicker, placed them in ported. What resulted from such? The infamous one note wonder as many have come to know it. Kicker subs were damn loud over a very narrow range of frequencies and IMO had very sloppy output that was almost unbearable.

Still, many people seemed to love them. I'd suspect similar of this Boss sub.

Not sure how much help I could be with explaining WinISD and what you are seeing. I myself am probably just barely able to grasp most of the information it offers.
 

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Such could result in an unwanted response curve, drastically reduced power handling before Xmax is reached, or other issues.

I mean you could tune the enclosure that low, no one's going to stop you, but I'm certain that's beyond the abilities of the driver to play so low effectively. The sub probably has a roll off that's fairly high, probably in the low 40's. Tuning as low as you are saying may give a slight bump in the extreme lows, but it could create a noticeable gap were the sub flat out struggles to play.

Ported setups are really a weak point of mine, so I feel it's best to let a more educated in the matter member poke holes in the idea, or back it up, should such actually be a good idea (though I really have my doubts).
 

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Is there any reason it couldnt be tuned lower like say 25 hz to improve SQ?
at that point you're losing the benefits of a ported enclosure while taking up a ton of space (low tuning = longer port) in a car, imho
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So is a bigger amp the only way to get slightly better output with the same sq? Or would different sized sealed boxes have desirable effects? Because i like the way it sounds im just curious if there is something better.
 

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A "bigger amp" probably won't do you any good. The sub is over rated at 500RMS, probably won't even take 250RMS without being pushed to it's thermal limits.

A larger sealed enclsoure usually allows a sub to dig a little deeper and play flatter, but you loose power handling and usually some of the overall output abilites. If louder is what you want, "go with a different sub", would be my best advice. It's a $30 sub, one can't expect too much.

You could go smaller on the enclosure and that can allow the sub to handle a little more power and may even increase it's output at it's peak level, but it will cost you some of the strength of the lower frequencies.

Ported should get you noticeably more output, but at the cost of cargo space and the output produces will probably loose some clarity, accuracy, and responsiveness.
 

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I only ever found one sub that didn't benefit from a properly built ported enclosure. That was a tc sounds sub. I didn't look up info. Assuming Weigel's info is accurate I also agree with his conclusions. That sub is not worth the trouble of building a ported enclosure. I think it would still benefit some. But not enough. If that sounds fine to you leave it. If you want something more, get a new sub. If you just want to tinker. Build a ported box tuned to 36. Right in the middle of that sub's sound happiness and loud. Bigger sealed will make it more boomy, and smaller wants more power with a slight gain in accuracy. I am no expert in box design I have a friend that is an expert that guides me in design. I have however built lots of boxes and have some understanding of what enclosure changes do to a sub vs specs.
 

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Guys, it's a Boss CXX12. It's probably not going to be the last word in SQ.

Here's my suggestion - if you're using an EQ, then identify the lowest band in the EQ between 30 Hz and 50 Hz. Build the ported box using Boss' suggested volume, but tune it to the same frequency as the EQ's band you've identified (e.g. 30 Hz). Then use the EQ to trim the output to your liking.
 

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Some years ago when I used to play around with inexpensive drivers from manufacturers that were known to give erroneous data i made a promise to myself. Never build, much less model, and enclosure without extracting the true parameters first! Can't tell you how many countless times I've tested drivers only to come up with something totally off (and most of the time opposite) compared to company specs... if given! If you want to get it right or the best that it can be within it's limitations, then extract the specs.
 
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